Question about Suzuki Vitara
I try to start my 1990 vitara but it won't start when turn to the key you don't hear anything
If this is not a theft deterrent, Try this:
This procedure usually works:
·Check the battery cable connections:
Make sure the positive cable, makes a good connection at the battery and at the starter. Make sure the negative cable makes a good ground connection at the battery and (preferably) at the engine.
·Check the battery the simple way, like this:
Turn on the headlights, then try to start the car.If the headlights do not dim or go out, then the battery is likely ok.
·Check the starter and solenoid:
If the wiring looks ok, then look at the starter solenoid for a good connection, and proper voltage at the starter(10 volts minimum while cranking).
If the starter spins and no crank, the problem is most likely the Solenoid's bendix gear is stuck.
Have someone hit (not too hard) the starter while you try to start the car. This usually works by dislodging a stuck bendix gear.
·Make a simple test of the alternator:
If you can, somehow get the engine running, measure the voltage at the battery. It should be at least 13.6 volts to properly charge the battery.
Posted on Apr 23, 2015
No crank!, if it cant crank, it can never start.
can be many thing.
1: dead battery or dirty terminals.
2: discharged battery (charge it or try test known good battery)
3: bad starter system.
Every way, possible , is here
Posted on May 18, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Do you mean when you say just won't turn over that the engine does not crank like a dead battery? Or do you mean it will not fire and run? You can take the breather hose off and spray some carb cleaner in it and replace the breather hose and try to start it. If it sputters you are still not getting fuel to the engine. This may be a bad fuel filter. But befoe we go to that lets check the fuses. Under the dash on your left driver side should be a fuse box. The remove the cover over it and look at the diagram. There should be one fuse marked ignition. Follow where the diagram shows you on the box. Sometimes the box has a tool for pulling these fuses. If not then needle nose pliars will work. Once you locate the fuse and have it out then lookk in the side window. There is a wire. If you see it has seperated or melted then replace it with same amp fuse. it is best to check all your fuses one at a time to be sure more then one did not go bad. Once that is all done and you can start your car then your good to go. If you didn't find a bad fuse then look under the hood. There is also a fuse box located there.
it is usually located on one of the wheel wells close to the firewall or windshield. It will have a cover over the top with the names of the types of fuses in it. one may say ignition. Check that one for damage.
If once you are done checking all the fuses and you are not on the road yet then lets continue on to the next item. let me know and I will tell you whats next. Raz
Posted on Apr 18, 2010
No noise from fuel pump when you turn over the car .First thing get voltage at fuel pump relay checked, is there 12 volt to the relay.If no, then problem is again the relay.---------
To reconfirm the problem, try other test, that is remove the relay and by pass the relay terminals with a jumper wire .Then with 12 volt external battery give power to fuel pump connector and see, if the fuel pump starts, then its clear that fuel pump relay is faulty.----------- Also other problem can be fuel pump inertia switch.If the inertia switch is faulty then also fuel pump will not start.--------
The fuel pump relay on a 1995 Ford Explorer is in the power distribution
box, in the engine compartment, driver's side near the firewall.----------
The fuel pump inertia switch is in the right front passenger area
it is below the dash but above the carpet in the right hand corner.--------
Its a push button type inertia switch.
Fuel Pump Activation
When ignition switch is turned to START position, PCM operates fuel pump relay to provide fuel for starting engine. PCM senses engine speed and shuts off fuel pump by opening ground circuit to fuel pump relay when engine stops or engine speed drops to less than 120 RPM. When ignition switch is in ON position, EEC power relay is energized (contacts closed). Power is provided to fuel pump relay and timer in PCM. Fuel pump receives power through fuel pump relay contacts.
Inertia Fuel Shutoff (IFS) Switch
All models use an electrical interrupt switch in fuel system. During a collision or vehicle rollover, electrical contacts within inertia switch open, shutting off fuel supply to electric fuel pump. Fuel supply is interrupted even when engine is running.
A reset button is located on switch assembly. If electrical circuit trips, vehicle will not restart until switch is reset. Fuel system should be inspected before resetting switch.
IFS switch is located under instrument panel, near right side of transmission hump. ----------- If the fuel pump relay, the inertia switch and fuel pump all checked ok, and fuel pump is working with direct 12 volt source to fuel pump.Then problem relates to computer.The computer (power control module, PCM) is faulty and has to be replaced.--------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.
Posted on Jul 17, 2011
Testimonial: "Thanks. That was the best answer yet.I didn't want to hear that the PCM might need to be replaced but the car has served it's purpose through the year"
the clicking that you hear is coming from the starter relay. sounds like your ignition starter switch or ignition lock cylinder is bad.
Posted on May 30, 2012
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Starting Problem # 1: Engine Won't Crank At All
Scenario: You turn the key, but nothing happens: And by nothing, we mean there is no dash light, no sound, nada. The first thing you should do in this case is to pop the hood and check the battery. Either the battery is completely dead or there's a wiring problem in the starting system. Try jump-starting the battery. If that doesn't work, you'll probably have to call for assistance.
Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a rapid clicking sound, and the dash lights dim. This is your classic low-battery symptom. Jump-starting the battery should get the engine to start.However, if you keep experiencing this problem, you could have a bad battery or alternator, or it could be something as simple as a loose alternator belt. Take your car to a mechanic just as soon as you can.
Scenario: When you turn the key, the lights on the dash come on, but you don't hear anything. Make sure you have the shift selector all the way in park. Move it out of park and then back, or try starting it with the shifter in neutral. If your car has a manual transmission, make sure you have the clutch pressed all the way to the floor. If that doesn't help, you can try jump-starting the battery, but it probably won't work. There's a good chance your car has a bad starter or a problem in the starting circuit. That could mean a problem in the ignition switch, neutral safety switch or starter solenoid.
Scenario: The dash lights come on when you turn the key, and then go right out, and the engine doesn't crank when you turn the key to start, But, the lights slowly come back on when you release the key. This is another classic: the bad battery connection. When you turn the key to start, the starter pulls so much current that it breaks the connection. Then, when you release the key, the connection slowly comes back. The connection provides enough power to turn the dash lights on, but not enough to crank the starter. Cleaning and tightening the battery terminals may fix this problem.
Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a single, hard clunk. Turn the headlights on and try again. Do the lights dim slightly when you turn the key? If so, you probably have a bad starter or a seized engine. If the headlights don't dim at all, or just barely dim, there may be a connection problem between the starter solenoid and the starter itself.
Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a loud, scraping or grinding sound like metal on metal. The starter drive is bad, or the ring gear on the flywheel damaged, or both. You may get the starter to engage if you try turning the key a couple of times, but let go of the key right away if you hear the noise again. If the car does start, you should drive it right over to local repair shop and have the problem fixed.
Starting Problem #2: Engine Cranks but It Won't Start
Scenario: The engine seems to crank normally, but the engine doesn't even sound as if it's trying to start. Is there gas in the tank? Gas gauges are notoriously inaccurate. If you have to move your head to one side to get the needle to move off empty, try adding some gas to the tank.
Scenario: When you first turn the key on, you don't hear the fuel pump run. In cars with electronic fuel injection, you should hear a light hum a few seconds from around the fuel tank. That's the electric fuel pump running. If you don't hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds when you first turn the key on, try cranking the engine until the oil light goes out. That may start the pump running and allow the engine to start.
Scenario: The engine cranks normally, and it sounds like it wants to start, but it won't. You may have flooded the engine. Hold the gas floor and try again. (Let the gas pedal up when it finally starts). If it's raining out, the ignition system may be wet.
Scenario: The engine cranks unevenly in a repetitive-sounding pattern. You may have a bad timing chain or timing belt. Call a tow truck and have it towed to the repair shop.
Starting Problem # 3: Engine Starts but It Shuts Off
Scenario: The engine starts right up, but shuts off as soon as you release the key. This is the classic symptom of a bad ignition switch. A new switch should fix it.
Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but when you put the transmission in gear, the car lurches and the engine shuts off. The converter clutch in the transmission torque converter probably is engaging when it shouldn't. On some cars, you can bypass this by disconnecting the torque converter clutch solenoid; but unless you know which wire to pull, forget about it. Call for assistance.
Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but seems to idle slowly and stalls when you come to a stop. This probably is a fast idle problem. When the engine is cold, it's supposed to idle a little faster than normal to keep the engine running. You may be able to drive using two feet until the engine warms up: one on the gas to hold the idle up a little and the other for the brake. However, don't keep driving it this way. Take your car to your repair shop just as soon as you
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