Question about Cars & Trucks
How good a mechanic are you? Do you have the tools?
When you crank it, does it sem to spin real free with no wump wump sound? Then it's likely busted timing belt.
The 2.4 Liter engine is an interference motor, meaning if the timing belt breaks, the intake and or the exhaust valves in the engine hit the top of the piston and damage the valves. When this happens the valves are bent enough that they will not close tight and the engine will not start,, now it may sound like it wants to start because there maybe only a few valves that are bent, and in the cylinders that have the bent valves there is no compression, but in the other cylinders the valves are working normal and these cylinders may try to start like normal. The only trouble is the only way to correct this problem is to remove the cylinder head and have a machine shop inspect cylinder head and replace the valves that are damaged. The top of the pistons that are hit by the valves should also be inspected as pistons maybe damaged as well. You can verify a no compression condition by removing spark plugs and with a compression gauge, check the compression of each cylinder, the ones with no compression more than likely will be the ones that have the bent valve problem, on most four cylinder engines there will be two cylinders without compression, the other two cylinders may have a normal compression reading.
Posted on May 11, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The timing belt should not have been affwcted. Sounds like you have everything chk'd and accounted for.. The best way to chk the cam and crank is a compression test.
Posted on May 30, 2009
i have had the same problem at times. my car would start and then shut off. but i found that i needed oil and check my oil and it was a quater low put in some oil and everything went fine i notices that everytime the oil is low the same thing happens also depending on the position of the car being park meaning that if you are in a down hill position or up hill position i will do the same. so you have to accelarate for 1 minute to have the oil go up. i hope this works
Posted on Jun 18, 2009
your camshaft position sensor may be going bad. usually with an old car it tend to go bad. The top of sensor can be covered or gumed up with grease, oil, dirt and cause it not to detect the flywheel turning. Camshaft sensor send single to your DME to deliver fuel and sparks to you engine. If camshaft sensor goes bad it will seem like your fuel pump and ignition coil is bad even-though they are good. Faulty camshaft sensor may caused you to have this issue and problems such as sometime it run good and all of sudden it shut off, sometime its start good and others time is doesn't start. Once the sensor goes bad, the car will not run. There are two Sensor one for the fuel and one for the sparks, I would replace both sensor because soon or later if it will go bad, it will leave you stranded although if you replace one you might as well replace the other. Check the coil and test using the light or volts tester to see you getting power to the coil, next check if your fuel pump is working, fuel pump will not stay running unless the sensor sense the flywheel is turning from your camshaft sensor. next time when your car does not start, check if you getting spark and fuel. Both sensor will cost you around 130 bucks. assuming your DME, fuel pump, coil, wires, etc... is working. keep me update and I will try to walk you through. btw stop by at any auto part store and pick yourself up Haynes auto repair book for your car, its a great tools and investment to have for your next repair work if you plan to keep your car and get to know the heart of it. good luck and i hope that help some.
Posted on Jul 25, 2009
If the data link is not talking to the computer check your ground at the computer and at the data link connector to see if the computer is even alive ground pin 3 on DLC with the key off then turn key to the run position if it flashes the check engine codes record them, if no engine light, does the engine light come on when you turn the key on then go off? if not, check fuses if not check power for pin on computer, if it has power you have a bad computer. But TEST THE GROUNDS IT IS THE BIGGEST FAILURE For these rigs or any manufacture. check that you have power also at the DLC too. if not you need a digital ohm meter and a subscription to http:///.www.alldatadiy.com and start reading the campaigns on that vechile for computer and trouble tree for dead DLC and computer. I don't have that subscription or I could tell you more where to look, if you need anymore help let me know. Also if the crank sensor could cause it not to run the fuel pump but so can the cam sensor. You need to find out if the computer gets it's pulse for the pump at the computer if it does then you need to test them both. There are three wires a ground a colored power wire and a wire to go to the computer you can test these sensors with a meter to see if there is a pulse to each. sometimes the fuel pump gets it's signal from the coil pack so it's important to have the subscription, you can do a search for each item and test them as needed and has a wiring diagram.
Posted on Jul 27, 2009
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