Question about Cadillac DeVille

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What is platform zone module

My car is not starting. No gas to engine, but gas to pressure regulator. My battery drained and check suspension and check chrg system mess came on after I had used hazards. Batt completely drained and car died less then a mile. After I charged battery car ran for a few minutes and began to act like it was out of gas and now it won't start, but with key on I can hear fuel pump come on and off every few minutes.

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  • Expert
  • 120 Answers

Seems like the altinator is not charging the battery, charging should be more then 13 volts while engine running.

Posted on May 07, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Engine will not start

I had the same problem at 100,100 miles on my cougar, it burned up fuel pump's three times,changed ignition coil and no problems since, now i'm at 115,000

Posted on Nov 07, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: car has been sitting for awhile--gas tank was less

MASS AIR FLOW OR MAP SENSER

Posted on Mar 04, 2009

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 Chevy Malibu, 89,000 miles, 3.1 engine, won't start

CLICK HERE for the injector schematic.
CLICK HERE for the Ignition schematic.

Since the PCM uses info gatheres from the crank and cam sensors to calculate ignition - and there are no OBD codes - in all likelihood, the PCM itself is bad.

The Ignition Module, also transmits to the PCM.

It appears after all your testing - that the PCM is at fault.

It does not error report on itself (unfortunately).

The ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). No adjustment is necessary (distributorless ignition) or possible.

Please see the following....

The ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). No adjustment is necessary or possible.
The engines covered by this manual are equipped with distributorless ignitions, ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as applicable. No adjustments are possible. If ignition timing is not within specification, there is a fault in the engine control system. Diagnose and repair the problem as necessary.
Ignition timing is the measurement, in degrees of crankshaft rotation, of the point at which the spark plugs fire in each of the cylinders. It is measured in degrees before or after Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke.
Ideally, the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder will be ignited by the spark plug just as the piston passes TDC of the compression stroke. If this happens, the piston will be at the beginning of the power stroke just as the compressed and ignited air/fuel mixture forces the piston down and turns the crankshaft. Because it takes a fraction of a second for the spark plug to ignite the mixture in the cylinder, the spark plug must fire a little before the piston reaches TDC. Otherwise, the mixture will not be completely ignited as the piston passes TDC and the full power of the explosion will not be used by the engine.
The timing measurement is given in degrees of crankshaft rotation before the piston reaches TDC (BTDC). If the setting for the ignition timing is 10 BTDC, each spark plug must fire 10 degrees before each piston reaches TDC. This only holds true, however, when the engine is at idle speed. The combustion process must be complete by 23° ATDC to maintain proper engine performance, fuel mileage, and low emissions.
As the engine speed increases, the pistons go faster. The spark plugs have to ignite the fuel even sooner if it is to be completely ignited when the piston reaches TDC. Spark timing changes are accomplished electronically by the engine and ignition control computers.
If the ignition is set too far advanced (BTDC), the ignition and expansion of the fuel in the cylinder will occur too soon and tend to force the piston down while it is still traveling up. This causes pre ignition or -knocking and pinging-. If the ignition spark is set too far retarded, or after TDC (ATDC), the piston will have already started on its way down when the fuel is ignited. The piston will be forced down for only a portion of its travel, resulting in poor engine performance and lack of power.
Timing marks or scales can be found on the rim of the crankshaft pulley and the timing cover. The marks on the pulley correspond to the position of the piston in the No. 1 cylinder. A stroboscopic (dynamic) timing light is hooked onto the No. 1 cylinder spark plug wire (2.2L engine only, on the 2.4L engines, special adapters are needed) . Every time the spark plug fires, the timing light flashes. By aiming the light at the timing marks while the engine is running, the exact position of the piston within the cylinder can be easily read (the flash of light makes the mark on the pulley appear to be standing still). Proper timing is indicated when the mark and scale are in specified alignment.


WARNING When checking timing with the engine running, take care not to get the timing light wires tangled in the fan blades and/or drive belts.

The engines covered by this manual are equipped with distributorless ignitions, ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as applicable. No adjustments are possible. If ignition timing is not within specification, there is a fault in the engine control system. Diagnose and repair the problem as necessary.




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Posted on Aug 18, 2009

  • 17 Answers

SOURCE: Won't start after installing new fuel pump. After

HAVE YOU TRIED CHECKING THE FUEL PUMP RELAY

Posted on Aug 31, 2009

vetteman3002
  • 2299 Answers

SOURCE: 1989 Bronco II have replaced fuel

Is it the 2.8? I am just thinking of what cycles and would cause the engine to run bad. The fuel relay would not be the problem. Because if it doesn't close, then the engine does not run at all. The power distribution box is a possibility. But I am thinking about what you are saying the problem cycles. That is the strange thing. I think that the cycling has to do with pressure in the fuel tank. Have you tried changing the gas cap? That could be all that the problem is. But it could also be the vent in the fuel tank. The reason why I am thinking this is because the fuel tank builds pressure from the gas sloshing around and when it builds up too much pressure then it relieves. What do you think?

Posted on Dec 15, 2010

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2 Answers

94 chrysler town and country stalls after getting to a normal temp but wont start back up till its cooled down.


The crank position sensor could be bad.Check the injectors & fuel pressure regulator with this test.Hold the gas pedal to the floor while you crank the engine.Does it start??If yes,the fuel pressure regulator is bad or you've got a internally leaking fuel injector.Let the engine idle,pull the vacuum hose off the regulator and see if gas is inside the hose or gas is seeping from the regulator vacuum port.If yes,the regulator is bad.You can shut the engine off,wait 5 minutes then pull all of the spark plugs.If a plug is wet with fuel,that cylinders injector is leaking.A bad ignition module or ect sensor can also cause a no start.You can do the following test when the problem is occurring.Remove the air intake hose from the throttle body,spray carb cleaner or starting fluid into the TB opening, reinstall the hose,try starting the engine. If it starts and runs for a few seconds then dies,you've got a no fuel problem. If it doesn't start at all,you've got a no spark problem.

Oct 12, 2015 | Chrysler Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

1995 isuzu pickup wont start sometimes


Fuel Pressure Regulator is located on the fuel rail.


1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.

3. Remove the air cleaner outlet tube(s).

4. Remove any necessary components to access the pressure regulator.

5. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the pressure regulator.

6. Remove the pressure regulator attaching screws.

7. Remove the pressure regulator from the fuel rail.

To Install

8. Discard the O-rings on the pressure regulator and replace them with new ones.

9. Lubricate the O-rings with clean engine oil.

10. Install the regulator into the fuel rail and tighten the retaining screws.

11. Connect the vacuum hose to the regulator.

12. Install any components removed to access the regulator.

13. Install the air cleaner outlet tube(s).

14. Connect the negative battery cable.

Jul 03, 2012 | Isuzu Pickup Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1992 mercury sable will turn over but wont start


Make sure battery has a full charge. If it cranks good but won't start, check the basics. Have a helper crank it while you visually check for spark at the spark plugs, if spark everywhere, use a gage and check proper fuel pressure. I looked at info for the 3.8L engine, 35--40 psi. Also, after you build fuel pressure, turn off the key, see if fuel pressure holds for a bit? If the pressure drops like a rock, check for fuel pressure leak. Check the vac line for fuel pressure regulator, if it has gas in it, the regulator is faulty, or a leaking fuel injector. The pressure could also drain back through fuel pump.
Also, check fuel injector pulse, engine cranking. Any applicable trouble codes?
Smell of the crankcase oil dipstick, if it smells like gas, either you don't change oil and filter very often or the engine is running very rich for some reason.

Jun 24, 2017 | 1992 Mercury Sable

1 Answer

Im gettin 11.9 mpg in 92 sonata 6 cylinder(3.0) I was told it could b my brain box. Would that be the engine control unit or the engine control module?


You have an engine control unit, but that is rarely the problem. Is your engine light on? If yes, let me know and I'll send procedures for extracting the trouble codes that may identify the problem.
If no engine light, the first thing I would check is the fuel pressure regulator. Pull the vacuum hose off the regulator and plug it with a golf tee. Start the engine and see if gas comes out the vacuum port on the regulator. Is indicates a busted diaphram. Even if the diaphram is good, I would then borrow a fuel pressure gage and run the tests below to make sure the regulator is working to keep the pressure at 39psi. Let me know if this isn't it or you have more questions.

  1. Relieve fuel system pressure.
  2. Turn ignition switch OFF and disconnect the negative battery cable.
When disconnecting any fuel system hoses, always place a shop towel to prevent residual fuel from spaying.
  1. Disconnect the high pressure hose at the delivery side. Using a fuel pressure gauge and adapter (09353-24000 or equivalent), install the adapter to the delivery pipe.
  2. Connect the negative battery cable.
  3. Activate the fuel pump, by applying battery voltage to the fuel pump drive terminal. Check that there is no leakage from pressure gauge or connections.

jturcotte_284.gif


Fig. Fig. 12: Fuel pump drive terminal location-Excel

  1. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the pressure regulator and plug.


jturcotte_285.gif


Fig. Fig. 13: Fuel pump drive terminal location-Sonata

  1. Operate the engine at idle and check the fuel pressure. Fuel pressure should be 47-50 psi (330-350 kPa).
  2. Reconnect the vacuum hose to the pressure regulator. With the engine idling, fuel pressure should be 39 psi (270 kPa).
  3. If the specified values are not met, make the necessary repairs, as indicated in the diagnosis chart.
  4. Shut the engine OFF. Check that the fuel pressure is maintained at the value indicated in Step 8, for approximately 5 minutes.
  5. Relieve the fuel pressure.
  6. Remove the fuel pressure gauge and reconnect the high pressure hose, using a new O-ring.
  7. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Nov 25, 2010 | 1992 Hyundai Sonata

2 Answers

Having trouble starting my 2005 mercury mariner. Geting a battery drain and have to put my foot down all the way on the gas petal to start it. Could this be a starter going or the fuel pump?


It can be the TPS, throttle position sensor or you need to check the fuel pressure between the fuelrail and the regulator. If it is low then check the pressure to the regulator for a weak pump. A lot of times a bad fuel regulator will allow the fuel to bleed down overnight.

The Battery drain problem should be a priority. You will need to eliminate circuits with a meter on the battery terminals. It can be a bad Ignition switch. Just unplug the Ignition switch and see if the drain stops.

Nov 01, 2010 | 2005 Mercury Mariner

1 Answer

Starting car is problem. it will start after maybe two trys. i have tried engine cleaner, but still it is slow starting,. battery is good, thats been checked.


When you have an engine that is hard to start or the engine takes longer than normal to start, with a fuel injected engine it will normally be caused by a fuel problem. Another problem would be slow cranking of the engine because of a low battery, I would check all of the fuel related problems if the engine seems to crank normally. There are a few things to check. First pull the fuel filter off and wipe it off so you don't get gas in your mouth and try to blow through one of the fuel connections on the filter. If you can't blow through it the filter is pluged and needs to be replaced. A plugged fuel filter can cause hard starting and can also damage your fuel pump. The next thing to do when everything is put back on the car is to check the fuel system for bleed down. You need to locate the fuel pressure test connection on the engine. Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the connection and start the engine, then turn the ignition off. With the engine off the pressure should read and stay between 30psi and 40psi, to be sure of the pressure you will have get the spec's on the engine you have. The main thing you will be looking for is to make sure the pressure doesn't start bleeding down in to direction of zero after a few minutes or maybe even immediately. If you see the pressure start to bleed down you have a problem. There are two problems that normally cause the pressure to bleed down. One is a bad check valve in the fuel pump, the other is a bad fuel pressure regulator. The main thing that happens with a fuel pressure regulator is the diaphram inside starts leaking. When that happens sometimes it will leak fuel into the intake manifold through the vaccuum hose connection to the intake manifold. To check for a fuel leak through the vacuum hose connection, locate the vacuum hose on the fuel pressure regulator and pull the hose from either the manifold connection or from the connection at the fuel reguator. If you see any gas at all the fuel regulator is leaking and must be replaced. If it is a slow leak from the regulator you might have to start the engine with the vacuum hose disconnected and look for a leak from the hose. If you don't find anything wrong with the regulator the next problem area would be fuel pressure bleeding back into the gas tank because of a bad check valve in the fuel pump. If this is the problem the fuel pump would have to be replaced. My first guess as to what is causing your problem would be the fuel pressure regualtor although I would definately want to make sure the fuel filter is not plugged. (Please Note) The fuel pressure regulator is located in the intake manifold area of the engine. The fuel pump is located in the gas tank. The fuel filter is located usually somewhere under the car.

Aug 24, 2010 | 2001 Pontiac Grand Am SE

1 Answer

I need to change my fuel filter in my 98 Dodge Intrepid. I know I need to drop the gas tank, but I'll be honest I've never did this before. I would like to have pictures to see what it looks like.


300M, Concorde, Intrepid, LHS, 1998-2004 - Fuel Filter Removal & Installation The fuel filter mounts to the frame rail in front of the fuel tank. The inlet and outlet ends of the filter are marked for installation purposes. Install the fuel filter making certain that it is properly orientated.

NOTE The fuel filter is part of the fuel pressure regulator mounted on the fuel pump module.
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
  3. Lower the fuel tank.
  4. Remove or disconnect the following:
    Negative battery cable Purge and vent lines Fuel line from the pressure regulator Filter/regulator by pushing in the locking tab, turning the regulator to unlock it and pulling the it straight up
To install:


7c8fc38.jpg

Fig. Cut away view of the fuel filter/pressure regulator
  1. Push the fuel filter/regulator into the fuel pump module and turn to lock it into position.
  2. Connect the fuel lines and install the tank.
  3. Start the engine, check for leaks and repair if necessary.


Fuel Pump - Removal & Installation
The in-tank fuel pump module contains the fuel pump and pressure regulator which adjusts fuel system pressure. Fuel pump voltage is supplied through the fuel pump relay.

The fuel pump is serviced as part of the fuel pump module. The fuel pump module is installed in the top of the fuel tank and contains the electric fuel pump, fuel pump reservoir, inlet strainer fuel gauge sending unit, fuel supply and return line connections and the pressure regulator. The inlet strainer, fuel pressure regulator and level sensor are the only serviceable items. If the fuel pump requires service, replace the fuel pump module.
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    Negative battery cable Fuel tank
  4. Clean the top of the tank to remove any loose dirt.
    Fuel lines from the fuel pump module by squeezing the quick-connect fitting with thumb and forefinger

    4edc7fc.jpg


    Fig. Using special tool 6856, remove the fuel pump module locknut
    Fuel pump module electrical connector from the top of the fuel pump module
  5. Using special tool 6856, remove the fuel pump locknut by turning it counterclockwise.
    CAUTION The fuel reservoir of the fuel pump module does not empty out when the tank is drained. The fuel in the reservoir may spill out when the module is removed.
  6. Remove the fuel pump and O-ring from the tank and discard the O-ring.
To install:
  1. Thoroughly clean all parts. Wipe the seal area of the tank clean. Place a new O-ring on the ledge between the tank threads and the pump module opening.
  2. Position the fuel pump module in the tank. Be sure the alignment tab on the underside of the pump module flange sits in the corresponding notch in the fuel tank.
  3. While holding the fuel pump module in place install the locking ring and torque to 40 inch lbs. (5 Nm) using special tool 6856 or a spanner-type tool.
  4. Install or connect the following:
    Fuel tank Fuel pump module electrical connector Negative battery cable
  5. Fill the fuel tank with fuel. Install the fuel filler cap. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position to pressurize the system. Check the fuel system for leaks.
Hope this helped.

May 11, 2010 | 1998 Dodge Intrepid

1 Answer

1996 cavalier; When I start the car; it smells like gas when the heater is on. The man at mufflerman changed the catalitic converter for $400 but it's still the same Betty


Your fuel pressure regulator may have gone bad and needs to be replaced if it's gas you smell. I am guessing you mean gasoline and not exhaust gas or oil burning. When the fuel pressure goes bad, it tends to leak gas. There is a rubber diaphragm that breaks and that is when the gas starts to leak on to the engine giving you the smell of gas only when the engine is running. The fuel pressure regulator is located on the fuel injector rail and can be replaced in 10 min with common tools and cost around $15.00 at Auto Zone or NAPA auto parts store. Good luck and keep me posted, be glad to help you get your car running 100% again soon and be safe.

Jan 06, 2010 | 1996 Chevrolet Cavalier

2 Answers

Have gas in engine oil


HI, this unfortunate leakage of gas into your oil is being caused be a faulty fuel pressure regulator. there is a diaphragm in the fuel pressure regulator assembly that may have ruptured, in return, sending small amounts of fuel into the intake, via the vacuum line that connects the regulator to the intake.

simply replacing the fuel pressure regulator will fix this issue.

Please rate and god bless:)

Apr 18, 2009 | Ford Ranger Cars & Trucks

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