Question about Cars & Trucks
Squealing coming from engine compartment; car then stalls. Happens intermittently. Believe we have pinpointed trouble to a component we can't identify - mounted on the air intake between the alternator and power steering, above the water pump. This component has control arms coming off both sides that appear to have come disconnected from something. Looking for a diagram that labels this component. (# on component may be 3F2E9J5513B)
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Secondary air supply failure
I have a 2005 Envoy with a 4.2..... Just recently the check engine light illuminated so I read the code after replacing the 20amp fuse labeled cigar. My OBDII connection had no power so if you plug your reader in and nothing check the fuse under the hood labeled "cigar"
After pulling the code P0410 Secondary Air Injection Malfunction I checked the operation of the air pump by removing the hose connected to the solenoid. By the way the solenoid is located on the pass side of the engine top towards the back. After pulling the hose off the solenoid I started the vehicle when it was cold and after 20 seconds or so the pump should turn on and blow air out of the hose. Once I verified the pump was operating I pulled the solenoid then placing jumpers from the Positive & Negative of the battery to the pins on the solenoid. You should be able to hear the solenoid click which says its operating. But mine did nothing so I read across the pins with an Ohm meter and verified the coil was good.
So take some good penetrating oil and fill the inside of the valve with it. You can see the plunger shaft assy in the opening and thats the area you want to fill with a good penetrating oil!!!! Let it sit for a couple of hours keeping it full of oil. The housing is aluminum and the shaft is likely to be a brass material so rust is not possible. Its caused by a buildup of carbon!! The penetrating oil will soften the carbon which in turn will free up the plunger!! MINE WORKS GREAT NOW and plus you will save around $140.00 if you were to buy it from the dealer!!! Or $80.00 aftermarket from RockAuto.com
Posted on Feb 10, 2009
Could be several things. WHICH ENGINE?.. 4 cylinder (has three belts, power steering/water pump, alternator & A/C compressor, one tensioner pully A/C compressor), The V6 2.7 (has only one belt, 1 Idler pully and 1 tensioner pully), the V6 3.5 has two belts - A/C/alternator, and power steering - there are two tensioner pullys). Noises can be caused by the belt(s) themselves, pullys, bearings, pully bearings, water pump shaft bearings (or belts/pullys rubbing up against something). Let's not forget that there is also belt(s) behind the Timing Belt cover as well as pullys and bearings associated with the timing system. You could start by removing one accy drive belt at a time (alternator, water pump, compressor, power steering, etc) to see whether or not the noise goes away in each case. If after each case, you discover the noise is still there, it's probably behind the timing belt cover (idler/tensioner pully, water pump shaft bearing, crankshaft bearing, etc.). Good Luck
Posted on Jun 30, 2009
SOURCE: 2003 Ford Taurus stalls at idle
go to autozone.com and register for free. You will then have a full free online repair manual with step-by-step directions, diagrams, troubleshooting, testing, replacing, and more. As an automechanic myself, this a wonderful site.
Posted on Jul 09, 2009
I had the same problem and apparently fixed it by mistake. I replaced the cruise control deactivation switch under the master cylinder, hoping the cruise would be fixed. Some how with that the "trac off" light went out and gave me the ability to turn it on/off from the button again. The part was $30 from the local dealer and easy to replace. Before you run out to replace the switch check the connections on the old one. It plugs in upside down which may accumulate water from puddles and things causing connection issues ( a known problem ).
Posted on Sep 23, 2009
P0505 means the whole Idle Control system, not only the IAM. Check all related sensors (i.e. crankshaft sensor). Check with a voltmeter direct at the connector of the IAM if you get any signal. Remove the IAM from the TB, connect him, let someone switch your ignition key to ON. The IAM need to drive in/out for a short time to find the right position. Hold the IAM near a hard part, that they cant drive out completely! If IAM works fine, check the fuel pressure, check and clean your TB ( if not done yet). If that doesn't work, come back again please
Posted on Oct 27, 2009
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