Question about Cars & Trucks
I was driving my 2001 Nissan Altima when I heard a loud pop and smelled coolant. Upon further inspection I found a large crack on the top of the radiator in front of either the sending or return line. I am fine with replacing the radiator but am concerned about the underlying problem. The head gasket was recently done, the coolant is clean as is the oil. Was the problem from overpressurization? and what caused it?
16 yr old radiator...replace it and the radiator cap also. drive safe
Posted on Jul 18, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The Problem, My friend, is a leaking oil cooler. this item is mounted, inside the engine, under the intake manifold. The cooler or the connections are bad. Coolant flows through the cooler, if it brakes then the oil will contaminate your coolant and make a mess.!! Have it checked. Must times is the seals at the pipe to cooler flange connector. will need new seals.. Hope this helps.
Posted on Jan 16, 2009
If forced to guess, I'd have to say head gasket...but, could be cracked head also (can't really tell unless you tear it down, but to do the repair, either way that's what you need to do.) If residue was reddish, it could be the trans cooler in the radiator but it's not, so rule out radiator. Make sure you flush out system and change hoses during job ... oil softens them and makes them prone to failure. Even if head does not appear to be cracked, have it checked for warpage, sometimes they twist when overheated. Cracked blocks are rare...I would not be concerned unless engine was frozen during winter.
Posted on Apr 15, 2009
Check the lower intake gasket again the new gaskets that are being use made out of plastic with rubber port seals sometimes don't seal right I still used gasket sealer with the new plastic gasket even if it has rubber seals. MY 4.2 v6 had that problem but I went ahead and replaced the head gaskets also just to cover all the bases. And my F-150 has 210,000 miles on it. Make sure you tight the bolts I know it probably calls for something like 8 ft lbs which to me is not tight enough. Double it.
Posted on Apr 18, 2009
Back to what I said before, only perhaps it didn't get really hot. Only two major causes of oil burning. 1. rings and cylinder walls are worn or 2. bearings are a bit out of clearance and throwing more oil on the cylinder walls than the oil rings can deal with. Other reason should have been taken care of when head was done: valve guides & seals. You can still read good compression with certain conditions. a more accurate test is a cylinder leakdown test. On another idea, if one cylinder was being washed down by coolant, it may have unseated the rings. sometimes they recover from this, sometimes not (likely in the cylinder with warped valves. Check that plug for oil fouling...could be where miss is.
Posted on May 24, 2009
Typically would not overheat until enough coolant was lost. Find out if they mag fluxed the heads, or had it done. A lot of shops rebuild without doing this step as it's expensive. If they got a rebuilt head, again they need to know if it was mag-fluxed.
It's harder to mag flux the block while in the vehicle and assembled.
Posted on Dec 12, 2009
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