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Replaced intake gasket on my 92 chevy 5.7 TBI and now won't start. It does have 206000miles on the motor. I've triple checked the firing order and #1 at TDC lined up right. WON'T START. DRIVING ME NUTS. it does have spark and is getting fuel. Plugs are black as if it has been running rich. Ran fine before. I've done at least 15 of these distributors and never had ne problems. HELP ME I WANT TO DRIVE MY TRUCK. collapsed lifter?Bent push rod? Slipped timing chain?

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 95 GMC Jimmy 4.3l W vin rough idle

My problem was solved when I repaired my 4 wd activation dash switch. The switch was contacting on 2WD & 4HI at the same time. The front differential activation is vacuum activated possibly creating a tug of war that didn't actually engage it but drained off vacuum from the engine? A theory at best but stumbbled across it because I knew the switch wasn't working properly I repaired it and low and behold rough idle disappeared and all is good for 3 weeks running.

Posted on Dec 10, 2008

Zim1308
  • 543 Answers

SOURCE: My 1988 Firebird won't start. The starter

Could try the crank sensor, that is where I would start. Next would be the timing & compression.

Posted on Jun 24, 2011

jmgldsmth
  • 1869 Answers

SOURCE: my truck starts like it

replace the batery cables (they corode in the middle and, look fine on the outside but, when you cut them in half they are filled with gray corosion dust; causing very high resistance.

Posted on Jun 29, 2011

gregjr_pl1
  • 138 Answers

SOURCE: get fire every where else

You have problem with you timing or did you ever label all the high tension wire before you unplug it. it might be re arrange the firing sequence. 1342 firing order. And the timing position of the distributor were at original place.

Posted on Aug 16, 2011

jesse_gilley
  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 1987 chevy s-10 2.8 motor. Wont start and gas

it keeps flooding out

Posted on Oct 21, 2011

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My 92 chevy 1500 350 engine will start bogging and shut off and the motor is flooded. Does anyone know why?


Make sure your breather or breather spacer has not pinched the wires going to the tbi throddle boby injection ,,,or rubbed a wire causeing it to ground out,,, also just to to the left and foward of the tbi there is a large square box 1.5x1.5 with wires pluged in make sure the wires are not melted or naked and touching each other,, check all your wires on the intake in that area make sure there nit melted togther or cracked and touching

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Won't start


If it's backfiring through the intake, then more than likely it's a timing issue. The distributor cap has the cylinder numbers molded into it where the plug wires go... Make sure the wires are in the right spots. If that's good, then it's possible the distributor isn't lined up right.

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I have a 99 chevy malibu with a misfire in cylinder 1 and I have already replaced the coil packs and the spark plug on that cylinder but the miss fire continues. Any Help really need to get it fixed by...


If you have a 3,1 motor, there's a very good chance your lower intake manifold gasket is allowing coolant into cylinder 1 and keeping it from firing. Number 1 is right next to a coolant port, ant the 3.1/3,4's are very well known for intake gasket failure.

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Back firing out of the intake is because the valves/cams are not set right. When you did the timing belt . did you set the crankshaft mark at top dead center of the compression stroke. If it's at the exhaust stroke this would cause backfiring and violent shaking.

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It could be the intake gaskets, or it could be that the upper intake is starting to fail. Both are common problems. How fast are you losing coolant? If it's fast, then it may be the upper intake. Also, how many miles are on it, and has the upper intake been replaced before? It may be due for a new one.

Anyway, the procedure for doing the gaskets and for replacing the upper intake are exactly the same, except that if you replace the upper intake, you put on the new one instead of reinstalling the old one. I've done this with mkaake over a couple of days. There's a lot to remove and replace, but nothing that's especially hard to do. Have a service manual of some kind on hand, and do some serious research before you take it apart.

Parts you'll need:

1) Upper intake gasket set
2) Lower intake gasket set (make sure it's the new upgraded version, with metal inserts)
3) Plastic coolant elbow (it's under the alternator, and rarely comes off in one piece. It's also a dealer part, so if you're doing this on a Saturday and the dealer is closed... you get to wait until monday to put it back together - unless you get one ahead of time)
4) Fuel injector O-rings (might as well replace those while you've got them out anyway)
5) Carb/TB cleaner - several cans (you'll want to clean up the upper and lower intakes, and the TB while you've got them off)

That's all I can think of right now. I also don't know prices. Maybe someone else will have that info.

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I have the same year truck as you do. Replaced engine last year and now this same exact thing is going on. I've talked to several people with the same problem. They have said to check the distributor and see if the bushing is worn out. This will cause the reluctor wheel to hit or miss the CAM sensor. Causing the sensor not to get the correct reading. So I took my truck to a very reputable garage, sure enough 12% difference between the CAM and CRANK sensors. Now if the distributor needs a new bushing or replaced a Automotive shop has to "relearn" the the system. After you replace either one. So that they are working together.

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