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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This one of two problems Number one is a Bad distributor or a bad main relay. Good Luck, contact me if you need more assistance
Posted on Dec 15, 2008
This could be a bad key. Expensive but if necassary to replace to check on the symptom of the car since no codes are being thrown. I would also say check your Idle Air Control valve and your EGR valve to make sure they are working proplery
Posted on Apr 17, 2009
Remove the lugs at the battery. Clean the posts and the lugs - then reconnect. Your battery won't charge (and the jumpers won't work) largely because of a film on the + post and lug. If you live in a hot summer area, (Arizona) the problem is especially troublesome.
Posted on Jul 15, 2009
It could be the TFI (thick film ignition) ignition module on the distributor. When it restarts warm, but dies right away, it has a cranking circuit to initially fire the engine. After that, it switches to run mode, which may be be the problem circuit. Often times, when you take the cover off a bad module, it will have a bubble in the jell where the open circuit has heated up. Heat is the enemy of all electrical components and when they get warm is when the problems show up. This is my first guess. If you have access to a fuel pressure gauge, you can hook it to the pressure tap on the fuel rail and watch for a drop in pressure. It needs around 40 psi to run. Even a clogged fuel filter causing low pressure and flow can shut you down, but it shouldn't run good cold in that case either since fuel demand is higher on cold start. I hope this points you in the right direction. If not, I'd be glad to continue assisting your diagnosis.
Posted on Sep 16, 2009
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