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Iv an isuzu nqr 500 freighter truck,it has problems w e brakes iv changed wheel cylinder kits bt cnt get brakes nd e brake booster warning is on wt cld it b

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: 94 S-10 Chev Brake problem

This is an easy fix un plug the abs sensor from spindle abs light will come on but the brakes will work only abs will not

Posted on Nov 24, 2008

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SOURCE: 1998 chevy s10- brake pedal goes to the floor-

Did you put fresh fluid in the master cylinder? I really think you still have air in the lines. To bleed manually, start with the bleeder the greatest distance from the master cylinder, car running, helper pushing down about half way on brake pedal and releasing 3 times, on 3rd time, holding pedal down to half way depressed point while you open the bleeder valve. Repeat until you are sure all air has been flushed out. Check master cyl reservoir level often, because if it gets low and you **** air into the system, you have to start all over again. Go to wheel next greatest distance from master cyl, repeat above, working your way to wheel closest to master cyl last.

Posted on Apr 12, 2009

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SOURCE: 1997 FORD F250 XLT 4WD - Had a hard brake pedal with hardly any brakes while standing on them. Replaced booster and wheel cylinders at same time now the pedal is mushy and no brakes.

They need to be bleed again all four wheels but your vacuum pump may be bad since diesels don't have vacuum then have to have a pump, check that the booster one way check valve is good if you can blow thew it both ways it's bad, to bleed start from the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder pump the brakes 5 times and hold down then open the bleed valve keep doing this until you get clear fluid out of each wheel once you have done that if it is still mushy and you know you have vacuum re bleed with engine running this will help push more out with power assist. most like the hard brake pedal had to do with no vacuum check out the pump. You may also have to reset the 2 way check valve if you need help with this let me know.

Posted on May 28, 2009

SOURCE: dash brake warning light keeps flashing. I just

The brake light is actuated by the float in the brake fluid resevoir. When the sensor travels down the light comes on. When the sensor travels or floats in the fluid the light goes off. Check to see that the brake fluid level is at the full line on the resevoir under thje hood. Most cars of this model use standard dot 3 fluid. Another thing that will turn on the brake light is if the parking brake is applied. Check to see if the park brake is locked in its fully released setting. Sometimes you have to pull the park brake pedal up as you pull the release lever to ensure it is up all the way. riding around with the park brake engaged will burn the rear brake shoes up in a very short time.

Posted on Nov 21, 2010

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2008 Isuzu NQR450 the ABS, Red! ASR warning lights come on the dash stay on. Just added a second bank of batteries so been disconnected. The brake system is fine. How to reset the system?


NQR
what country are you in. must we guess that?
you posted to a USA forum asking about NQR (no real them)
NQR is a chassis, class.
those errors, mean
  1. get car serviced, seems you are.
  2. read the manual on this car, read the chapter .
this?>



26216493-rywlqlkzcqfbld0wo0jnf5bp-5-0.jpg ours (USA) looks like this

af116d45-493e-4569-9c18-cec365dffb78.jpg

Jun 11, 2016 | Isuzu Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

ABS light on with warning sound and brakes heavy. Brake pads are new


It sounds like the master cylinder may have failed, check for brake fluid leaks at wheels also vacuum line to the brake booster

Apr 27, 2014 | Mitsubishi Montero Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I. change the pbrake booster on my 96 ford exploer and wen i put it drive the brake still go all the way to the floor


Brake booster just helps lessen the effort to stop. You either have air in your system or a leaking line \,or caliper cylinder or wheel cylinder, look along frame rails and the inside of tires or wheels after pumping and holding the brake pedal. If there is no leak your master brake cylinder is bad and fluid by passing the seals.

Oct 19, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

8 Answers

Changed calipers rotrs pads still no brake presure wont pump up to bleed air out of lines could master cylinder or booster be bad


Booster is okay, you have to bench bleed the MC, first. So, since it is installed, bleed it with a kit from the parts store, little plastic hoses screw in to the brake hose fittings, and put other end under fluid in reservoir. pump slowly, especially wait at end of release, for fluid to refill piston chamber....pump until no bubbles...

FROM THIS POINT you must not allow fluid in reservoir to go low, or start all over again....

Now bleed the brakes and you will eventually get pressure.

Mar 01, 2011 | 1998 Dodge Neon

4 Answers

I have an 06 jetta, 2.5l. does not have electronic parking brake. the brakes on all 4 wheel are dragging. you can open any bleeder and get a little squirt. wheels will spin freely. when you drive it again...


SOUND LIKE FAULTY ABS UNIT AND WHEEL SENSORS OR MASTER CYLINDER.THE MASTER CYLINDER PISTONS NOT RETURNING.RAISE THE REAR OF VECHICLE BLOCK FRONT WHEELS FROM MOVING.MAKE SURE PARKING BRAKE IS FULLY RELEASED SO YOUR BRAKE BRAKES NOT DRAGGING.THE BACK WHEELS SHOULD TURN WITH BRAKE RELEASED.IF NOT PARKING BRAKE NEEDS ADJUSTMENT.

Oct 29, 2010 | Volkswagen Jetta Cars & Trucks

5 Answers

Brake pedal is hard but brakes not very effective. booster holds vacuum. replaced booster check valve, no change. dash brake light stays on most of time but sometimes goes out for a while then comes back...


Check the brake fluid first.is it low or no brake fluid at all.is the brake fluid got dried up or leaked out. Sounds like the power brake booster is bad, that is what the master cylinder is bolted too. There is a rubber hose that has a plastic valve in it were it snaps into the booster, Pull that rubber hose out of the booster and off of the engine, Now the end that you took off the engine. You should be able to **** through the line, but not be able to blow through it. If you can then replace the valve, It is a one way valve.
If that is all right then hook hose back up to the engine and start engine, You should hear a major vacuum leak at the valve end, put you finger over the valve and it should stop making noise and engine should smooth out. If it don't the rubber hose must be leaking or the tube on the engine were the hose hooks to is stoped up.
Also check the master cylinder if power booster is replaced. If the brake light is coming and going check the brake light switch. check fig for the internal assembly parts:-- bdea807.gif

To check engine vacuum, connect a vacuum gauge to the supply hose that runs from the intake manifold to the booster. A low reading (below 16 inches) may indicate a hose leak or obstruction, a blockage in the exhaust system (plugged catalytic converter, crushed pipe, bad muffler, etc.), or a problem in the engine itself (manifold vacuum leak, bad valve, head gasket, etc.).
The condition of the diaphragm inside the booster is also important. If cracked, ruptured or leaking, it won't hold vacuum and can't provide much power assist. Leaks in the master cylinder can allow brake fluid to be siphoned into the booster, accelerating the demise of the diaphragm. So if there's brake fluid inside the vacuum hose, it's a good indication the master cylinder is leaking and needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Wetness around the back of the master cylinder would be another clue to this kind of problem.
To check the vacuum booster, pump the brake pedal with the engine off until you've bled off all the vacuum from the unit. Then hold the pedal down and start the engine. You should feel the pedal depress slightly as engine vacuum enters the booster and pulls on the diaphragm. No change? Then check the vacuum hose connection and engine vacuum. If okay, the problem is in the booster and the booster needs to be replaced.
Vacuum boosters also have an external one-way check valve at the hose inlet that closes when the engine is either shut off or stalls. This traps vacuum inside the booster so it can still provide one or two power assisted stops until the engine is restarted. The valve also helps maintain vacuum when intake vacuum is low (when the engine is under load or is running at wide open throttle). You can check the valve by removing it and trying to blow through it from both sides. It should pass air from the rear but not from the front.
Replacing a vacuum booster is a fairly straight forward job. All you have to do is disconnect it from the brake pedal on the inside and unbolt the master cylinder. The pushrod that runs from the booster into the back of the master cylinder must have the specified amount of play.
You will typically find the power brake booster mounted on the firewall attached to the master cylinder. The master cylinder is connected to the brake pedal.
Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Jul 15, 2010 | 1997 Ford F250 SuperCab

1 Answer

Experienceing loss of power to brakes


1. What is the Brake Fluid Level?
2. Are you losing any Brake fluid at all? Are there any puddles or noticeable wetness on the ground or on the tires/wheels? With vehicle parked, the reservoir filled (overfilled), and engine running: pump the brakes and check on the ground and back sides (inside portions) of the wheels. Look for any brake fluid leaks.
3. Leaks from Calipers usually means a leak from the caliper piston. The rubber seals will be wet.
Leaks from Drums usually means a leak from the wheel cylinder.
4. In any case of leaks from the wheels - replace the calliper OR wheel cylinder.
For caliper leaks: change the brake pads, and clean the rotors with brake cleaner.
For drum leaks: clean the drum and brake hardware with brake cleaner, and replace the shoes.
5. If no leak is detected from the wheel area's: check under the Master Cylinder for wetness indicating a possible leak.
6. If no leak can be found: you MAY have a rear seal leak in the Master Cylinder which is pumping Brake Fluid into the Brake Booster (that large disk looking thing attached to the fire wall, attached to the Master Cylinder in front).
a. Use a large drip/catch pan under the Van in the area on the Master Cylinder.
b. Disconnect the brake lines from the Master Cylinder using a flair wrench.
c. Remove the two nuts (12 or 13mm?) attaching the Master Cylinder to the Brake Booster. If you have been using a lot of fluid, and have found no leaks, here is a good possibilty that all that brake fluid has collected in the Booster; so when you detach the Master Cylinder from the Brake Booster, all that fluid will come rushing out!
7. If there is Brake Fluid inside the Brake Booster: there is no cleaning that out. Brake Fluid is very caustic to the seals inside the Booster and should be replaced.
8. Of course the Master Cylinder will also have to be replaced.
9. After replacing the Master Cylinder/Brake Booster - make sure you get all that spilled brake fluid off the engine compartment area parts! I use a brake cleaner, then mild soap and then water to rinse. Clean any Brake Fluid off Paint imediatley as it will quickly dissolves finishes and paint.
10. If no leak is detected and the Booster is clear, there may be problems with the Booster One-Way Valve. This is attached to the outside of the Booster and has a hose from an "advance" connected to it. This maybe malfunctioning where you are losing power. Replace this first before deciding to replace the whole booster (in cases of NON-LEAKS ONLY). If that did not work, there may be inner seals inside the Booster that have failed. That means a new Booster.
11. In any of the above cases: Make sure you bleed the Master Cylinder correctly and bleed the brakes (at each affected wheel) correctly. Any air in the brake lines will decrease your braking proficiency or could result in brake failure.

Let me know if this helped or if you have any additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!

Dec 10, 2009 | 1999 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

Brake fluid drains too fast


If you don't see any sign at the four wheels, pull the rear drums and check the wheel cylinders, it is being sucked into the engine through a bad master cylinder and through the power brake booster.

Jun 07, 2009 | 1994 Isuzu Pickup

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