Question about 2004 Ford Escape

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Voltage regulator replaced the alternator and battery is pretty new. battery still not charging.

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  • Master
  • 937 Answers

You might have a defect. Taken it to your nearest Auto Zone or Kragen to check to see what is going on. http://www.diyobd2.fr/wholesale/mini-elm327-bluetooth-version-obd2-v15-free-shipping-1597.html

Posted on May 08, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

samson-1
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SOURCE: alternator light on

The alternator is not producing any power . If it were the engine would run without the battery. Check the wiring on the alternator. It must ave an exciter wire to make it work.

Posted on Oct 07, 2008

rockitman187
  • 2559 Answers

SOURCE: 1972 Ford F100 Alternator/Voltage Regulator wiring

Here is what you need.

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Posted on Feb 09, 2009

  • 113 Answers

SOURCE: 84 ford F350 6.9 diesel charging system not

look for a fusible link out. You need to check for output on the alternator that you installed. make sure the batteries are fully charged before that, otherwise its not going to read right. start from the source. also, you can disconnect the batteries from the sys and do a continuity check on the wires in the loom, so you can see if current has a path, or if you have an open circuit. hope this helps

Posted on Jul 25, 2009

  • 299 Answers

SOURCE: replaced the battery and the alternator in 2006 ford taurus

check the alternator fuse and grounding

Posted on Sep 25, 2009

  • 5495 Answers

SOURCE: 2003 Ford Windstar----I had battery

Hello, It could be what you said. But if you know the Voltage was too high, you may want to replace the Ignition Relay and the Fuel pump Relay. If the contact points are cooked, they could work intermittently and it would be difficult to test. A bump or a little overheating could cause the contact points to break loose and then work when they cool.

It is good that the "check lights" are off. I always tell my clients that the scans are free at Autozone, Oreillys, and Advance. Some things like Relays may not trigger a light.

Be careful with a Wiggle test, but you may find a short in the wiring by shaking the wiring under the hood. I doubt the Voltage Regulator is causing your current stalling problem. A fully charged Battery without a Regulator or an Alternator would provide an amount of reliable power until the Battery was drawn down.

I hope my Solution is very helpful.

Posted on Jun 27, 2011

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3 Answers

" HI " Where is the Voltage Regulator Located on a 2002 Dodge Stratus R/T 3.0


The way to check for an over or under charge is to connect your volt meter to the battery, before starting the vehicle.
You should have a reading of 12.5 to 13 volts. If it's 11.8 like you stated or less, it means battery is not fully charged, or it's bad. Now start the car & check voltage again while running the engine, the voltage should exceed 14+ volts, this means your Alternator is charging, the voltage should drop after battery has been charging for awhile. When you turn the engine off after letting it charge the battery, & if the battery is good, you should now have 12.5 volts to 13 volts.
Now to answer your question, the Voltage Regulator is inside of the Altenator, I believe you xcan take the alternator apart to replace it, or simpler to just replace the complete alternator.

Nov 15, 2014 | 2002 Dodge Stratus

1 Answer

2nd newly rebuilt alternator burning out.


Due to the nature of the battery technology used with vehicles the alternator is mostly incapable of charging the battery. The car alternator is designed to keep a fully charged battery fully charged and to provide all the power for the car equipment.

The alternator charge rate is regulated by a voltage regulator. Because the alternator output is connected to the battery, the alternator and battery voltage will be the same and the voltage regulator monitors that voltage.

The lower the battery voltage the more output the alternator will produce in order to correct the situation but because a lead acid battery has a high internal resistance to accepting a charge the terminal voltage will quickly rise to the alternator regulated voltage and fool the alternator into thinking the battery is fully charged when the output will drop to the order of just a couple of amps.

Switch on the headlights or a similar load that will lower the battery voltage and the alternator will increase it's output again - but only by the amount of current the headlamps or other load is consuming.
It matters not what the alternator rated maximum output is, it is designed to provide only the necessary current and no more.

The only time an alternator should ever need to produce maximum output is when on a dedicated testbed and then only for a short duration to avoid damaging the unit. Testing the current output on a modern vehicle is not recommended except for the regulated voltage testing and a rule-of-thumb output test where all equipment is switched on and the engine speed raised while the battery voltage is monitored.

Most modern alternators use an internal voltage regulator but a few systems use a separate voltage regulator. No alternator rebuild would be complete without a regulator test and probably a new or replacement regulator, which is where the majority of charging system problems are, or the brush gear.
Assuming the wiring is ok, no alternator should suffer any harm if the voltage regulator and auxilliary diodes (if fitted) are in good order though fitting a defective or a discharged battery can cause it to overheat and be damaged.

The alternator usually just about stops producing an output when the battery voltage is in the region of 14.5/14.8 volts.
Your description indicates the voltage regulator is not working correctly - unless 40 amps was being consumed by the car equipment the alternator should not have been producing 40 amps.. I suggest you also have your battery tested

May 12, 2017 | 1988 Acura Legend

2 Answers

Alternator charges at 14.4volts, replaced regulator, same result. boils battery.


The max charge voltage is usually around 14.5 volts, so 14.4 is not high.
Its possible the battery has a dead cell and that is causing the acid problem.
You might want to check with the dealer on what the max voltage is for your car.

Oct 08, 2012 | 2001 Hyundai Elantra

2 Answers

There is a ground some were that is causeing the battery not to charge put new selinoid ,new battery,alternater,new key lock cylender check wirers fuses relay switches and battery still wont charge


It sounds like you have done a whole lot of replacing and not much "diagnosing". Did you chech for battery voltage at the alternator? There should be battey voltage at the large Black/Orange wire that is on the B+ terminal of the alternator. This wire should have voltage all the time. If there is no battery voltage, you most likely have a burned fusible link at the starter relay area.
There should also be voltage at the "S" terminal with the ignition on. If there is no voltage, then check for voltage at the "S" terminal of the voltage regulator. If there is no voltage at the "S" terminal on the voltage regulator then check the "I" terminal on the regulator for voltage.

NOTE: The voltage on the "S" terminal should be 1/2 that of the voltage on the "I" terminal.

If there is voltage on the "I" terminal, make sure your voltage regulator is grounded properly to the fender and retest to see if it is charging the battery. If it is still not charging, disconnect the regulator connector and connect a jumper between the "A" and "F" terminals of the connector. Start the engine. The alternator should now be charging the battery at high voltage (usually over 15 volts) If it does, replace your voltage regulator. If it does not, then you need to check your wiring between the voltage regulator and the alternator.

Please also review this article:

What Else Could Be Wrong?

Jun 15, 2011 | 1987 Ford F 150

2 Answers

I would like to ajust voltage regulator but cant find it


Pretty sure the voltage regulator is INSIDE the alternator, and you CANNOT adjust it.
If it is putting out TOO much voltage, you could tear down the alternator and repair it, but it is easier to just put a re-manufactured one on it.

Your output voltage from the alt. should be between 13.75 to 14.75. If not, or if it 'jumps' alot, then replace the alternator.
test the battery voltage with a voltmeter with the engine off, then with it on. Battery should test 12 V. + if it is fully charged.

Jun 11, 2011 | Toyota FJ Cruiser Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I seem to have a charging of the battery problem. I would get 14 volts to my battery from my alternator and then 6 volts, i changed m alternator and things were going great, no problems. Now it is acting...


Hi,
If you were originally having a wild fluctuation in measurement at the battery the voltage regulator would have been shot. I'm not sure of what the condition was of the original alternator. But I would definitely have changed the voltage regulator. A bad regulator can ruin a battery and all sorts of other things. If you are now getting wild variations in voltage
1st Purchase and install a new voltage regulator. (probably about $20.00 these days.
Then check your new battery by doing the following:
1 Disconnect it from the truck's electrical system.
2 Charge it up using another vehicle and jumpers.
3 After disconnecting the battery from the jumpers, let it sit for a few minutes.
4 Check the voltage. If it is below 12 volts, the battery is shot. Replace it under warranty.
5 When you get the new battery, Install it in the truck and start it up. Then measure the voltages coming into the battery from the alternator and the new voltage regulator.
If all is well, your done.
If not. Pull the alternator and replace that.
Hope this helps,
Good Luck,
Mark

Jan 05, 2011 | 1988 Dodge Ram 50

1 Answer

Battery light comes on. Had battery tested and it's OK.Checked battery voltage with key off 12.04 volts, started it voltage is 14.45. The light comes on after driving for awhile.


OK, sounds like a bad voltage regulator or loose belt. But, it's more likely a voltage regulator on the alternator that is not supplying enough voltage to the battery over time.

For maximum peace of mind, I would have the alternator replaced if you experience any starting problems attributable to a weak or undercharged battery.

14.45 volts doesn't sound bad to me, for an initial voltage, but there may be a problem with the alternator (like a bad diode trio) , which controls the battery charge light pretty directly.

Oct 28, 2010 | 2000 Ford Expedition

1 Answer

Battery will not charge, first time its ever did this. rebuilt alternator new battery and new starter not to sure if new starter has anything to do with battery chargin but replaced it anyway, has good...


A bad voltage regulator could cause the problem. Assuming the alternator is working correctly. Jump the vehicle with the battery disconnected and then disconnect the jumper cables. If the vehicle dies your voltage regulator or Alternator are bad, some vehicle have separate regulators from the alternator, if it continues to run the alternator is good but the voltage regulator is probably the cause.

Aug 08, 2010 | 1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass

1 Answer

My pt cruiser will not charge the battery it has new belt new alternator and the pcm was checked and came back fine and there is power to the back of the alternator


The alternator will have power still coming through but it's the voltage regulator inside the alternator that could be bad. This is pretty much what charges and keeps the battery at charge.

Jun 05, 2010 | 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser

2 Answers

My 7.3 L diesel ford f-250 shows the battery light (check charge system) on in the dash. I tried to drive it and the voltage gauge started dropping into the 10-11 v range. I replaced the alternator...


You must have an older vehicle,but I am pretty sure the 7.3 was put out after the voltage regulator was put in the alternator.What you are describing is a voltage regulator on the the firewall.If this is so,replace the voltage regulator on the firewall,with a new one.This will be the problem most likely.The voltage regulator on the firewall should be kind of flat,almost square,and a wide plug,goes all the way across the voltage regulator.If You don`t have external regulator,then it is built in the alternator,and the alternator you purchased is bad.Be sure the wires on the back of the alternator are not broken anywhere.The big post ,largest wire,on the back of the alternator is the out put wire.It should go to the battery.If it does not have 13.65 to 14.25 volts on the back of the alternator,and at the battery positive post.Like I said,I believe the voltage regulator is on the firewall,if it looks like I described,then it is a regulator,replace this part(voltage regulator)and it will solve your problem.I hope this was some help,please let us know,thank you.

Oct 15, 2009 | Ford F-250 Cars & Trucks

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