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Yamaha Pro Hauler Diff Lock

The diff lock does not work. any help would be apreciated

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 2427 Answers

SOURCE: Center Differential Lock Stuck

Yes it will, once no power is going to it it should or it could remain locked as well Give it a try . But you should have a look at the relay

1 2
3 4

that is what the pins should look lik 1 - 4 should power it
try grounding pins 1 - 4 this should lick or unlock the diff..

Posted on Jul 15, 2008

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: 1998 Grand Cherokee Orvis - Rear diff lock permanently on?

drain the rear end and refill with the proper gear oil and differential additive

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

  • 163 Answers

SOURCE: rear axle shaft removal on 2002 chevy s-10

It is more than likely limited slip... It should be same as others pull the spider pin out by removing retainer rotate diff. and slide pin down but do not completely remove. Push axle in and remove C clip.

Posted on Sep 22, 2009

Molson02536
  • 3854 Answers

SOURCE: Front diff. wont lock into 4x4. Transfer case

The cable from the differential to the accumulator should move somewhat freely. If it does not, then the cable may be froze up. You can lubricate it with some penetrating oil and work it to free it back up. You may have to remove it to free it up properly.You may find the cable shield towards the bottom end is broke off and the cable may completely be froze up, it's common on the Blazers. You can try pulling on the rod that the cable clips into in the front diff to disengage the front axle. If you cannot get it to engage that way, then you will likely have to pull off the passenger side extension housing to access the engagement collar and fork. If you cannot get it to engage by pulling on the fork in the axle, then you will likely have to disassemble it.

You will likely have to file down the leading edge of the gears. They should be beveled on the sides of the spline to aid in engagement. Hopefully yours is not chipped like the one in the front of my old S10. Mine chipped the splines on the axle and split the collar from being partially engaged under power

The right axle and has splines at the end of it. The Output Shaft slides into the carrier and has large teeth on the other end. The collar it has large teeth inside it that mate with the Output Shaft with the Fork.

The collar rests on the axle, the fork wraps around the collar. Then you push the 4x4 button or shift your transfer case into 4x4 it starts spinning the front drive shaft, which spins the carrier and the short shaft. Now your in 4x4, BUT the front axle needs to lock the right axle with the carrier. A switch on the transfer case routes engine vacuum to a diaphragm under the battery tray, that diaphragm pulls a cable which pulls the collar and forces it over the short shaft. Now your front diff is locked. When you take it out of 4x4 the vacuum switch closes and a spring pushes the fork and collar off the shaft unlocking the front diff.

The problem with mine I think is that the large teeth on the Output Shaft and the inside of the collar are worn at the tips, not allowing them to join together, and the more I drove it around with it clicking, thinking it would lock eventually it just wore the tip of the teeth more.

If that is the problem, You should not have to mess with the differential case. You should be able to get the passenger axle extension tube off, but it may require popping a ball joint, then disconnecting the CV shaft from the axle extension tube, which would allow you to then pull the extension tube.

Good luck and hope it's just the shift cable retaining clip in the housing that broke.

Posted on Dec 30, 2009

mrsmucker
  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: my jeep wrangler rubicon has a from diff lock

If you indeed purchased a Jeep Rubicon, 2007 or newer, it has a switch on the dash which operates a moderized sway bar disconnect. There is a detailed discritption of it in your owners manual. The performance they are referring to is in axle articulation, not mileage. Enjoy!

Posted on Jan 05, 2010

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1 Answer

How do I fix the diff light in my Jeep switch board ?


Check wiring under/behind the switch chances are it is a "dead short" which is keeping your light on. Look for bare wire(s). Peace. God bless

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IF you have both front wheels in the air then either wheel will spin freely unless you have diff lock or limited slip diff. That is the nature of a diff..wd means that all 4 wheels drive but only when you have a limited slip diff or a diff locker. in action . If you have both of one side wheels in a bog you will not go any where.

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96 pajero auto no power front right wheel i 4wd trans fluid level ok


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Apr 22, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have Landrover Discovery TD5 and the ABS and TC light are on. Periodically the Diff lock light shows. It has been plugged into diagnostics at local garage, but NO FAULT WITH ABS PICK UPS!! Advice...


Sounds like a faulty Diff Lock switch to me.
Most of the D2 models till late 03 model year use a version of firmware on the SLABS ECU that when diff-lock is detected puts the ABS and Traction Control systems into a lower response mode. Late model vehicles came with factory fit diff-lock linkages as a option, and the firmware was revised to allow this to operate in conjunction with the traction control.
Therefore ABS and TC illuminating (but with no HDC) means your TC/ABS is in the lower performing mode, and your diff-lock may be in, but more likely the £12 switch has broken, and needs replacing. It's a bugger of a job, and can be done from underneath the vehicle (did mine this way) the switch is p/no PRC2911, and just unscrews. It's located just behind the diff-lock stud above where the front prop fits.
Your options are thus:
1) Remove the front prop. Work blind and try and change it by feel alone. Helps if you can clean the area off before too, don't want any rubbish falling in the box! Unplug & Undo the switch, IIRC it's a 12mm head, and a stubby spanner is the tool for the job. Remove, swap the lower nut from the old switch to the new one (important for the length) and put back in. Don't do up too tight, or it may shear off (as my friend did 2 days after I did mine! He kept tightening it...) Pop the connections on and the front prop and the fault should go away. You could also just disconnect the switch if you want. IIRC open circuit is no-diff lock anyway, but if that's not correct then make up a link with some spade connectors and link it out then.
2) Remove the centre console, drill the rivets and attack from above. Same tools needed, just you can see what you're doing.
I favoured Option 1. YMMV!

Feb 10, 2010 | 1999 Land Rover Discovery

1 Answer

Landrover td5 abs light and traction control light illuminating periodically it seems to have lost power and is making a whirring noise


Sounds like a faulty Diff Lock switch to me.
Most of the D2 models till late 03 model year use a version of firmware on the SLABS ECU that when diff-lock is detected puts the ABS and Traction Control systems into a lower response mode. Late model vehicles came with factory fit diff-lock linkages as a option, and the firmware was revised to allow this to operate in conjunction with the traction control.
Therefore ABS and TC illuminating (but with no HDC) means your TC/ABS is in the lower performing mode, and your diff-lock may be in, but more likely the £12 switch has broken, and needs replacing. It's a bugger of a job, and can be done from underneath the vehicle (did mine this way) the switch is p/no PRC2911, and just unscrews. It's located just behind the diff-lock stud above where the front prop fits.
Your options are thus:
1) Remove the front prop. Work blind and try and change it by feel alone. Helps if you can clean the area off before too, don't want any rubbish falling in the box! Unplug & Undo the switch, IIRC it's a 12mm head, and a stubby spanner is the tool for the job. Remove, swap the lower nut from the old switch to the new one (important for the length) and put back in. Don't do up too tight, or it may shear off (as my friend did 2 days after I did mine! He kept tightening it...) Pop the connections on and the front prop and the fault should go away. You could also just disconnect the switch if you want. IIRC open circuit is no-diff lock anyway, but if that's not correct then make up a link with some spade connectors and link it out then.
2) Remove the centre console, drill the rivets and attack from above. Same tools needed, just you can see what you're doing.
I favoured Option 1. YMMV!

Your whirring noise and loss of power may indicate the diff-lock is engaging occasionally and may indicate damage to the transfer box.

Oct 01, 2009 | 1999 Land Rover Discovery

1 Answer

Front diff will not lock in transfer case works


change out your diff locking selonid on top of your front diff

Jul 17, 2009 | 1994 Chevrolet K1500

1 Answer

Diff lock


look in the glove box there will be a white decal with a bunch of codes see if g80 is on there this is locking diff code

Sep 24, 2008 | GMC Yukon Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Pajero exceed 1993 4x4 super select


Dear Customer,

do all this for solving your's

1
open your bonet & check your indicators connection i sure that there is some thing wrong or disorder connected indicators,

2
check your diff lock is working properly or not,

3
check your power supply for indication sysytem with helping your lights up & down

THNX

May 17, 2008 | Mitsubishi Pickup Cars & Trucks

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