Question about 1989 Volvo 740

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Ford courier 95 no spark from dizzy

Hi, I have replaced coil, dizzy,and cap, bought new rotor,replaced leads plugs, got fuel getting up, but no spark from dizzy to block. I started it a week ago, started no prob.then died. No spark from dizzy to block

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 102 Answers

SOURCE: wont start

ok you said it has fire from the coil but no spark? pull a plug if it wet put in all new and use one to ck fire at plug wire end

Posted on Sep 24, 2008

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  • 18 Answers

SOURCE: Volvo 240 has no spark

Try a new engine rpm speed sensor. It is located at the back-top of engine block where it mates to trans. You will need to remove a single bolt (10mm socket or wrench). You may have to wiggle the sensor to lift it out. Another symtom you may experience, is when you are cranking the car to start, it will buck and act like it is out of time. Another possible component is the ignition power stage/amplifier.

Posted on Oct 28, 2008

  • 168 Answers

SOURCE: No spark at plugs on my 1991 volvo 240

Did you replace the plugs? How hot is the spark from the coil thin and blue? if it is big and orange it is a weak coil and should be replaced. If it is good try an other wire from a different car (do not put a spark plug in it) and see what the spark looks like if good put the plug in it and check the spark again if this is a good the wires are bad

Posted on Mar 06, 2009

  • 83 Answers

SOURCE: 1989 Volvo 240 GL: Will not start, no spark, no fuel

it is likely either the Crank position sensor, or the ignition module. (module is in the left front fender area behind the turn signal)

Posted on Mar 26, 2009

Outofworkjoe
  • 216 Answers

SOURCE: 95 volvo 940 turbo has had intermittent starting

Have you replaced your fuel pump relay?

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

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1 Answer

No spark out of dizzy


What is a dizzy?

May 07, 2013 | 1989 Volvo 740

1 Answer

G200 charade no spark


May be a bad coil even though it is a new one. Did you replace the rotor when you did the dizzy ? Considering all the other new items you've installed, it is very likely the ICM (ignition control module) or the ICM cable/connector harness

Jan 20, 2018 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Get no spark at spark plug what can i check?


distributer cap rotor button leads.. coil.. ummm. all that done power the maybe the vaccum on the dizzy then the dizzy it self

Sep 02, 2010 | 1983 Ford Ranger

2 Answers

Iv got a '87 mk4 s2 escort rs turbo that wont start. it turns over. has a new coil,distribitor,leads and plugs and its getting fuel but just not starting.. please help! cheers


Well if you have replaced all of the ignition components and you have verified that you are getting fuel thats great? I assume you have verified it is getting spark because if you havent it could be your ignition control module or even your ecm. I would confirm you have spark. If you have spark then the vehicle should run. You said you replaced the distibutor? I am going to assume you mean the entire distributor and not just the cap and rotor? I would make sure you do not have the timing 180 degrees out since you replaced the distributor, it can happen and if so the car will never start. If you just did cap and rotor I would make sure you didn't accidentally install the rotor 180 degrees out. I had a guy that did this on his Chevy truck, poor guy just did a tune up and everything on it and it ran before he did the tune up. I took a look and realized he reversed the rotor, as soon as I turned it back it fired right up and ran great.

Apr 09, 2010 | 1988 Ford Escort EXP

3 Answers

IT IS MISSING iVE REPLACED THE PLUGS


Misfiring Escort...
THE Guide!
1- check HT leads, including the main lead from the coil. pull one off at a time and see if there is any difference in engine noise, if a lead makes no difference to the engine note when you pull it off it is broken and you need a new lead for that plug - best to replace a full set since the others will be on their way out too. try each plug and check the leads like this with the engine running, 2- clean/repace distributor cap and rotor arm if it is dirty or corroded, there are 2 Clips, one on either side of the distributor cap, pull em off, take the distributor cap off, look inside the cap, there are 4 pins, are they all corroded and covered in white stuff?, they should be shiny brass, clean them up with fine wet and dry sandpaper, make them flat and shiny again. also still on the distributor is the rotor arm, pull it off, it may need a bit of wiggling - clean this up the same with the wet and dry, get a very fine grade of wet and dry sandpaper since you want the metal to be as smooth as possible afterwards, once the cap and rotor both have shiny metal clean them with mild detergent, rinse and dry them fully, not only to clean them of dirt and grime but also the metal filings from the sanding are "bad" for the distributor.. once dried refit the rotor arm (it only goes on one way, do not force it) refit the distributor cap, make sure its the right way round (make a note of its position BEFORE you remove it) 3- check if air filter is blocked and replace it if it is very dirty - if you think it is blocked try running the engine without the filter and see if it runs better, you know for sure you have a bad filter if this is the case. 4- check fuel filter (especially on 1.0 and 1.3 engines) for blockage and fuel line for blockage (replacement costs £3.50-£5 or so)
apart from that its "experience required" jobs like setting the ignition timing - just get a normal tune up after you've checked out the leads and dizzy/rotor arm which is quite cheap on an escort, you only turn the dizzy and move 1 screw...
Just for reference in case i have misjudged you're ability and you want to try tune it yourself... 1989 MK4 Ford Escort ;-D you didn't give CC so you'll get all engine data for 1989! (petrol)
NOTE: the CVH engines have hydraulic tappets so no adjustment is possible and no data is given. ---------------------------------------------
Escort 1.3 "HCS" 1988-1990 1297cc Valve tappet clearances - Inlet --- 0.20mm - Exhaust 0.32mm Firing order 1-2-4-3 Idle speed - 700-800RPM -
750RPM is optimal idle but anything between 700-800RMP is acceptable.
Ignition Timing- 15 Degrees before top dead center at idle RPM
Spark Plugs : Motorcraft - AGRF22 Champion - RS9YC Spark Plug Gap - 1.00mm (check it is right or it will misfire...)
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Escort 1.4 (1392cc) "CVH" - 1986-1990
Firing Order 1-3-4-2 Idle speed 750-850RPM, 800 being optimum _____ NOTE: This engine requires premium fuel (97 Ron) or it will run poorly - damage may result from using low grade fuel. ----------------------------
Ignition Timing - 12 degrees BTDC at idle RPM. Spark plugs - Motorcraft - AGPR22C Champion - RC7YC Spark plug gap 0.75mm (check this)

----------------------------------------------------------
Escort 1.4i Catalyst - 1.4 "CVH" 1392cc 1989-1990
Idle RPM 850-950RPM 900RPM Being optimum :This engine needs only regular unledad 95RON
Ignition timing - 8 to 12 degrees BTDC 10 degrees being optimum Spark PLugs - Motorcraft - AGPR22C1 Champion - RC7YC
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ford Escort 1.6 "CVH" 1596CC
Firing order 1-3-4-2 Idle speed - 750-850RPM - 800 being optimal Ignition Timing - 12 degrees BTDC at 800 RPM Spark Plugs - Motorcraft - AGPR22C Champion - RC7YC Spark Plug Gap - 0.75mm (check it!)
NOTE :This engine will run on regular fuel (95 RON) but the timing should be set to 8 Degrees BTDC at idle RPM for this fuel.
------------------------------------------------------------
FORD ESCORT 1.1 - 1989-1990 - 1118cc "HCS"
Firing order 1-2-4-3
Idle speed - 700-800RPM 750 Being optimal
This engine runs on regular or premium fuel without adjustment
Ignition Timing - 10 degrees BTDC
Spark Plugs - Motorcraft - AGRF22C1 Champion - RS9YC Spark Plug Gap 1.00mm (check this!)
-------------------------------------
So check your spark plug gaps with feeler guages if you don't have a feeler guage they're less than a fiver at a cheap motor shop - even pound shop and market stalls sometimes have them.
Apart from that lot - these cars can run bad if the battery is weak, they chug like hell on a half charged or failing battery, so make sure the battery is strong too...
The carburettor jets could be clogged or worn... Inlet manifold could be leaking?
Check the low tension wiring (the wiring on the ignition coil, the two round plugs that puch onto the coil) one red and one green/black/stripey/somethin - trace these two wires around the engine bay and check them for damage and loose connections.
Thats all I can think of right now tell me how you get on, I KNOW these cars... I'll go step by step if you need help checking everything/replacing whats wrong,
------------------------------
Good luck.

Jan 20, 2010 | 1989 Ford Escort

1 Answer

Need firing order diagram.. wont start


remove the dizzy cap, crank motor over to find out the rotation of the rotor. Remove the no.1 spark plug and bring no.1 piston up to top dead centre on compression stroke, mark side of dizzy body where the end of the rotor points to, replace dizzy cap and see which lead it lines up with.
that will be your no.1 lead, find the firing order and put the leads back on the dizzy cap in the direction of the rotors rotation, run those leads to the corresponding plugs and it should start.

May 19, 2009 | 1979 Lincoln Mark V

1 Answer

Ke laser ignition problem


Have you replaced the rotor in the dizzy and made sure the the leads are fimly attached to the dizzy cap.

Mar 15, 2009 | 2006 Ford Laser

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