Question about 1997 Mitsubishi Galant

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Shogun pinin keeps burning the small check engine relay when i switch to ignition.

Hi guys, thanks for reading this post. we had the cam shaft, crankshaft oil seals and timing belt changed 2 days ago. there was also a ignition(connects to spark plug) coil that we thought was faulty and so the mechanic had a spare and he changed it. the car was running perfectly for the past two days and then all of sudden this afternoon when i started it, it started for a second or so and then cut off. It now turns the engine but does not start. I realised the check engine light does not come on when i turn the key to ignition as it should come on and switch off after the cpu has checked all sensors. After checking the fuses,I then realised the small 20 amp see through relay had burnt. it is saturday evening and with no access to parts shops, i decided to try and join the cut in that relay by pushing the wires together. the check engine light does come on but goes off within a split second and it burns that fuse sort of a relay. could anyone guide me where to start looking for a short as i presume it is something that's shorting and thus burning the 20amp see through relay. thanks for helping. vishal

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SOURCE: 1993 shogun v6 3.0 wont start no spark, then next time it will

I have exactly the same problem could you let me know what you did to get over the Issue thanks, Mark.
07850 530730

Posted on Jan 23, 2011

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1 Answer

I have a shogun pinin 2003 2litre engine,I don't know if I can re set the tappits?or if its hydrolic?


I don't have information about the 2 litre but the 1800 engine, same car, same year, had hydraulic tappets.

Jul 05, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

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Help fix start problem with truck


Sounds like you shotgunned all the parts but you did not diagnos what the problem is.. I suggest that you check to see if the engine has fuel and spark, these are the 2 things that would keep this engine from starting. OTHER than a MAJOR INTERNAL ENGINE FALIURE. Such as a broken timing chain, broken cam shaft broken crank shaft.. and yes i have seen all of these problems.
open the distributer and crank the engine see if the dist shaft/roror is turning.. This would tell you that the cam is not broken and the timing chain is functioning. Post and let us know what you find. This is a very sturdy engine. so i would look for spark and fuel delivery.

Mar 30, 2015 | 2000 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

2 Answers

If a relay clicks 7/8 times after switching on ignition my pinin will not start


normally dont get clicking on a fuel pump normally its the starter selinoid that clicks can you hear the pump with ignition on or only when it starts i would replace the relay replaced first cheapest thing to replace first hope this helps ivan

Oct 08, 2012 | Mitsubishi Pajero Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Keeps blowing the starter fues


Hi, if you're talking about the 10 amp fuse #12, pull out the starter relay and put in a fresh fuse. Try to start the truck and then check the fuse. If the fuse is OK, get a new starter relay. If the fuse burned without the relay, there is a short between the ignition switch and the starter relay. If you have a manual transmission, you can further isolate the short by pulling the connector off the switch above the clutch pedal. Put another fuse in and try again. If the fuse burns, the short is between the ignition switch and the clutch switch. If not, it's between the clutch switch and the starter relay. Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

Jun 19, 2011 | 1992 Isuzu Pickup

1 Answer

Got jeep going, ran for two days then it would'nt start, this has happened several times. Checks I have done; fuses ok, no power at coil, no spark, checked all connections. I would like to test crank...


Hi, if you have no power at the coil, the sensors cannot cause that. Are you saying there is no positive voltage there or just that the timing pulses are not coming from the computer? Power is supplied to the coil by fuse 20 via the auto shutdown relay and the PCM. See diagram below. To answer your question, I've pasted some sensors tests below. The cam sensor signal is not generally used by the PCM for ignition timing but more for injector timing. If you are not getting ignition timing pulses, the crank sensor is suspect, as you have implied. If you are not getting positive voltage to the coil, suspect fuse 20 or the auto shutdown relay, or possibly the ignition switch itself. Please let me know if you have more questions, and thanks for using FixYa.


Crank sensor tests:
  1. Backprobe with a high impedance ohmmeter between the CKP sensor connector middle terminal and battery ground.
jturcotte_189.jpg

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  1. Verify that the resistance is less than 5 ohms. If the resistance is not as specified, repair or replace the wiring as necessary and continue the test.
  2. With the ignition ON and the engine OFF , backprobe with a high impedance voltmeter between the sensor connector middle terminal and either of the end terminals.
  3. Verify that a 5 volt or greater signal is present at one of the two terminals. If not as specified, repair or replace the wiring as necessary and continue the test.
  4. With the ignition ON and the engine OFF , backprobe with a high impedance voltmeter between the sensor connector middle terminal and the end terminal that did not have the 5 volt or greater signal.
  5. Crank the engine and verify that the voltage reading alternates between 0.0 and 5.0 volts or verify that the voltage reading is 2.5 volts (averaging voltmeters only).
  6. If the voltage readings are not as specified, the sensor may be faulty.


Cam sensor checks
  1. Make sure that the ignition is OFF , remove the distributor cap and turn the engine over by hand.
  2. Verify that the distributor shaft turns. If the distributor shaft does not turn, the engine must be checked for proper mechanical operation.

jturcotte_188.jpg


  1. Backprobe with a high impedance ohmmeter between the CMP sensor connector middle terminal and battery ground.
  2. Verify that the resistance is less than 5 ohms. If the resistance is not as specified, repair or replace the wiring as necessary and continue the test.
  3. With the ignition ON and the engine OFF , backprobe with a high impedance voltmeter between the sensor connector middle terminal and either of the end terminals.
  4. Verify that a 5 volt or greater signal is present at one of the two terminals. If not as specified, repair or replace the wiring as necessary and continue the test.
  5. With the ignition ON and the engine OFF , backprobe with a high impedance voltmeter between the sensor connector middle terminal and the end terminal that did not have the 5 volt or greater signal.
  6. Crank the engine by hand and verify that the voltage reading alternates between 0.0 or 5.0 volts.
  7. Install the distributor cap and crank the engine with starter. Verify that the voltage reading is 2.5 volts (averaging voltmeters only).
  8. If the voltage readings are not as specified, the sensor may be faulty.


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Jan 26, 2011 | 1996 Jeep Cherokee

1 Answer

I have a 2000 dodge durango that wont start. I changed the crank shaft senser and the cam shaft position senser and the cap and rotor button but still wont start


Have you checked for your DTC code?? The code may help you address the issue that is keeping your engine from starting.

ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS

1. Cycle the ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within 5 seconds. To cycle the ignition key ON means to turn it only as far as it takes to get the radio to come on. It does not mean to turn the engine on.

2. Count the number of times the "check engine" lamp on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of flashes represents the code. There is a slight pause between the flashes representing the first and second digits of the code. Longer pauses separate individual codes. For example, flash-flash-flash [pause] flash-flash represents the code 32.

A code of "55" represents end of error codes. If this is all you get then no error codes are stored in the computer. This is the normal condition for a neon.
CODE Description of Trouble Code
11 Timing belt skipped 1 tooth or more from initial learned value, Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor, No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking
12 Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles
13 No change in MAP from start to run
14 MAP sensor voltage too low
15 No vehicle speed sensor signal
17 Closed loop temp not reached or engine cold too long
21 02s sensor problem (oxygen sensor), upstream or down stream
22 Engine coolant temp sensor out of range
23 Intake air temp sensor out of range
24 Throttle Position sensor out of range
25 Idle air control motor circuits, target idle not reached (+/- 200),vacuum leak found
27 Injector control circuit
31 Evap purge flow monitor failure or evap solenoid circuit
32 EGR system failure
33 A/C clutch relay circuit
34 Speed control Solenoid circuits
35 Rad Fan control relay circuit
37 Torque converter clutch solenoid CKT or park/neutral switch failure
41 Generator field not switching properly
42 Fuel pump relay control ckt, Auto shutdown relay control ckt, No ASD relay output voltage at PCM, Fuel level sending unit volts out of range, Fuel level unit No change over miles
43 Multiple/ single cylinder misfire
44 Battery temp sensor volts out of range
46 Charging system voltage too low
51 Fuel system lean
52 Fuel system rich
53 Internal control failure
54 No Cam signal at PCM
55 End of error messages (If you get this only, no errors were found)
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 PCM Failure EEPROM write denied
64 Catalytic Converter Efficiency Failure
65 Power steering switch failure

Good luck and thank you for using fixya and keep us posted

Oct 10, 2010 | 2000 Dodge Durango

1 Answer

Can be driving and engine dies and won't start,no sound or starter activity. Other electrical equipment still operates ie: interior lights. After awhile it will start up and drive as if nothing was wrong....


The only thing you can really do is to find a repair shop that uses a Scopemeter and have them check out everything. Otherwise we could be out here forever trying to figure it out.
There are a few things that will give you no crank or start intermittently
a) Loose or corroded battery terminals
b) bad battery
c) starter relay
d) ignition switch( loose or corroded terminals)
Visually inspect all of the above items first, then do a voltage drop test on the battery terminals,starter relay,and ignition switch and compare it against the spec's in the shop manual.
With regards to vehicle cutting out on you while your driving the following items could cause that.
a) loose or corroded battery terminals
b) ignition module,
c) faulty ignition switch
d) main relay
e) crank/ cam shaft sensor( which ever is applicable)
f) fuel pump or fuel pump relay.
When it does happen do you hear the fuel pump buzz on the immediate restart? IF you do then(although not conclusive ) not likely to be the pump or its relay. If you don't now you have another starting point.
I think you got enough to get you going But I would get the shop manual and see what they say. I had a vehicle like this many years ago the customer drove around with a Digital Voltmeter and knew where all the items were and tested them when it happen.It drove us both crazy. Turned out to be the main relay. Good luck keep me posted

Mar 15, 2010 | 1999 Dodge Ram

1 Answer

Hi, i got error code 421, what that can be??? mitsubishi shogun pinin


Your catalytic convertor is clogged you have to change before is damages ur o2 sensors

Feb 23, 2010 | 2001 Mitsubishi Montero

1 Answer

Mitsubishi pinin fault code P0421


yes this is your catalytic convertor is clogged you have to change before is damages ur o2 sensors

Feb 12, 2010 | 2001 Mitsubishi Montero

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