Question about 2002 Chevrolet Tahoe
Had to unplug a module underneath to stop a noise and need to find out what it was that I unplugged because a light came on that said traction off.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
New users get to try the service completely Free afterwhich it costs $6 per call and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
and the other blue one is for remote antenna..
Posted on Dec 04, 2008
On the full size, the front actuator is electric, not vacuum.
When in 4wd mode, a switch on top of the transfer case conducts 12 volts out to the actuator. Wire #50 (brown) is the 12v feed, and it conducts to the light blue wire (#900) to the actuator.
When shifted out of 4wd, the switch opens up and no voltage goes to the actuator.
Check voltage at the connector for the front actuator (at the front differential - it looks like a large bullet that threads into the front diff.) If it has 12 volts, the actuator is the problem. If it does not have 12 volts, check the transfer case switch and the power feed to the transfer case.
I'll assume it is the actuator, if the plug to the actuator is getting 12 volts when in 4wd.
The way this actuator works, is it is a sealed chamber that gets heated by voltage. When it heats, the pin in the end swells and pushes a shift fork in the front differential. The shift fork engages a spline on the passenger side of the differential, and boom! you have 4WD.
GM offered an upgrade to this actuator that is a motor instead of a heated device. However, it requires a small harness addition, a spacer, and a new actuator. It is about a $150 to $200 option.
Good luck. The actuator is usually the problem 90% of time but recheck all of the wire harness just to maker sure there is no short before replacing any parts. The actuator may not be fully engaged or disengaged and the fork to the spline may be what is causing the grinding.
88-UP C/K ACTUATOR UPGRADE
VEHICLE SERVICED: 1994 CHEVROLET FULL SIZE
PURPOSE: IMPROVE AXLE CONNECT ENGAGEMENT TIME AND
SYMPTOMS: NO FRONT DRIVE AXLE ENGAGEMENT WHEN SHIFTED
If the grinding is only when you apply the brakes, then it's going to be replacing the break pads and rotors and may be the brake caliper if it's damaged from the worn out brake pads. Please keep me posted, be glad to know you got your Tahoe running 100%
Posted on Jan 11, 2010
without hearing exact noise it is hard to diagnose. these vehicles had a normal cold start knocking noise due to the low friction rings used allowed piston some extra movement. when carbon builds up on pistons it gets worse will go away after about a minute running. it does not affect life of engine or performance. i think this may be noise you hear. or possible it is a lifter leaking down and taking a while to pump up
Posted on May 24, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Dec 09, 2015 | Cars & Trucks
May 19, 2015 | 2002 Chevrolet Tahoe
Jan 20, 2015 | 2002 Chevrolet Tahoe
Aug 22, 2012 | 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe
Sep 09, 2011 | 2002 Chevrolet Tahoe
Aug 23, 2011 | 2003 Chevrolet Tahoe
Sep 17, 2009 | 1995 Chevrolet Tahoe
Sep 02, 2009 | 2002 Chevrolet Tahoe
Aug 03, 2008 | 2002 Chevrolet Tahoe
113 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!