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Where can I get a pin out layout for my PCM for my 1997 Ford f150 4.6 v8 4x4? I need to check if my PCM is getting voltage or if my PCM took a **** on me. Please help asap!

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  • Master
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Oh no, I've been in your shoes, AutoZone has free repair manuals online. If not I may still have my printouts laying around.

Posted on May 05, 2013

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SOURCE: Hello. I hope you can

Find the fuel pump relay and check that.

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SOURCE: I have a 1997 Ford F-350 with a 7.3 diesel.

yes, pcm means powertrain control module

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emissionwiz
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SOURCE: used pcm/ecm for a 2001 Ford Expedition

1st it must be the correct engineering number, not just the same year, but the exact same number on the sticker. then it must be programmed by the dealer

Posted on Nov 03, 2009

ZJLimited
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SOURCE: I have 1997 Toyota T100

If an engine cranks but refuses to start, it lacks ignition, fuel or compression. Was it running fine but quit suddenly? The most likely causes here would be a failed fuel pump, ignition module or broken overhead cam timing belt. Has the engine been getting progressively harder to start? If yes, consider the engine's maintenance and repair history.

A good starter will normally draw 60 to 150 amps with no load on it, and up to 200 amps or more while cranking the engine. The no load amp draw depends on the rating of the starter while the cranking amp draw depends on the displacement and compression of the engine. Always refer to the OEM specs for the exact amp values. Some "high torque" GM starters, for example, may have a no load draw of up to 250 amps. Toyota starters on four-cylinder engines typically draw 130 to 150 amps, and up to 175 amps on six-cylinder engines.

ENGINE CRANKS BUT WILL NOT START
When the engine cranks normally but won't start, you need to check ignition, fuel and compression. Ignition is easy enough to check with a spark tester or by positioning a plug wire near a good ground. No spark? The most likely causes would be a failed ignition module, distributor pickup or crankshaft position (CKP) sensor.

A tool such as an Ignition System Simulator can speed the diagnosis by quickly telling you if the ignition module and coil are capable of producing a spark with a simulated timing input signal. If the simulated signal generates a spark, the problem is a bad distributor pickup or crankshaft position sensor. No spark would point to a bad module or coil. Measuring ignition coil primary and secondary resistance can rule out that component as the culprit.

Module problems as well as pickup problems are often caused by loose, broken or corroded wiring terminals and connectors. Older GM HEI ignition modules are notorious for this. If you are working on a distributorless ignition system with a Hall effect crankshaft position sensor, check the sensor's reference voltage (VRef) and ground. The sensor must have 5 volts or it will remain permanently off and not generate a crank signal (which should set a fault code). Measure VRef between the sensor power supply wire and ground (use the engine block for a ground, not the sensor ground circuit wire). Don't see 5 volts? Then check the sensor wiring harness for loose or corroded connectors. A poor ground connection will have the same effect on the sensor operation as a bad VRef supply. Measure the voltage drop between the sensor ground wire and the engine block. More than a 0.1 voltage drop indicates a bad ground connection. Check the sensor mounting and wiring harness.

If a Hall effect crank sensor has power and ground, the next thing to check would be its output. With nothing in the sensor window, the sensor should be "on" and read 5 volts (VRef). Measure the sensor D.C. output voltage between the sensor signal output wire and ground (use the engine block again, not the ground wire). When the engine is cranked, the sensor output should drop to zero every time the shutter blade, notch, magnetic button or gear tooth passes through the sensor. No change in voltage would indicate a bad sensor that needs to be replaced.

If the primary side of the ignition system seems to be producing a trigger signal for the coil but the voltage is not reaching the plugs, a visual inspection of the coil tower, distributor cap, rotor and plug wires should be made to identify any defects that might be preventing the spark from reaching its intended destination.

ENGINE CRANKS AND HAS SPARK BUT WILL NOT START
If you see a good hot spark when you crank the engine, but it won't start, check for fuel. The problem might be a bad fuel pump.

On an older engine with a carburetor, pump the throttle linkage and look for fuel squirting into the carburetor throat. No fuel? Possible causes include a bad mechanical fuel pump, stuck needle valve in the carburetor, a plugged fuel line or fuel filter.

On newer vehicles with electronic fuel injection, connect a pressure gauge to the fuel rail to see if there is any pressure in the line. No pressure when the key is on? Check for a failed fuel pump, pump relay, fuse or wiring problem. On Fords, don't forget to check the inertia safety switch which is usually hidden in the trunk or under a rear kick panel. The switch shuts off the fuel pump in an accident. So if the switch has been tripped, resetting it should restore the flow of fuel to the engine. Lack of fuel can also be caused by obstructions in the fuel line or pickup sock inside the tank. And don't forget to check the fuel gauge. It is amazing how many no starts are caused by an empty fuel tank.

There is also the possibility that the fuel in the tank may be heavily contaminated with water or overloaded with alcohol. If the tank was just filled, bad gas might be causing the problem.

On EFI-equipped engines, fuel pressure in the line does not necessarily mean the fuel is being injected into the engine. Listen for clicking or buzzing that would indicate the injectors are working. No noise? Check for voltage and ground at the injectors. A defective ECM may not be driving the injectors, or the EFI power supply relay may have called it quits. Some EFI-systems rely on input from the camshaft position sensor to generate the injector pulses. Loss of this signal could prevent the system from functioning.

Even if there is fuel and it is being delivered to the engine, a massive vacuum leak could be preventing the engine from starting. A large enough vacuum leak will lean out the air/fuel ratio to such an extent that the mixture won't ignite. An EGR valve that is stuck wide open, a disconnected PCV hose, loose vacuum hose for the power brake booster, or similar leak could be the culprit. Check all vacuum connections and listen for unusual sucking noises while cranking.

ENGINE HAS FUEL AND SPARK BUT WILL NOT START
An engine that has fuel and spark, no serious vacuum leaks and cranks normally should start. The problem is compression . If it is an overhead cam engine with a rubber timing belt, a broken timing belt would be the most likely cause especially if the engine has a lot of miles on it. Most OEMs recommend replacing the OHC timing belt every 60,000 miles for preventative maintenance, but many belts are never changed. Eventually they break, and when they do the engine stops dead in its tracks. And in engines that lack sufficient valve-to-piston clearance as many import engines and some domestic engines do, it also causes extensive damage (bent valves and valvetrain components & sometimes cracked pistons).

Overhead cams can also bind and break if the head warps due to severe overheating, or the cam bearings are starved for lubrication. A cam seizure may occur during a subzero cold start if the oil in the crankcase is too thick and is slow to reach the cam (a good reason for using 5W-20 or 5W-30 for winter driving). High rpm cam failure can occur if the oil level is low or the oil is long overdue for a change.

With high mileage pushrod engines, the timing chain may have broken or slipped. Either type of problem can be diagnosed by doing a compression check and/or removing a valve cover and watching for valve movement when the engine is cranked.

A blown head gasket may prevent an engine from starting if the engine is a four cylinder with two dead cylinders. But most six or eight cylinder engines will sputter to life and run roughly even with a blown gasket. The gasket can, however, allow coolant to leak into the cylinder and hydrolock the engine.


Test this ans tell us news.

Posted on Sep 02, 2010

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98 contour repair manual


You don't need a repair manual if you know the basic's of automotive repair . You just need wiring diagrams an fuse box layouts . You can find those here free http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model ,engine ! Under system click on electrical distribution .Then under subsystem click on fuse panel . Click the search button then the first blue link . This shows relay positions in the under hood fuse box. The PCM power relay supply's B+ voltage to the fuel pump relay , PCM - engine computer ,mass air flow sensor an someother thing's .

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Es lexus 300 p 1705...What is this?


DTC P1705 - NC2 (Direct Clutch Speed Sensor) Revolution Sensor Circuit malfunction or Direct Clutch Speed Sensor Output is 300 RPM or less with Vehicle at 20 MPH or more & with Park/Neutral Position Switch Off

Most probably you have an electrical fault causing the problem and attached is a diagnostic procedure. It could be 2 separate problems and after rectifying the P1705 only would you know it is single or 2. Repair manual shows right on top of transmission, black sensor with single bolt, 2 wire plug. P/N 89413-08020 list price $113.80

NOTE: DTC P1705 is set when PCM receives 2 gear position signals at the same time.

1. Turn ignition on. If any A/T gear position indicator lights remain illuminated when gear selector is moved from that gear, go to next step. If all A/T gear position indicator lights turn off when gear selector is moved from that gear, system is okay at this time.

2. Disconnect A/T gear position switch connector. If all A/T gear position switch indicators go out, replace A/T gear position switch. If all A/T gear position switch indicators do not go out, go to next step.

3. Reconnect A/T gear position switch connector. Shift through all gear positions except Reverse. Using a DVOM, measure voltage between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D", terminal No. 6 (Green/Red wire on 2.3CL or White wire on Accord and Odyssey) and 25-pin PCM harness connector "B" terminals No. 20 or 22 (Brown/Black wires).

If battery voltage is present, go to next step. If battery voltage is not present, check for a short in Green/Red or White wire between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D" and A/T gear position indicator, or A/T gear position switch. Repair as necessary. If Green/Red or White wire is okay, check for loose PCM harness connectors. Replace PCM with a known-good unit if necessary.

4. Shift through all gear positions except Neutral and Park. Measure voltage between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D", terminal No. 13 (Blue/White wire on Accord or Light Green wire on 2.3CL and Odyssey) and 25-pin PCM harness connector "B" terminals No. 20 or 22 (Brown/Black wires). If battery voltage is present, go to next step. If battery voltage is not present, check for a short in Blue/White or Light Green wire between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D" and A/T gear position indicator, or A/T gear position switch. Repair as necessary. If Blue/White or Light Green wire is okay, check for loose PCM harness connectors. Replace PCM with a known-good unit if necessary.

5. Shift through all gear positions except "D4". Measure voltage between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D", terminal No. 9 (Light Green/Black wire on 2.3CL or Yellow wire on Accord and Odyssey) and 25-pin PCM harness connector "B" terminals No. 20 or 22 (Brown/Black wires). If battery voltage is present, go to next step. If battery voltage is not present, check for a short in Light Green/Black or Yellow wire between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D" and A/T gear position switch. Repair as necessary. If Light Green/Black or Yellow wire is okay, check for loose PCM harness connectors. Replace PCM with a known-good unit if necessary.

6. Shift through all gear positions except "D3". Measure voltage between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D", terminal No. 8 (Green/Blue wire on 2.3CL or Pink wire on Accord and Odyssey) and 25-pin PCM harness connector "B" terminals No. 20 or 22 (Brown/Black wires). If battery voltage is present, go to next step. If battery voltage is not present, check for a short in Green/Blue or Pink wire between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D" and A/T gear position indicator, or A/T gear position switch. Repair as necessary. If Green/Blue or Pink wire is okay, check for loose PCM harness connectors. Replace PCM with a known-good unit if necessary.

7. Shift through all gear positions except "2". Measure voltage between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D", terminal No. 14 (Green/Yellow wire on 2.3CL or Blue wire on Accord and Odyssey) and 25-pin PCM harness connector "B" terminals No. 20 or 22 (Brown/Black wires). If battery voltage is present, go to next step. If battery voltage is not present, check for a short in Green/Yellow or Blue wire between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D" and A/T gear position indicator, or A/T gear position switch. Repair as necessary. If Green/Yellow or Blue wire is okay, check for loose PCM harness connectors. Replace PCM with a known-good unit if necessary.

8. Shift through all gear positions except "1". Measure voltage between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D", terminal No. 15 (Light Green/White wire on 2.3CL or Brown wire on Accord and Odyssey) and 25-pin PCM harness connector "B" terminals No. 20 or 22 (Brown/Black wires). If battery voltage is present, check for loose PCM harness connectors. Replace PCM with a known- good unit if necessary. If battery voltage is not present, check for a short in Light Green/White or Brown wire between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D" and A/T gear position indicator, or A/T gear position switch. Repair as necessary. If Light Green/White or Brown wire is okay, check for loose PCM harness connectors. Replace PCM with a known-good unit if necessary.


Hope helps.

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Power source for ecm and destination of efi fuse for ford mondeo 2.0 16v mk 1 zetec south african make and a pin layout of ecm


Hello! The ZETEC engine was used in the 1999 Ford Escort...I do not know what year your vehicle is, however the pin layouts are the same...

The Fuel Injector Fuse (30A) feeds the injectors via normally open contacts of the PCM Power Relay on a Red/White wire (which becomes Red at the injectors) on pin #12 of the Constant Control Module...
The wire colors of injector control leads (at the injectors) are..#3=Brown/Yellow...#1=Tan...#4=Brown/Light Blue...And #2=White

Wire colors at the PCM plug are...#3=Brown/White (pin 74)...#1=Yellow (pin 75...#4=Green/Orange (pin100)...and #2=Violet/Yellow (pin 103)...

Size restrictions on attachments do not allow me to send the entire PCM...aka...ECM pin layout to you...

Guru.............saailer

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High resistance in a wire run... is caused by rust and loose fittings. Open circuit is a broken wire or broken connector.

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1. Disconnect the voltage regulator connection at the alternator assembly and start the engine to see if it runs better or not and to see if the same coil-on-plug (COP) unit codes reset.

2. If the engine operation is good unless the voltage regulator connection is plugged in, it suggests a diode failure of the alternator assembly creating electrical noise.

3. If the engine operation is not any different with the voltage regulator connection unplugged, check the COP unit circuits at the PCM for battery voltage with the ignition switch in the run position and the COP's connected. Perform a wiggle test of the circuits and harness to verify that battery voltage to the PCM cannot be interrupted indicating a PCM failure.
COP 1 is controlled by a Light Green/White (LG/WH) wire at pin 1 of the C175e connector.
COP 2 is controlled by a Pink/White (PK/WH) wire at pin 12 of the C175e connector.
COP 3 is controlled by a White/Pink (WH/PK) wire at pin 24 of the C175e connector.
COP 4 is controlled by a Dark Green/Violet (DG/VT) wire at pin 35 of the C175e connector.
COP 5 is controlled by a Light Green/Yellow (LG/YE) wire at pin 36 of the C175e connector.
COP 6 is controlled by a Orange/Yellow (OG/YE) wire at pin 22 of the C175e connector. 1. There have been a lot of problems with the coil circuit wires breaking inside their insulation near the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) connector, usually within 2" of the PCM. Wiggle test the wiring harness, starting from the PCM and working toward the coil. 1. Verify battery power is present and consistent on the Red (RD) wire of multiple Coil-On-Plug (COP) unit connections.

2. If the battery power supply to the COPs is good, disconnect and inspect the C133 engine harness connector at the top of the engine for a possible connection issue. This connector is a grey 16-terminal connector. It may be behind the rear side of the intake plenum. Service the connection as necessary.

3. Disconnect the PCM connection and inspect the COP unit primary circuits and terminals at the C175E connection. Service the connection as necessary.

4. If the circuits and connections all appear to be in good condition, replace the PCM. Replacement of the PCM will require a programming function to be performed using the Ford scan tool for Passive Anti-theft System (PATS) functions and the PCM is an 8 year/80,000 mile (7/70 for CA state emissions) warranty item.

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1 Answer

1996 ford taurus dlc problem


These other garages you took it to , were there scan tools able to connect to any module on the vehicle ? Checking for codes in the GEM - genaric electronic module , instrument cluster etc.... All the modules on your vehicle talk an share information over a SCP - serial data bus . If a module is down it set's a DTC in one of these other modules . You would need a factory or a professional grade scan tool to talk with these other modules . That would be the first step if this came to my place of employment .If no modules on the data network communicate , checking the network would be the next step .
For a quick check of the SCP network, simply place your voltmeter across the SCP pins at the data link connector (top row second from left and bottom row second from left).
SCP voltage will usually range between 4.5 and 5.0 volts. If there is no voltage present at these pins when the key is on, unplug one module at a time until this voltage returns. In some cases, a shorted module will load down the network.
If the voltage is low no matter what module is unplugged, there is likely SCP wiring damage. There needs to be at least one module plugged in to get the voltage on the network.
When testing the CAN network, both voltage and resistance can be checked. Place a voltmeter or an ohmmeter across pins 6 and 14 to check the high speed CAN network.
When checking voltage, the CAN network will normally be around 2.5 volts. When checking resistance, ensure that the key is off. The resistance of the CAN network will be around 60 ohms. An explanation of this resistance can help diagnose a high speed CAN problem.
On a Ford vehicle, there are two termination resistors on the CAN network. These resistors are usually found in the PCM and the instrument cluster. Each resistor is 120 ohms.
When they are put together on the network, the network will show 60 ohms. With this in mind, if you check the resistance and it reads 120 ohms, you know that one of the modules is not on the network. Simply unplug the cluster or the PCM to see which one is on the network.
A low resistance value will usually indicate a shorted CAN circuit, or a shorted CAN module. Unplug all of the modules except the PCM and the instrument cluster and then see if, at any point, the resistance returns to 60 ohms. A high resistance will usually indicate a connector issue, corrosion or wiring issue.
Information courtesy of Identifix Inc. tech department. See www.identifix.com.


also check pin 13 at the DLC to pin 13 connector C 191 at the PCM for a open circuit .

You can find a wiring diagram here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html

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