Question about 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

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Truck stalls when on rough roads

I purchased this truck new in 05 and maintained it by the book. it has never been monkey'd around with and is 100% STOCK. The first time it died was back in febuary in a rough gravel road construction zone when I was coming home a gig around 3am. I called a tow service, but before they got there the truck started and I drove it for another 2 months with no problems at all. then yesterday the truck died when I got on a road that was rough as a cob. it eventualy restarted, but died again 2 miles farther down the road. I towed it home and pulled the bed off and changed the fuel pump assembly with a new unit. then tonight I was driving on a rough gravel road again, and it died and wouldnt restart. I left my wife with the truck and walked home to get my welding rig and tow it home. while I was walking my wife gave it a try and it started, she got home about the same time I was walking into my driveway. this is very stressfull, I bought a $350.00 fuel pump did all that work, and still not fixed... anybody have any advice here... Im about to go trade this thing in in a 350Z or something...

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  • 75 Answers

The truck is probably stalling on rough roads because the fuel pump float is not staying on the surface of the gasoline in the tank. Therefore, it is taking on air and interrupting the flow of fuel temporarily. It may be sticking a little and operating too slowly.
The fuel pump is inside your gas tank but can be removed and replaced by you if you are skilled enough.

Posted on May 20, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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JULIANFIX
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SOURCE: 2001 chevy blazer

Thats exactly what it is , have the same problem with my ASTRO VAN , replace twice in 2 years average. hope this helps AJ

Posted on May 26, 2008

fixincars
  • 335 Answers

SOURCE: 1991 Chevy Lumina 3.1 Sedan Starting/Dying Problems

Ok this was all after the car was all warmed up how far can you go from a cold start until it "dies:?
I want to suspect a crank sensor or ignition module just because of the symptoms if nothing happens until the egine gets hot ,typical of a failing crank sensor andignition module, always replace them togother.
But there is one more culprit, the catalytic Converter, see they break up inside and over time the catalyist bounces around and becomes a ball, on acceleration the presssure of the exhaust pushes the "ball' of caytlist into the exhaust pipe opening restricting it until it shuts off the car. You pull over the pressure goes away the "ball" falls back into the cat, you start again and it starts all over again. I would hve the cat tested and you can do a test yourself hit the cat on the bottom with a hammer and if you hear some rattling inside when you hit it yhe catalist is broken and is likely your problem.
If this information help you please leave me a good rating
www.aceautomotive1.com
Please contact me if I can be of any further help in tis matter
the above website is my own experiences in my automotive diagnostic shop for 14 years check out the FAQ and BLOG I believe your symptoms are listed there

Posted on Aug 11, 2008

  • 47 Answers

SOURCE: Lumina Starting/Dying Problem

this could be one of the two things that I am thinking it is...it is either the throttle position sensor or it si the fuel pump getting too hot and cooling off slightly enough to restart the engine. Both are related but separate systems. The throttle position sensor is on the side of the throttle body and it merely tells the computer where the throttle plate is in the throttle body to create the proper fuel mixture for the injectors. The fule pump ios loccated insid eof the fuel tank it either runs or it doesnt usually. If it gets hot it is about to go completely out all together.

Posted on Dec 07, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 1989 Chevy Truck 350 Stalled Wont Start After I filled Gas Fuel

You need to check the fuel pressure to the TBI. I just fought one which was doing the same thing. I pulled the fuel tank to replace the fuel pump. It turned out to be the short hose from the fuel pump to the steel line coming out of the tank. It had a split in it so I wasn't getting enough fuel pressure. Some places show two pumps available. One you can pull the unit and replace just the pump. The other the pump and sender are all one unit. Hopefully you have the first one. The second is around $300.

The easiest way to get to the top of the tank is to pull the front 6 bolts mounting the bed and loosen the back two. Take the three screws from the filler neck and unhook the rear axle vent tube. You can then take an engine hoist and lift the front of the box. You can get right to the pump and gauge assemble in the top of the tank. Most times, this works easier than emptying the fuel tank and removing it.

Posted on Dec 18, 2008

SOURCE: I have an 04 Silverado with the 4L60E. The

I would be interested to know why you kept pulling the tranny. Its possible you lost the prgram in the PCM. You may need a reflash. Where there codes. Or you may have a bad torque converter or trans oil pump.

Posted on Jul 15, 2009

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