Question about 1996 Toyota Camry
While driving car died will not start. Fuel pump is working, coil is working, new wires, new distributor cap and rotor. Distributor and coil ohm out fine. Plugs not firing.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Replace the coil. It is shorted out. I have changed quite a few coils for the exact same symptom.
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Posted on Jan 21, 2009
SOURCE: 1994 Toyota Camry Won't start.
you should check 3 things. AIr, Fuel, and "spark"
your cars could have many problems. Ignition module, fuel injectors, Mass Airflow Sensor.
You should check into all of these 3 things.
a crank-no start could be many things.
it could even be a cam positions sensors resistance going up when the engine heats up. Cracnk- no start means testing. n like i said
The motor is getting Air, There is Fuel being put into the cylinders, and the Spark plugs are firing.
Posted on Mar 24, 2009
SOURCE: Engine won't start.
Sounds like your fuel injecters are plugged. Wouldn't do you any good to add fuel injecter cleaner to your gas if engine won't run, so you would need to remove your injectors and clean or replace them. Hope this helps: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsShelf.jsp?displayName=Fuel+Injector¤tPage=1&categoryDisplayName=Fuel+Delivery&navValue=14900120&itemId=prod61264&parentId=cat30060
Posted on Jul 30, 2009
Crank engine with distributor cap removed, is it turning?
(That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one)is it turning?
Broken timing belt or chain?
Are you getting power to the + positive side of the coil (small wires) with key on ? Hint; I use a needle pushed into the back of the plug so as not to damage the wiring.
If you have power then wiring from the ignition switch is OK. It usually is.
Hook your test light to the - negative side of the coil (one end on the - terminal and the other end on a ground). You should have power on the - side of the coil with the key on and engine off.
Crank the engine while watching the test light. Get a flashing signal at the test light when cranking?
If so and you have no spark the coil is likely dead.(don’t rely merely on resistance tests for a coil, a weak coil can test ok for resistance but still give no spark.It happens but is unusual. I learned this the hard way!)
No flashing signal?
Check continuity in all primary circuit wiring for opens.
If they are good,
It is time to check the pulse generator in the distributor. (That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one, if it doesn’t then the ECM or computer sends signal via the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor)
With the engine in non-running condition connect your A/C voltmeter to the pair of wires at the pulse generator and crank the engine. You are looking for an A/C signal that makes 4-6 volts of A/C. Got this? If so the ignition module is dead or has a bad ground. If not (more likely) you have a dead pulse generator in the distributor.
If you have three wires in the distributor signal wire you have a Hall effect sensor. I forget how to test that one. (Chrysler stuff)
If this part of the primary ignition tests ok then check wiring to ECM pinouts for opens.Wiring tests ok.ECM as last resort.
Hope this helps...........
Posted on Oct 03, 2009
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