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65 mustang violently shakes on take off

Replaced fly wheel clutch tranny rear end mounts an still does it

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  • 49 Answers

That usually has nothing to do with the things you replaced haha maybe the wheel clutch but if you replaced it, it would ne fine. With the older model of these cars i would suggest its the block, especially if you have over heated it a lot. Possibly even the transmission. If your transmission is slipping it can cause the engine to shake pretty badly

Posted on May 03, 2013

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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alpha4
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SOURCE: Shake in steering wheel

I believe you need your disk brake rotors turned to be true again or have them replaced. Whe you use your brakes a lot and kit puddles of cold water then it will warp the rotors which will cause the violent shaking. You may not feel it in the brake pedal even if it is warped rotors. If you don't think you have warped rotors then you should be very careful driving it because it will probably be in the steering sector arm or the idler arm on the steering shaft.
Dale

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

  • 4369 Answers

SOURCE: rear wheel bearing

SECTION 205-02B: Rear Drive Axle/Differential — Ford 8.8-Inch Ring Gear 2003 Mustang Workshop Manual IN-VEHICLE REPAIR Axle Shaft Removal

  1. Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
  1. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
  1. Remove the rear brake disc (2C026). For additional information, refer to Section 206-04 .
  1. Remove the differential housing cover (4033) and drain the lubricant. For additional information, refer to Differential Housing Cover in this section.
  1. Remove the differential pinion shaft (4211).
    1. Remove the differential pinion shaft lock bolt (4241).
    1. Remove the differential pinion shaft.
  1. s3b~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not damage the rubber O-ring in the axle shaft groove.
    Remove the U-washer (4N237).
    1. Push the axle shafts (4234) inboard.
    1. Remove the U-washer.
  1. s3b~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Damage to the rear brake anti-lock sensor (2C190) may occur if it is not removed before the axle shaft.
    Carefully remove the rear brake anti-lock sensor. For additional information, refer to Section 206-09A .
  1. s3b~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not damage the wheel bearing oil seal.
    Remove the axle shaft.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Rear Wheel Bearing and Axle Shaft Oil Seal Removal
  1. Remove the axle shaft (4234). For additional information, refer to Axle Shaft in this section.
  1. NOTE: If the wheel bearing oil seal is leaking, the axle housing vent may be plugged.
    Using the special tools, remove the rear wheel bearing and wheel bearing oil seal.
Installation
  1. Lubricate the new rear wheel bearing with the specified lubricant.
  1. Using the special tools, install the new rear wheel bearing.
  1. Lubricate the lip of the new wheel bearing oil seal.
    • Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.
  1. Using the special tools, install the new wheel bearing oil seal.
  1. Install the axle shaft. For additional information, refer to Axle Shaft in this section.

-------------------------------------------------------------------
Installation
  1. Lubricate the lip of the wheel bearing oil seal
    • Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.
  1. s3b~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not damage the wheel bearing oil seal.
    Install the two axle shafts.
  1. s3b~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not damage the rubber O-ring in the axle shaft groove.
    Install the U-washer.
    1. Position the two U-washers on the button end of the axle shaft.
    1. Pull the axle shaft outward.
  1. NOTE: If a new pinion shaft lock bolt is unavailable, coat the threads with Threadlock and Sealer EOAZ-19554-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G351-A5 prior to installation.
    Install the differential pinion shaft.
    1. Align the hole in the differential pinion shaft with the case lock bolt hole.
    1. Install a new differential pinion shaft lock bolt.
  1. Install the differential housing cover and fill the rear axle with the specified lubrication. For additional information, refer to Differential Housing Cover in this section.
  1. Install the rear brake anti-lock sensor. For additional information, refer to Section 206-09A .
  1. Install the rear brakes. For additional information, refer to Section 206-04 .
  1. Install the tire and wheel assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
  1. Lower the vehicle.

Posted on Apr 10, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Steering shakes violently when I hit a bump

I had the same problem and it was a small shock sitting horizontally called the steering stabalizer your something close to that. Eazy fix.

Jason

Posted on Jun 09, 2009

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: When appling brakes on a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee, steeing wheel

New revised calipers. and have the new rotors machined right out of the box before installing

Posted on Jul 28, 2009

topgunsvcs
  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: 04 Dodge 2500 4X4 shakes violently after hitting bump at 55 mph +

The bumps do initiate the shaking. When my 2006 Ram 2500 4x4 started shaking, I had just had it aligned that morning. A month or so before that alignment, my passenger side outer tie-rod broke while driving down a rock road. I replaced it with a heavy duty MOOG tie-rod end. Anyway, the same day I had it aligned I was driving back home from a job and towing my bobcat behind me. I hit a bump and the truck did the "death wobble" with the front end shaking violently up and down in an alternating fashion (one tire in the air while one tire on the ground and then vice-versa). I changed the tires first (which were worn-out 305/75/17 mud tires). Since the day I bought the truck new in Jan. 2006, I've had larger tires on the truck than the tiny 235/75/17s that came with it and I've done a lot of heavy towing with it and never had a problem until this alignment was done at Sears. I;m still trying to figure out if it was the alignment specs that they used or if the problem coincidentally started that same day. I also changed the steering stabilizer. Neither the new tires nor the stabilizer/damper helped the problem. So I changed the other outer tie-rod end and the upper and lower ball joints (all MOOG with grease fittings). I turns out they were worn out. So, the truck no longer shakes violently up and down when I hit a bump. That problem seems to be in check. However, now when I hit a bump the truck's front end wobbles side-to-side. I can do a few things to recover from it. I can hit the brakes pretty hard and sudden (which can cause an accident on the interstate), or I can **** the steering wheel side-to-side a few times (from 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock) and that stops it immediately...until the next bump in the road. Also, if I let my foot off the accelerator just before hitting a bump and let the truck coast over it instead of power through it, sometimes the truck will ride over the bump without incident. I found out yesterday on a 5 1/2 hour road trip that if I did 80 to 90 miles per hour and powered through every road blemish, the truck rode fine...no shaking at all. I suppose the high speed forces the tires to stay straight when they hit a bump. Lastly, to confuse my problem solving attempts further, sometimes the truck rides like a cadillac (for an hour or so) at regular speeds and no matter what bumps I hit. Then without worning, the front end will loosen up and get that sloppy feeling again and the wobbling comes back at every bump...until the next time it feels like tightening up and driving right again. I have no idea what to do now. I'm going back to Sears today to have them check their alignment. Other than that, all I can think of is to change the rest of the steering components and check the steering box for malfunction. I hope someone can help all of us Dodge owners out off of the road tested info that I've just provided. Dodge doesn't seem to care to address the problems with their trucks front ends, and we need a solution before people get hurt or die. I was almost run over by an 18-wheeler trying to figure out how to handle the shake. I can't afford to buy another truck. So I need to fix this one so I can keep working. If anybody has a concrete solution to these problems, please let us know. I've read 20 different opinions from mechanics on these blogs, but nobody has said yet that they fixed someone's truck with these problems and have since heard from that customer and everything is still working fine. Opinions are helpful sometimes, but they're also confusing when they're conflicting.

Posted on Jan 23, 2010

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