Question about 1998 Ford F150 Regular Cab

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Brake master cylinder

I had the brakes at the changed, then there was almost no brakes. they have adjust the pedal in side the vehicle. the brakes was there but it got stuck. now they want to change the brake master cylinder and says that they cannot only change the seals inside they need to change the whole cyl because there as setting thats need to be done only by ford if you change the seals on the cylinder. I need to know if this is the truth.

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Someyimes if the MC. level gets too low, air bubbles can get trapped in the hydraulic control unit for the ABS. and it won't matter how much you bleed the brakes, that bubble will b stuck and will cause spongy/no pedal. it this happens, only way to get it out is ABS service bleed with a professional scan tool (ones at oreilys won't cut it) to cycle the valves then re bleed system. most shops charge under $150 for this...worth a shot

Posted on Aug 02, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

txkjun
  • 409 Answers

SOURCE: 1992 Ford F350 Dually Diesel Truck Brake System problem.

Adjust your rear brake shoes. Then rebleed the system. Start at the master cylinder Bleed master first then the wheel furthest away from the master (right rear then left rear then right front then left front. Do that and your pedal should be good.

Posted on Dec 30, 2008

redbeard00
  • 957 Answers

SOURCE: just replaced master cylinder on 1990 aerostar and bled the brakes, still the pedal goes to floor and i have no brakes

Did you bench bleed the master cyl. before installing it? then when you installed the new master, did you bleed all 4 points? If yes, then check all for points for leaking caliper/s and leaking wheel cylinder/s. If the van has ABS, check the valve body for a bleeder screw and see if air bleeds out of it. If you've checked everything twice and did everything right then your new master cyl. may be defective.

Posted on Apr 29, 2009

  • 21 Answers

SOURCE: brake pedal keeps creeping down, but there are no leaks.

check your brake booster and also make sure the rear shoes are adjusted up where they belong. If they are not adjusted up the brake pedal will go farther and farther toward the floor and get spongier as they go farther out of adjustment. If you adjust them up and they back down again change your self-adjusters and springs. They are readily available at your local parts store.

Posted on May 10, 2009

duane_wong
  • 6826 Answers

SOURCE: 1997 ford escort brake line diagram

The LF and RR are in an independent circuit of the RF, LR wheels. The master cylinder already has the lines hooked up in a way that if you trace the lines, you can make your own diagram.

Posted on Aug 03, 2010

  • 4336 Answers

SOURCE: 99 ford explorer brake pedal goes to floor.

Not likely that the booster is an issue. The booster would not be able to overcome the brake fluid compression.
First open and inspect all brakes for leaks, adjustment, etc. Check all brake lines.
So if no leaks, did the fluid go low in the MC? If so, pad consumption would eat more than a MC reservoir of fluid, and not require MC replacement, but rebleeding and top up of fluid. If the pads are worn, and you replace them, often this will expel air back through the MC.

If you determine the MC is faulty, bench bleed the new one before install, or you will have lots of problems getting air out....

Posted on Mar 03, 2011

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1 Answer

Brake pedal


Did you ensure that the master brake cylinder was topped up properly whilst you bled the back brake shoes?

If you did so and the brakes are free of air in the lines, then you still have to adjust the brake shoes to their operating position. Secure vehicle from movement. Jack back wheels of the ground, support with jack stands. Remove the rubber grommets that covers brake adjustment wheels. Turn star wheel adjuster with special adjustment tool or a wide blade screw driver. Lock the wheels with the adjustments, push in brake pedal until you have pressure, back off adjustments until wheel runs freely. you should have plenty of pedal now. Make sure master is at the right level at all times.

If you don't have pedal now then I would suggest you still have air in the brake lines.. If you pump the brakes until you have pressure and the pedal feels spongy , then you still have air in the line somewhere. Bleed until air is removed.

Mar 21, 2014 | Isuzu Rodeo Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Replace brake booster


  • Slide the tube nut wrench over the brake line to the master cylinder connection. The master cylinder is normally on the driver's side of the engine bay and mounted on the firewall. Orient the wrench so that it fits over the tube nut on the end of the brake line.
  • 2Disconnect the brake line. Turn the nut counterclockwise to remove. Note the location of each brake line. There are four lines total, and they need to be put back in the same location when reinstalling the lines. You may want to mark them with masking tape and permanent marker.

  • 3Unplug the master cylinder cap electrical plug.
  • 4Remove the brake master cylinder to brake booster bolts with a socket wrench.
  • 5Back the master cylinder off the brake booster.
  • 6Unbolt the bolts holding the brake booster to the firewall on your vehicle.
  • 7Pull the cotter pin out of the brake pedal to brake booster connecting pin with a pair of pliers. This is done inside the vehicle down in the driver side foot well.
  • 8Pull the brake pedal to brake booster connecting pin out to disconnect the brake pedal from the brake booster connecting arm.
  • 9Mark and remove the vacuum hoses on the brake booster and slide the booster off the firewall.
  • 10Install the new brake booster. Installation is the reverse of removal
  • Aug 06, 2012 | 1998 Lincoln Mark VIII

    1 Answer

    1999 corolla, brake pedal goes to the floor. how can we fix the brakes?


    is the abs light on?the abs system only effects the pedal when you are stopping quickly to activate the system. you still have a hydrualic brake pressure problem. are the rear brakes shoes or pads? rear shoes out of adjustment can cause a low brake pedal.even though the master cylinder has been replaced doesn't mean you got a good part.if the part was a remanufactered part very likely it is bad. to determine if it is the master cylinder, plug off the lines from the side off the master cylinder and hit the brake pedal. if the pedal stays up look for a problem elsewhere in the system. if the pedal drops the the master cylinder is defective.

    Jun 11, 2012 | Toyota Corolla Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    Mitsubishi delica 4x4 brake problems: hi! i have replaced all rubber parts in my brake system including master cylinder piston. hand brake self adjusting mechanism in rear brakes are functioning perfectly....


    If the pedal is spongy, then this almost always means there's still air in the system. The master cylinder may be defective, or possibly you have an expanding brake hose (unlikely given your description).

    You say you have replaced the master cylinder rubbers, which suggests that there was a problem. Replacing the rubbers won't help if the cylinder itself is corroded.

    Rebleed the brakes, starting with the rears. Ensure that the rear brake shoes are in fact adjusted out so that are LIGHTLY rubbing the drums when you turn the wheel. If the this adjustment is not done the brake pedal will give the symptoms you describe.

    Check the front brake hoses for any damage. Have someone press the pedal and check that no hose is ballooning or leaking. Replace the hose(s) if required.

    Check that the L and R calipers are not swapped. The bleed screw should be above the brake hose. Check that the caliper slides are lubricated.

    Also check your wheel bearings. If these are worn the disk wobble will move the pads way off the rotor.

    Finally, the master cylinder on your Delicia is most likely a 15/16" unit: this is cast into the side of the cylinder. Early 1990's Mitsu master cylinders are all very similar. They came in 13/16", 7/8", 15/16, 1" and 1 1/16" depending on the vehicle. Hence its possible to replace a 7/8" unit with a 1" unit and have a harder pedal.

    If rebleeding the brakes does not cure the problem, and you have the 15/16" master (or bigger), replace the master cylinder with a rebuilt one.

    SD

    Jun 27, 2011 | 1990 Mitsubishi Minivan

    1 Answer

    Hello i have a big problem of brakes for a silverado 1500 year 97 4x4. no brake pedals the pedal go down to the floor .i have to change master cylinder and to bleed the block ABS and then the 4 wheels and...


    Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder. If it's low or empty refill it and check for a leak. If the master cylinder is full of fluid the cylinder itself could be bad.

    Jun 19, 2011 | Chevrolet 1500 Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    How do you disconnect the brakebooster rod from the brake pedal on a 1998 4x4 z71chevy truck? how do you take the plastic conector off?? pics would help


    1. Remove the master cylinder from the brake booster. Use line wrenches and remove the brake lines on the master cylinder. Disconnect the electrical connector. Remove the nuts holding the master cylinder to the brake booster and remove the master cylinder. Lay it down with the line holes up to prevent leakage. The brake activator rod must be removed next---this is attached to the top of the brake pedal arm.
    2. There are two types of brake light switches. One is mounted remotely and has a button that is depressed by the brake pedal when it is released that creates an open circuit and turns the lights off. When the brake pedal is depressed, the button is released and allowed to extend, creating a completed circuit and turning the brake lights on. These are adjustable. All that needs to be done to adjust these switches is to adjust them where they are making contact with the arm of the brake pedal when the pedal is released. The second type is a switch that is directly attached to the brake pedal where the activator rod and pedal arm are attached with a through pin.
    3. Remove the bottom portion of the driver's side dash to gain access to the activator rod. Remove the clip or spring lock from the side of the pin holding the activator rod to the brake pedal. Disconnect the electrical connector to the brake light switch. Rotate the switch upward and dislodge the brake activator rod from the brake pedal arm. Remove the electrical switch. Using a long 3/8-inch drive extension with a swivel and a 15 mm socket, remove the four nuts under the dash on the firewall holding the brake booster to the firewall. Unplug the vacuum line to the booster and remove the vacuum booster from the firewall.
    4. Install the new booster, keeping the brake activator rod on the inboard side of the brake pedal arm. Go under the dash and install the nuts retaining the booster to the firewall and tighten. Install the brake switch over the brake pedal. Hold the electrical end up while the activator rod is pulled and inserted over the retaining pin on the brake pedal arm.
    5. Install the retaining clip on the retaining spring and connect the electrical connector to the switch. Install the lower dash panel. Install the vacuum hose to the brake booster. Install the master cylinder and tighten the nuts. Install the brake lines to the master cylinder and attach the electrical connector. Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder and fill as necessary.
    6. Have someone sit in the car while you loosen the front brake line on the master cylinder. Have the person helping push the brake pedal to the floor and hold it there. Once the pedal is to the floor, tighten the brake line and repeat the procedure for the rear line. Recheck the level in the master cylinder and fill with brake fluid as needed.

    Oct 29, 2010 | 1998 Chevrolet K1500

    1 Answer

    Any info on changing a brake booster on a 1996 Sierra and also help trouble shooting a master cy. Thanxlinder


    a defective master has just one common symptom, a soft sinking pedal.
    Instructions Things You'll Need:
    • Nose pliers
    • Ratchet and socket
    • Ratchet extension
    • Slip joint pliers
    • Wrench
    • New cotter pin
      Removing the Old Brake Booster
    1. Step 1 Park your car in a safe place with enough room to work around the front and driver side of the vehicle.
    2. Step 2 Locate the booster push rod connected to the brake pedal.
    3. Step 3 Remove the cotter pin securing the booster push rod pin to the brake pedal using a pair of nose pliers.
    4. Step 4 Release the push rod pin from the brake pedal and slide the push rod off the brake pedal.
    5. Step 5 Unscrew the four mounting nuts off the brake booster studs using a ratchet, ratchet extension and socket. You should be able to see the four booster studs extending through the firewall, in front of the brake pedal.
    6. Step 6 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the brake booster, working from the engine compartment. Use a pair of slip joint pliers.
    7. Step 7 Remove the two nuts holding the brake master cylinder to the brake booster. Use a wrench or ratchet and socket.
    8. Step 8 Separate the brake master cylinder from the booster just enough to make room for booster removal.
    9. Step 9 Pull the brake booster off the firewall and remove it from the vehicle.
      Installing the New Brake Booster
    10. Step 1 Set the new booster in place by sliding the push rod and four mounting studs through the mounting holes on the firewall.
    11. Step 2 Slide the brake master cylinder flange over the two mounting studs on the brake booster.
    12. Step 3 Start the two brake master cylinder mounting nuts by hand to avoid damage to the threads.
    13. Step 4 Tighten the two brake master cylinder mounting nuts using a wrench or ratchet and socket.
    14. Step 5 Connect the vacuum hose to the brake booster.
    15. Step 6 Screw the four mounting nuts to the brake booster working from inside the vehicle. Start the nuts by hand to avoid damaging the threads.
    16. Step 7 Tighten the four mounting nuts using the ratchet, ratchet extension and socket.
    17. Step 8 Position the brake booster push rod over the brake pedal and slide the push rod pin.
    18. Step 9 Install a new cotter pin to secure the booster push rod to the brake pedal

    Nov 20, 2009 | 1996 GMC Sierra

    2 Answers

    Brake pedal still goes to floor 2000 GMC Jimmy


    It's very possible to be the master cylinder, the o-rings on the piston could be worn, letting the fluid seep back through instead of getting full pressure through the lines. Could also be the brake booster.
    Try changing the master cylinder first, which is cheaper and easier, and see if there is a difference, you'll need to bleed the brakes again.
    To check the booster,
    With the engine off, pump the brakes until the pedal is hard, then hold pressure on the brake pedal and listen for air escaping, or the pedal goes slowly to the floor, Do that after the master cylinder has been changed, at least that will be eliminated.

    Sep 15, 2009 | 2000 GMC Jimmy

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    Got a weak brake pedal after a rear blake job


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    Aug 14, 2009 | 2001 Ford Super Duty F 450

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    My brakes are locking up on all four wheels on my 04 sentra.


    Your brake light switch is adjusted in all the way and is pressing on the brake pedal. This causes the brake to be slightly applied. As you drive the vehicle the brake fluid heats up and expands, the brakes will apply more and more until you see the smoke. Bottom line: your brakes are always applied at the master cylinder because something(usually the brake light switch) is out of adjustment.

    Nov 12, 2008 | 2000 Nissan Sentra

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