Question about Cars & Trucks
My Mazda Bravo b2600 1997 2.6 ltr petrol 5 speed 4x4 has a 48 ltr fuel tank and I use to get 480km, Now I'm lucky to get 340km from a full tank. the engine has almost done 200,oookm is this normal? I'm way over due for a dynotune, I the last time I had it serviced, it didnt make much difference on fuel ecconomy? I'm mainly concerned that there might be problems with my engine, In that having just a service won't pick up. are there common problems with my modal of Car for its age that I can fix and replace myself before having it Dyno tuned, so as to save some $$$. Kind regards Nick G
Posted by Anonymous on
20 years... 200,000 km is not excessive... The models we have here in the USA... DO NOT MATCH your "bravo"...
They do that to keep us apart... and all 7 of my steering wheels are on the wrong side ... (down f/10... getting old here
(even the Austin Healey BJ8 & Jaguar V12 convertible)).
but we (USA) do have A B2300, ( also B3000 & 4000 )
F2.5 "gas" engine... FUEL Injected (see injector below)
If your engine pulls and idles SMOOTHLY you might
consider saving ALL your dyno-tune $$$...
and taking over the "service" yourself.
We have parts stores & muffler shop that read
our CODES for FREE... (just watch your wallet).
There is BIG $$$ to be saved if you pay attention to scheduled FLUID & FILTER changes... Particularly RADIATOR, CLUTCH & BRAKE.
I'm suggesting for the price of you "tune" you can
buy a compression gauge, stethoscope, torque-wrench, some SPARK Plugs & be ready for that TRANSMISSION JACK...
when the clutch wears out...
We don't do transmissions WITHOUT a tranny-jack
BECAUSE... the I/O (input/output) bearing will get
sacrificed when the input shaft is left holding the
ENTIRE WEIGHT of the transmission
(IMPROPER HANDLING = lost money).
Always chock your wheels...
Pressure test your cooling system, change your wipers...
check brake pad wear... & never sleep with anyone crazier than yourself (floss teeth).
My experience with the average "DEALER"... was
FIX one... BREAK two.
I simply couldn't afford it...!!
1997 MAZDA B2300 2 3L L4 Fuel Injector RockAuto
1997, 3 liter V6
1997 MAZDA B3000 3 0L V6 Fuel Injector RockAuto
Posted on Apr 15, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This problem sounds like ablown head gasket, this would make the oil mix in with the gas and would result in discolored smoke out of the exhaust pipe.
Posted on Jan 31, 2009
for the most part this information is under the hood on a small sticker call your local parts store if the sticker is not there and they be able to tell you wish you the best of luck Michigan Man.
Posted on Nov 27, 2009
SOURCE: on a 2001 mazda bravo
Without knowing which diesel engine you have, I'll have to guess that you have a 2.5L (B2500) - Note: the more detailed information you give us, the more accurate our answers will be :-)
As a general rule, cambelts (with tensioner assembly & seals) have a limited life and should always be replaced every 100,000km, or sometimes earlier depending on manufacturer. The reasoning behind this is that most engines will suffer major internal damage if the cambelt snaps (this is what is meant by 'Interference' engines). As the engine has to be opened up to carry out this service, it can be a costly maintenance. For this reason, it is also common to replace the waterpump at the same time (to avoid having to open up the engine again) as waterpumps have been known to fail beyond 100,000km.
The good news....if you DO have a 2.5L (B2500) engine, then this engine is a NON interference engine - which means, if the cambelt did snap, your engine would not suffer any internal damage, compared to interference engines.
Hope this helps.....
"If this has helped you in any way, please rate this solution"
Posted on May 07, 2011
SOURCE: mazda bravo blowing white smoke
With regards to the above problem, I have just recently experienced the exact same thing with a 98 Mazda Bravo b2500 (this is a diesel).The symptoms were after driving over some corrugated dirt roads the vehicle would not rev over 2000 rpm and at that point would blow heaps of white smoke and misfire, but would idle beautifully and rev smoothly up to the 2000 rpm. Also noticed when vehicle was cold it would drive good for about 5-10 mins then symptoms would start again.
Fuel filters were changed, sediment trap cleaned,different fuel tried and checked all lines and system for air entry, problem still persisted. While checking injector pump lift pump pressure I noticed that the pressure would drop right off at the 2000 rpm, maybe a lift pump problem?? After consulting the workshop manual I found there is a small stainless steel thimble filter under the injector pump fuel line input union bolt, held in place with a small spring. Pulled this out to have a look and it was full of crud, cleaned it all up and put back together and have a guess what......goes like a brand new truck!!
Posted on Jul 09, 2011
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