Question about Cars & Trucks
Clutch pedal stays to the floor its been bled.a week before i change clutch.
Okay, lets hope the clutch slave is installed correctly, is this slave internal or external. in other words can the clutch slave(the part that pushes clutch fork) be replaced with out pulling the transmission?
what year,make and model is this car? did you open the clutch line? how did you bleed the clutch?
Posted on May 05, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had the same problem with my 1995 1500 p.u.. Assuming your clutch slave cylinder is the concentric style. If not disregard. I hate that set up. what the hell was wrong with the old outside of the bell housing slave/ mechanical style fork and throw out bearing bla bla? Its because ford as well of the rest of the lovely auto makers decided long ago to make them as hard as hell to repair on you own. Ive been told theres a spsecial tool just for this bleeding task. Pobably. They make those tools to sell to us so they can further profit from us poor suckers.Also I wonder on your model if its concentric, does it have the difficult sized bleeder valve as mine did? or have they gotten a little more user friendly? doubt it. In my case as this style is a closed system I followed the bleeding intructions to a tee. That did get alot more clutch action for me, after 15 attempts.However I do believe the problem after looking and further inspection under the dash? look up under the dash and inspect your pedal rack and frame. I found mine was cracked and the cause of poor aliegnment. check for that rite away. I located another rack but before I got around to replacing it, the tranny blew, and the trucks sitting on my dads property. Its still a danmed good truck and one of these days I will get on it again. Anyway up untill the tranny blew I was never able to get more than half the distance from the pedal and besides the rack problem I would love to know the bleeding anser, that is if Im off target. Going to be up against it again when I replace that transmission. Hope this helps a little. Food for thought maybe? If you find out something more helpful post it so I will know too.
Posted on Dec 22, 2008
I had this same problem on my last 91 accord. You most likely have air in the line. I had to bleed the line for the master cylinder, and then refill the clutch popped up right off the floor. As long as it is not continuious then I would try this. All I needed was a wrench. and i didnt cost me anything. Hope this helps, if you buy the book it will show you how to do it, just look under clutch it will show you how to bleed it. Good Luck.
Posted on Mar 17, 2009
SOURCE: Abnormal clutch pedal operation
You've replaced the master, the slave, now I would check to see if the throwout fork will move by hand. If you can move the fork by hand I would say that your pressure plate and or throwout bearing are worn out. First try to just gravity bleed the system. If that doesnt work, it may be time for a clutch, pressure plate, and bearing. The pressure plate spring pushes the pedal back up and depending on how many miles and driving habit those little arms on it break off and just wear out. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Aug 19, 2009
Did you bleed the system? When you replace the the master and/or slave cylinder you have to bleed the system just as you would with brakes. There is a bleed screw on the slave cylinder. Open the bleed screw, have a helper depress and hold the clutch pedal down.Tighten the bleed screw, then release clutch. Repeat this procedure until you have removed all air from the system and the clutch pedal is firm. Keep an eye on the fluid level to avoid sucking air into the system. If you have done this, remember there is a possibility that the master or slave cylinder is defective.
Posted on Sep 06, 2009
If the car hasn't been driven for a while it could be corrosion on the fork but I think that is unlikely. I think you are right about the release bearing being jammed in the spring. If the truck has quite high mileage, it probably means a clutch job.
Posted on Feb 27, 2010
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