Question about 2002 Suzuki Aerio
Car died on highway going 100 km and I removed the valve cover and discovered the timing chain is off, and there is a bracket that broke and whatever is attached to it fell down the front. Could this be the oil pump attached to the bracket? Also would this be a non interference engine/head as i am wondering if a valve could have gotten bent when the bracket broke and chain came off.
I wouldnt crank it til I kno---u need a repair manual--go to magicmechanic in the states--send him issue-he replies-nothn he doesnt kno
Posted on Apr 30, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: oil dripping off egr valve
I had the same problem, but its not oil. it is coolant. running to the heater. just check for cracks on the little piece of hose on the egr. tri it...
Posted on Dec 15, 2008
SOURCE: Timing Chain and Valves
I think it's an interference engine but you can check quite easily at this point if the valves are bent. Pull all the spark plugs out, turn the crank so that all the pistons are 1/2 way down their bore, get a piece of fuel line that is just the right size to thread into the plug holes or a special fitting for this purpose, and blow into each cylinder after you have turned the cams in succession so that the valves should be closed at the hole you are blowing into. If a valve is bent, you won't have any trouble blowing into the cylinder. If it's good, you won't be able to blow very well at all.
Posted on Mar 30, 2009
try to check, is it enough space to get the head bolt out without removing the cam? if ok, just follow your opinion. haynes maybe just told you to minimize the risk to broke the distributor.
Posted on Nov 19, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
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Place a drain pan underneath the radiator. When the engine is cool, drain the cooling system from the radiator into the pan.
Place a car jack underneath the oil pain to support it. Also, to protect the engine parts, put a block of wood onto the jack.
Disconnect the negative battery cable and remove the engine mount and bracket on the right side.
Take out the drive belts as well as the idler pulley bracket, the chain tensioner cover and the water pump cover.
Push the timing chain tensioner sleeve up and put a stopper pin in it to keep it from slipping. Take out the chain tensioner assembly.
Turn the crankshaft pulley in a backward motion until it rotates 20 degrees.
Place 2 MB bolts into the threaded holes of the pump and tighten them by hand, alternating turning a half turn each at a time unit they reach the timing chain rear case. Doing it this way will prevent damage to the timing chain rear case.
Remove the water pump, throwing away the old o-rings. Make sure not to let the water pump hit the timing chair.
Clean all the mounting surfaces on the water pump and covers.
Install the new water pump with the new o-rings, tightening the bolts to 75 to 95 inch pounds (8.5 to 10.7 Nm).
Turn the crankshaft pulley back to its starting position (20 degrees forward).
Install the chain tensioner and water pump covers, tightening to .092 to 130 inch pounds (2.3 to 3.3 mm).
Take out the stopper pin from the timing chain tensioner.
Put a bead of liquid sealant onto the mating surfaces of the water pump and timing chain tensioner.
Install the timing chain tensioner with the water pump to the engine block, tightening the bolts to 87 to 113 inch pounds.
Add the drive belts, the idler pulley bracket and the engine mounting bracket with the engine mount.
Reinstall the negative battery cable and remove the jack from under the engine. Install drain plugs to the cylinder block.
Start the car and check for leaks when the engine reaches normal operating temperature.
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