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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I'm afraid this isn't exactly a solution/fix... but I am literally a day or two away from doing this job myself and more importantly though, I've been able to remove the pins you're referring to... so I hope my experiences can help you here.
Btw, my peugeot 406 estate is the V6 version - first edition (I.e. I think '96ish to '99), with rear discs.
Right, the pins I think you're talking about are the biggish ones, which run cross-ways, through the pads & caliper housing. They should come out freely, although each is held in place with a spring-clip. To also confirm we're talking about the same thing, these biggish pins hold the anti-rattle cage in place, which you should be able to see, with the wheel off, looking at the caliper from the side (you should be able to see the sides/edges of the pads too). They are NOT the big bolts that secure the caliper in place.
Anyhow, I used a pair of long nosed pliers to remove the spring clips, then I used the pliers to give the big pin a quick twist (to check it would rotate/move freely, as compared to being rusted in). I then used one half of the pliers to poke the pin backwards. The hole that you push the pin through should be facing you, as you face the car/wheel/brake disc.
Hopefully you will find that by shoving something into this hole, the pin will move away from you, inwards, towards the car... then just move it along until it comes out the back of the caliper housing. BE CAREFUL that the anti-rattle cage doesn't spring off unexpectedly + MAKE SURE you note which way round it goes.
The job itself, I think, won't be hard (otherwise I wouldn't be doing it). However, I did invest in a Haynes manual, which is very good and covers this in detail.
Please note that I've only tried to explain how these pins get removed, not the whole process. I personally found that the big bolts which secure the caliper in place are the pigs to deal with. The nearside wasn't too bad but the offside, cos of the direction you have to turn the bolts through, was awful... and I nearly gave up cos I just COULDN'T get the lower bolt to budge (I did in the end but i was honestly at that one bolt for an hour).
Finally, in case the pad retaining pins are rusted-in, all I can suggest is VERY CAREFUL use of WD40/penetrating oil + trying to rotate the pin (as I mentioned earlier) + something like a nail (suitably thick), which can fit into the hole that the pin resides in and then tap the nail with a hammer, so that the pin gets knocked backwards.
Hope this helps a bit.
Posted on Jan 14, 2009
The brake hose maybe bad replace it. They can claps on then self inside the hose. One work to check is have someone push the brake paddle down and release it if the rotor is hard to turn, open the bleeder vale if fluid comes out and the rotor turns freely that you problem.
Posted on Mar 05, 2009
If you drive your car more likely for short distances then the regenerating process couldn't be started to clean the cloged particulate filter and finally your car's ecu show you a antipollution fault. Drive your car to a motorway or dual carriage way.
The temperature meter should be showing above 70°C when you begin with this process. If this is the case, slow down place 3rd gear and drive at 3000-3500 rev /min to let the ecu to kick the regeneration process. Keep driving car 15 minutes in this state will be enough to solve this problem.
Posted on Oct 27, 2009
if u remove the under cover in the passenger foot well, just turn the fan blower on full and hit the first thing you see when u look under the pass foot well with the palm of your hand and the blower should start to work.
Posted on Apr 23, 2010
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