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Tow Truck Won't Start

I have a 04 4300 international tow truck that won't start. It will crank but will not turn over. we have replaced fuel filter and replaced some wires that were thought to be the problem, but still no help.

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 5,668 Answers

Plugs coils,wires.

Posted on May 08, 2013

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 708 Answers

SOURCE: Truck won't start, but after ride on tow truck starts right up, please help?!

Typically when the fuel pump goes it is gone. Have you ever changed the fuel filter? On my 2000 expedition it is inside the frame on the drivers side about midway. Try this first, it is cheaper and easier than a fuel pump. Takes about 10 minutes.

Posted on May 27, 2009

iambanshee74
  • 3489 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 1999 gmc

This sounds strongly like a PMD issue which is on the side of the fuel injection pump. Common issue and easily remedied. There are kits in which put the PMD in a different location as to avoid heat saturation. Let me know if you need to find one.

Posted on Oct 26, 2010

  • 9 Answers

SOURCE: 1999 cadillac catera I was driving and car killed

it's definitly the crankshaft position sensor, i've had the same problem and it took my mechanic almost 2 hours to find the problem, i hope this helped you

Posted on Jan 21, 2011

cansmo
  • 2431 Answers

SOURCE: Have a 1999 S10 Chev

You have a bad typical connection hence the code, you are mainy going to have to troubleshoot this one on you own Chevy are popular for good looking wire connection and poor contact especially on the coil area just wiggle the connection and have some one crank it and it will start then wiggle it again and it will stall out, 1351 here is the definition Ignition coil high circuit input what this means is your are internaly disconnected you will need a terminal repair on the ignition coil this is a typical failure on the connection

Posted on Jul 12, 2011

bendarden
  • 984 Answers

SOURCE: 1988 nissan 300zx won't start it gets fire,

Make the FixYa experience better for everyone by voting.

Hi,

My name is Ben and I'm your guru, i.e., mentor, an influential teacher or popular expert: a management guru. - origin from Sanskrit, 'weighty, grave', for today.

As you evaluate my advice and suggestions, there are a few things you must keep in mind:

• I did not diagnose your problem and am therefore only able to evaluate what you tell me. For example, if you ask me a fuse location, that doesn't mean that I can tell you the reason why the fuse blew.
• A thorough diagnostic approach involves the use of technical equipment, such as voltage meters. scanning equipment and other sophisticated devices.
• Lastly, fixing one problem can very easily reveal a problem with something that you might consider unrelated. However, you must keep in mind that I can only evaluate and suggest based on the information that you provide.

Subject: Vehicle will not start
Your description of the problem: 1988 nissan 300zx won't start it gets fire, and fuel, cranks but won't start it has been sitting up for couple years but would't start is why I purchased the car I replaced the plugs, previous owner said he thought it was a fuel problem, but pump works, new f/filter new fuel rail, hose and clamps .

Discussion: Late model vehicles are highly computer controlled to reduce emissions, maximize fuel economy and improve consumer comfort. The various control systems in vehicles are interrelated and controlled by multiple computers that constantly monitor vehicle performance through a myriad of sensors located throughout the vehicle. Based on information received, the computers adjust the vehicle performance through a series of valves, switches and motors. You must use a scanner to unlock the information stored in your car's computer. Your 300Z is OBD -1 compliant.

A Scan Tool can be used to read and erase trouble codes, display, record and play back LIVE diagnostic data and perform other tests allowed by the vehicle maker. Scan tools that cover vehicles 1982 to present are available at your local auto supply dealer.

You don't indicate any diagnostic tests to date. A dealer or your local mechanic will charge $100-$200 to perform a diagnostic scan. However, AutoZone will sell you one for less than $30. Anyone who tells you that a modern vehicle can be diagnosed without a scanner with the problems you have set forth is merely guessing. You car has a computer and memory and probably knows exactly what the problem is. That on-board computer is just waiting for you to ask, "What's wrong". All of the suggestions cited below will require the use of a code scanner or a code reader.

This is how your problem is solved in my shop. Out of the box, I'd say that you have a problem with the fuel management system or one of the system sensors that is causing the on-board computer to make adjustments as best it can. However, there's a good chance that it's something simple and inexpensive like a camshaft position sensor or a bad fuel pressure regulator.

This is where you'll start.

Difficulty: Moderately Challenging

Step 1.
Start with the pre-check:


Do a Thorough Visual Inspection
Do a thorough visual and "hands-on" underhood inspection before starting any diagnostic procedure! You can find the cause of many problems by just looking, thereby saving yourself a lot of time.
• Has the vehicle been serviced
recently? Sometimes things get
reconnected in the wrong place, or
not at all.
• Don't take shortcuts. Inspect hoses
and wiring which may be difficult to
see due to location.
• Inspect the air cleaner and
ductwork for defects.
• Check sensors and actuators for
damage.
• Inspect ignition wires for:
- Damaged terminals.
- Split or cracked spark plug boots
- Splits, cuts or breaks in the ignition
wires and insulation.
• Inspect all vacuum hoses for:
- Correct routing. Refer to vehicle
service manual, or Vehicle Emission
Control Information (VECI)
decal located in the engine compartment.
- Pinches and kinks.
- Splits, cuts or breaks.
• Inspect wiring for:
- Contact with sharp edges.
- Contact with hot surfaces, such as
exhaust manifolds.
- Pinched, burned or chafed insulation.
- Proper routing and connections.
• Check electrical connectors for:
- Corrosion on pins.
- Bent or damaged pins.
- Contacts not properly seated in
housing.
- Bad wire crimps to terminals
-Lastly, check for water in the fuel. Pour in a can of Heet and a bottle of injector cleaner.

Step 2.
Instructions:

Check the entire fuel delivery system.

  • Relieve system pressure. Disconnect the negative battery cable and loosen the gas cap to let pressure drain from the system. Attach a dual tube pressure gauge to the test port and drain fuel into an approved container.
  • Disconnect the fuel pressure sensor vacuum hose. Check for fuel in the line. If there is fuel present in the line, the fuel delivery problem is likely caused by a faulty fuel pump pressure regulator. If there is no fuel in the line, reattach the vacuum hose and continue with the fuel delivery diagnostic.
  • Twist off the fuel pressure test port cap and attach a pressure gauge to the fuel pressure valve if one is not already connected. Reconnect the negative battery cable and turn the key to the first position. Do not start the engine.
  • Check the pressure gauge. It needs to register between 45 and 48 psi. Start the engine and let it idle. Check the gauge again. It needs to register approximately 46 psi. Leave the engine on and remove the vacuum hose. Check the gauge one last time. It needs to register approximately 50 psi. Pressure that's too high indicates a malfunctioning pressure regulator. Low pressure indicates a clogged fuel filter or a broken fuel pump that needs to be replaced.
  • Cut the engine off, relieve system pressure again and remove the negative battery cable.
  • Clean the fuel filter inlet with compressed air to remove any dirt that might come loose and contaminate the fuel supply as you remove the fuel filter. Pull the filter out at the male filter fitting and disconnect the remaining connections to the filter. Remove the filter.
  • Examine the filter for clogs and replace it if necessary. If there are no clogs, the fuel delivery problem is probably caused by a breakdown in the fuel pump itself.


DO NOT RUN OUT AND BUY ANYTHING YET! This was only the opening act.

All of the above systems are monitored by the Engine Control Module/ Powertrain Module (a.k.a. on-board computer). A diagnostic scan retrieves any inform related to the malfunctioning parts and tells you precisely what is wrong. Perform the scan diagnostic now.

Be guided by the scan diagnosis and the problem should be fixed.

Start the car and perform another scan. The reason we rescan and repair non-related codes after the engine is running is because sometime false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, e.g.,if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is okay with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.

I know that the above is wordy but I wanted to do more than just tell you that your problem is complex.

All the best,

Ben

Posted on Sep 22, 2011

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if it won`t start call a tow truck to take it to a shop. if you don`t want to spend the money for a tow you won`t want to spend the money to repair the car anyways.

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Hello, This is a tough problem to find when there are no Diagnostics. I suspect the problem is due to a term called "Heat Sink"

What this term means is that the engine compartment is getting hotter when the engine is just shut off, than when it is running. When the Tow truck moved your car, wind passed by while the Tow truck moved your vehicle. This helped cool it off regardless of when the car was towed.

A lot of times the heat shields on the Catalytic converters are rusted off. In a pursuit vehicle, they could have been knocked off. This means someone needs to look under your car to see what is missing.

The electric components like the Ignition module, coil, Relays, and fuel lines can be overheating.

Try opening your hood when you park your car at home and then go out shortly afterwards and try starting the car. If it helps, you need to find the component that is overheating and replace any missing heat shields.

I hope my solution is very helpful. You can also get FREE scans at Autozne, Advance, and Oreillys autoparts when you get a Code light.

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