Question about Cars & Trucks
Without knowing what vehicle this is for makes it very difficult, if not impossible to solve. Most likely you have a bad motor. Could be a bad switch. You're going to have to remove the door panel to get to the motor. Best way to test is to out 12 volts to the motor
Posted on May 06, 2013
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had the same problem with now power to windows, mirrors and seat. The common soulution is the orange and or black wire in the boot have broken between the door and post.
Posted on Dec 07, 2008
Sounds familiar - I pulled the rubber boot back and found the black wire was broken. I stripped the wires and put on a couple bullet connectors (terminators) and all is good. Just wish I would have seen this post before I took the door panel off... Oh well...
Posted on Dec 18, 2008
Check the fuses first. If that dont work take the door apart the wiers have problably lost the connection due to kids and chocolate.
Gotta love them tho.
Posted on Jan 27, 2009
I promise this works 'cause I used it:
Put the key in the ignition, move the intermittent wiper control to the middle possition and then turn the key on.
just to clarify it's the ring that controlls the intermittent wiper speed and not the int / low/ high switch.
What this does is it resets the multiplex unit that controlls the accessories such as the power door locks. This problem usually happens once the battery has been removed or disconnected and reconnected. Every once in a while the multiplex systems lock up. Especially on the 98s. That's how you wake em up.
Posted on Mar 31, 2009
SOURCE: door locks and power window
Just did this procedure I got from coloradofans.com forums:
"any type of power/voltage change seems to trigger this issue
The most common symptom is power locks fail and only the driver window quits, however that is on the extended cab.
Steps to fix and it works every time.
take door panel off driver's door
Disconnect the wiring attached to window and power lock control unit
disconnect battery cables
connect the negative to the positive cable(((NO BATTERY CONNECTED)))
This will act to short residual voltage in the system
5 minutes later
place the key in the ignition and turn to the run position
connect the wiring to the window/lock controller
connect the negative cable to the battery
then the positive
open drivers side door
turn key to the off position((do not remove yet)) you should get a series of dings through speakers telling you the key is still in the ignition
once it begins dinging pull the key out and you should hear the door lock solenoids trigger and the windows should work." - Coloradofans.com forums
Posted on Mar 20, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Dec 26, 2015 | Cars & Trucks
May 29, 2014 | Mitsubishi Galant Cars & Trucks
May 04, 2014 | 2000 Chevrolet Blazer
Nov 09, 2017 | 2008 Chrysler Town & Country
Sep 11, 2011 | 2004 Saab 9-3
Mar 15, 2011 | 2005 Ford F-150
Dec 28, 2010 | 2004 GMC Canyon
May 23, 2009 | 1999 Dodge Caravan
Apr 04, 2009 | 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Nov 25, 2008 | 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee
May 25, 2018 | Cars & Trucks
19 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!