Question about 2004 Acura RSX

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Evap system problem

Hi, I went to get my smog test and my check engine light turned on. I needed to replace the O2 sensor. I ended up buying the part an an auto part place and had a mechanic replace the part. Today, when I go back for a retest he scanned the car and said that I needed to drive the car a bit. I drove for a good 40 minutes on the highway and went back and he said that the EVAP code showed a star and not a zero like the other things. How do I clear the EVAP code? I have a 2004 Acura RSX-S.

Posted by Anonymous on

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A bit is about 125 miles of driving with on and off cycles the vehicle has to go through reset cycles not just drive drive around for a few minutes the following links should help a lot of the time the shortcut cycles dont work but doesnt hurt to try
found this helpful answer from an auto mechanic on JustAnswer com http://www.lyberty.com/car/drive-cycle.html Drive Cycle and Emissions Readiness Monitors

Posted on May 31, 2017

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Go to a better mechanic as he would know that resetting is done with the scan tool

Posted on May 31, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

roniecon
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SOURCE: I have a 94 Acura Integra that after driving for

Have the code reader clear the codes.

Posted on Jan 18, 2010

mmorales2011
  • 18 Answers

SOURCE: My "check engine light" and

SYMPTOM
The MIL is on, and DTC P1457 [leak detected in EVAP
control system (EVAP control canister system)] is set.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The EVAP bypass solenoid valve can fail due to
corrosion. Replace the bypass solenoid valve first. Clear DTC's and test drive.

Posted on Dec 12, 2010

emissionwiz
  • 76649 Answers

SOURCE: Where is the EVAP solenoid value located on a 2004 Acura MDX

Hi All :

Here's some help to those who see that dreaded amber light comes on and a new EVAP canister is needed.

I just replaced my EVAP Canister & Shut Valve and it would have been great to have some guidance to reduce the time it took to do this job. I replaced these parts to resolve a code P1457 (Major EVAP Leak) diagnosed at the dealership.

1) Order the correct parts. The Canister is simple (PN 17011-S84-A00). However, you need to order the Canister Shut valve (PN 17310-S0X-A02) black in color with an electrical connector and not to be confused with 17550-S84-A01 VALVE, VENT SHUT (O.R.V.R.) which is white plastic and not the correct part. Order the 2 screws (PN 93893-05010-08 SCREW-WASHER (5X10)) that holds the shut valve on the canister as the old ones will be rusted and useless. I could not remove mine even with vice grips.

2) When the parts arrive, take a look and the canister and you will notice 4 plastic tube fittings at one end of the canister, thankfully all different sizes. Notice the one mounting bracket hole above all the tube fittings and the 4" slot in the other end. This is how the canister is mounted to the underside of the caricon1.png.

3) The shut valve fits into the large hole and is the only one, so no confusion. Use the O ring (taped to the side of the canister) to form and seal between the canister and the shut valve and use the ordered screws to secure the two parts together.

4) Jack up the diver side rear and remove the rear wheel. The canister is located on the underside of the card directly below the driver side passenger seat along with all the other EVAP components. The fittings end of the canister is closest to the side of the car (thank you Acura). Carefully pull off all the tubing making sure to not to create another leak by causing a hole the rubber tube. The largest tube (tank vent) you will need to squeeze the fitting to remove. Remove the one electrical connector.

5) Locate the mount bolt directly above all the tube fittings. Put some anti-rust spray on the bolt heat (it will be rusted) and using a socket with extension remove the bolt. Once out, pull the canister toward the divers side and it should come free from the slot bracket at the other end of the canister. The canister should come free and fall into your hands.

6) Locate the new canister into the cavity and slide the end into the slot. Push the canister up to line up the bolt hole and screw in the old bolt. This may take a few attempts as you pretty much have to do this blind. Connect the one electrical connector and the four tubes to the correct sized fitting. This tubes are formed to go to a particular fitting so there should be no confusion.

7) Wheel back on, jack down and beer in hand cause you're done.

Posted on Oct 09, 2012

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I'm sorry you replaced the parts without testing first. Codes only give mechanics a suggested area to test, not which components to replace.
Since you replaced the O2 sensor for the first two codes, a mechanic will need to check to see if it is working by reading the data flow from the sensor with a scanner while the engine is warming up. The catalytic converter will also need to be tested to troubleshoot code 431.
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You need to find a new shop that can actually diagnose
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You can not do that without professional tools & knowledge

Don't know how many times you need to be told that

The shop you went to isn't doing anything apparently

You have problems to find & resolve & no one else will
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I went and filled my car up with gas and it started up


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Did you hook up a scan tool ? Not a code reader ! Check scan data ? What are the fuel trims at ? adding fuel taking fuel away ? Are the O2 sensors switching like thier suppose to ?


006 O2 Sensor Signal Analysis

010 Mass Air Flow Signal Analysis

Evap emissions system testing , stuck open purge solenoid . Over filled fuel tank . Do you top off the tank ? Or when fuel pump clicks off do you stop ? Loaded up the charcoal canister .
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EVAP Evaporative Emission Control System - AA1Car.com

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Causes A code P0446 could mean one or more of the following has happened:
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Possible Solutions With a P0446 OBD-II trouble code, here are some things to try:
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