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Country clipper Bleeding air off the hydro. Transmission

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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emissionwiz
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SOURCE: bleeding air from antifreeze 3.8. 1998 town country lxi

You can do it by the generic method as the bleeder is nearly imposs to reach.

o This is the generic method to purge air from the cooling system.
Use a floor jack and raise the front of the car as high as possible, then fill the coolant recovery tank full and run the engine until it reaches the high end of normal zone on gauge, do not overheat the engine, then shut the engine down and run cold water over the radiator core, this will self bleed the system of air and the coolant will be pulled from the recovery tank to fill the void, repeat as necessary, never let the recovery tank run dry or more air will be pulled into the system
.

Posted on Feb 19, 2012

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1 Answer

Loader stuck in down position, the joy stick will not raise or lower loader. The joy stick will work the tilt movme


didnt specify type of machine( generic answer)some machines have an electrical assist joy stick check switchs if hydraulic check the r check fluid level in the hydraulics the tilt uses less fluid to the piston than the lift arms ----check the hydro lines and connections doesnt happen all the time but try bleeding lift lines air or debris in lines

Sep 15, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 93 ford ranger 4.0. can not get clutch pressure after put transmission back in.


You still have air in the system and it may take a lot of bleeding and pumping to get i9t working again. The bleeder is at the bottom and the air wants to rise to the top. Sometimes just pumping continuously will do it.

Sep 03, 2013 | 2001 Chrysler Town & Country

1 Answer

2002 chevy silverado 2500 hd with duramax no brake or steering power. do I need to replace or repair hydro booster?


It definitely sounds like the hydro booster. There are videos on YouTube that shows you how to do either. Depending on your skill level will determine which one you do. The main issue is bleeding the air out of the booster. It can be difficult. You will also need to bleed your brakes completely afterward. GMs are notorious for having the hydro boosters die on them.

Sep 09, 2017 | 2002 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD

2 Answers

How to bleed vaccum booster brakes


Shouldn't be anything different.
Hydro-boost is different as far as the boost part goes.

Dec 08, 2012 | 1992 Ford F150 SuperCab

1 Answer

2001 chevy tahoe vacum hoeses for power steering


Hello! There are power steering fluid in/out hoses but no vacuum lines...It sounds as if the pump needs to be bled of air or the belt is loose...Belt should move about 1/2 to 3/4"...Bleeding is as follows...
Guru...saailer

    ImportantPower steering fluid level must be maintained throughout bleed procedure.
  1. Fill pump reservoir with fluid to minimum system level, FULL COLD level, or middle of hash mark on cap stick fluid level indicator.
  2. ImportantWith hydro-boost only, the oil level will appear falsely high if the hydro-boost accumulator is not fully charged. Do not apply the brake pedal with the engine OFF. This will discharge the hydro-boost accumulator.
  3. If equipped with hydro-boost, fully charge the hydro-boost accumulator using the following procedure:
  4. 2.1. Start the engine.2.2. Firmly apply the brake pedal 10-15 times.2.3. Turn the engine OFF.
  5. Raise the vehicle until the front wheels are off the ground. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
  6. Key on engine OFF, turn the steering wheel from stop to stop 12 times.
  7. Vehicles equipped with hydro-boost systems or longer length power steering hoses may require turns up to 15 to 20 stop to stops.
  8. Verify power steering fluid level per operating specification. Refer to Checking and Adding Power Steering Fluid .
  9. Start the engine. Rotate steering wheel from left to right. Check for sign of cavitation or fluid aeration (pump noise/whining).
  10. Verify the fluid level. Repeat the bleed procedure if necessary.

May 03, 2012 | 2001 Chevrolet Tahoe

1 Answer

My brakes and power-steering are not working. The brake pedal is hard, but the brakes will not engage. The power steering was not working at the same time. It has brake fluid, but when I took the power...


Yes, your brakes are boosted by the power steering pump rather than by vacuum. I don't think it's air in the system. More likely your pump has failed, but you can try bleeding the pump. Here is a procedure from autozone.com:

Observe the following:
Use clean, new power steering fluid type only Hoses touching the frame, body or engine may cause system noise. Verify that the hoses do not touch any other part of the vehicle. Loose connections may not leak, but could allow air into the steering system. Verify that all hose connections are tight.


NOTE Power steering fluid level must be maintained throughout bleed procedure.

  1. Fill pump reservoir with fluid to minimum system level, FULL COLD level, or middle of hash mark on cap stick fluid level indicator.
    NOTE With hydro-boost only, the oil level will appear falsely high if the hydro-boost accumulator is not fully charged. Do not apply the brake pedal with the engine OFF . This will discharge the hydro-boost accumulator.
  2. If equipped with hydro-boost, fully charge the hydro-boost accumulator using the following procedure:
    1. Start the engine.
    2. Firmly apply the brake pedal 10-15 times.
    3. Turn the engine OFF

  3. Raise the vehicle until the front wheels are off the ground.
  4. With key in the ON position and the engine OFF , turn the steering wheel from stop to stop 12 times. Vehicles equipped with hydro-boost systems or longer length power steering hoses may require turns up to 15 to 20 stop to stops.
  5. Verify power steering fluid level per operating specification.
  6. Start the engine. Rotate steering wheel from left to right. Check for sign of cavitation or fluid aeration (pump noise/whining).
  7. Verify the fluid level. Repeat the bleed procedure if necessary.

Observe the following:



Use clean, new power steering fluid type only Hoses touching the frame, body or engine may cause system noise. Verify that the hoses do not touch any other part of the vehicle. Loose connections may not leak, but could allow air into the steering system. Verify that all hose connections are tight.
NOTE Power steering fluid level must be maintained throughout bleed procedure.
  1. Fill pump reservoir with fluid to minimum system level, FULL COLD level, or middle of hash mark on cap stick fluid level indicator.
    NOTE With hydro-boost only, the oil level will appear falsely high if the hydro-boost accumulator is not fully charged. Do not apply the brake pedal with the engine OFF . This will discharge the hydro-boost accumulator.
  2. If equipped with hydro-boost, fully charge the hydro-boost accumulator using the following procedure:
    1. Start the engine.
    2. Firmly apply the brake pedal 10-15 times.
    3. Turn the engine OFF

  3. Raise the vehicle until the front wheels are off the ground.
  4. With key in the ON position and the engine OFF , turn the steering wheel from stop to stop 12 times. Vehicles equipped with hydro-boost systems or longer length power steering hoses may require turns up to 15 to 20 stop to stops.
  5. Verify power steering fluid level per operating specification.
  6. Start the engine. Rotate steering wheel from left to right. Check for sign of cavitation or fluid aeration (pump noise/whining).
  7. Verify the fluid level. Repeat the bleed procedure if necessary.

Oct 24, 2010 | 2005 Chevrolet Silverado

1 Answer

What is the sequence to bleed the brakes on a 1994 Chevy Suburban?


Bleeding the Brakes
EXCEPT HYDRO-BOOST OR ABS(see Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4)
To bleed the brakes on a vehicle equipped with ABS, please refer to the ABS bleeding procedure in this section.
The brake system must be bled when any brake line is disconnected or there is air in the system.
Never bleed a wheel cylinder when a drum is removed.
  1. Clean the master cylinder of excess dirt and remove the cylinder cover and the diaphragm.
  2. Fill the master cylinder to the proper level. Check the fluid level periodically during the bleeding process and replenish it as necessary. Do not allow the master cylinder to run dry, or you will have to start over.
  3. Before opening any of the bleeder screws, you may want to give each one a shot of penetrating solvent. This reduces the possibility of breakage when they are unscrewed.
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Fig. 1: Connect one end of a clear plastic tube to the bleeder screw and submerge the other end in clean brake fluid

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Fig. 2: Have an assistant pump, then hold in the brake pedal, while you bleed each wheel

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Fig. 3: Using the combination valve depressor-R/V Series

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Fig. 4: Using the combination valve depressor-C/K Series
  1. Attach a length of vinyl hose to the bleeder screw of the brake to be bled. Insert the other end of the hose into a clear jar half full of clean brake fluid, so that the end of the hose is beneath the level of fluid. The correct sequence for bleeding is to work from the brake farthest from the master cylinder to the one closest; right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
  2. The combination valve must be held open during the bleeding process. A clip, tape, or other similar tool (or an assistant) will hold the metering pin in.
  3. Depress and release the brake pedal three or four times to exhaust any residual vacuum.
  4. Have an assistant push down on the brake pedal and hold it down. Open the bleeder valve slightly. As the pedal reaches the end of its travel, close the bleeder screw and release the brake pedal. Repeat this process until no air bubbles are visible in the expelled fluid.
Make sure your assistant presses the brake pedal to the floor slowly. Pressing too fast will cause air bubbles to form in the fluid.
  1. Repeat this procedure at each of the brakes. Remember to check the master cylinder level occasionally. Use only fresh fluid to refill the master cylinder, not the stuff bled from the system.
  2. When the bleeding process is complete, refill the master cylinder, install its cover and diaphragm, and discard the fluid bled from the brake system.
HYDRO-BOOSTThe system should be bled whenever the booster is removed and installed.
  1. Fill the power steering pump until the fluid level is at the base of the pump reservoir neck. Disconnect the battery lead from the distributor.
Remove the electrical lead to the fuel solenoid terminal on the injection pump before cranking the engine.
  1. Jack up the front of the car, turn the wheels all the way to the left, and crank the engine for a few seconds.
  2. Check steering pump fluid level. If necessary, add fluid to the "ADD" mark on the dipstick.
  3. Lower the car, connect the battery lead, and start the engine. Check fluid level and add fluid to the "ADD" mark, as necessary. With the engine running, turn the wheels from side to side to bleed air from the system. Make sure that the fluid level stays above the internal pump casting.
  4. The Hydro-Boost system should now be fully bled. If the fluid is foaming after bleeding, stop the engine, let the system set for one hour, then repeat the second part of Step 4.
The preceding procedures should be effective in removing the excess air from the system, however sometimes air may still remain trapped. When this happens the booster may make a gulping noise when the brake is applied. Lightly pumping the brake pedal with the engine running should cause this noise to disappear. After the noise stops, check the pump fluid level and add as necessary.


Hope helps with this (remember comment and rated this).

Jun 19, 2010 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2001 town & country limited blows cold air intermittenly. happens with both front and rear. Changed thermostat, radiator cap, both needed anyway. Temp gages are fine. hoses in and out of heater core...


If the hoses to the rad is hot the chances are there is an air lock in the heating core. The best place to bleed the air out is at the top. If there is no provision for bleeding air you will have to slacken the hose and manipulate it to allow water/air out.
Make sure for safety's sake the engine is cold to prevent scalding yourself. Have an assistant topping up the engine rad while you are working on the bleeding operation

May 20, 2017 | 2001 Chrysler Town & Country

1 Answer

I have 1975 international B 1700 I have replaced brake shoes wheel cylnders brake lines hydro vac checked vacum 17 #s and have no brakes the pedle can be pumped up and is rock hard with no stopping power I...


hte brakes may need to be bled also check for air coming out of the lines while bleeding yo may see air pockets haqve you checked to be sure that the master cylender is any good?

Oct 08, 2009 | Ford F-450 Cars & Trucks

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