Question about Cars & Trucks
I have a suspected front seal leak on MG Twin Disc Marine Gearbox
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You have to remove the transmission, remove the torque converter to access the seal. Most likely the bushing behind the seal is worn out allowing fluid to leak past the seal. After the trans. is out, take it to a trans. shop. It requires a special tool to change the bushing. Seems like a bunch of work for $10.00 in parts. The rear main seal requires pulling the pan to access it. When the trans. is out, this is the time to replace the rear main seal on the engine.
Posted on Jun 11, 2008
There are 3 places it could be coming from. (1) The outer rubber seal on the pump between it and the case (2) The metal clad seal in the center of the pump that seals against the converter hub (3) And, the 5 bolts that hold the pump in have washers under them. The seal around the outside likes to get hard and brittle with age, especially if it has gotten hot before, leading to cracks that leak. The converter seal will wear naturlaly from doing it's job and more so if the pump bushing is wore out. The bolts that hold the pump in can get loose because of vibration letting oil out around the threads and out into the world.
If you pull it out and don't find loose bolts or obvious signs of a leak, then I suggest changin out all the places I mentioned. If you take the trans out and tip it on it's ****, then the pump comes out with a couple slide pullers. Be careful not to let the clutch-pack(inputshaft) slide out any, this will make going back together easier. There is a gasket between the inside of the pump and the case that will most likely need replaced too so get that as well; it seals all the ports and passages around the pump. Replace the outer square "O"-ring and the metal clad seal in the middle, then lube the outer seal and set the pump in place. Line it up and drive it in with the handle of any hammer. Torque it down(23ft. lbs.) with new washers for the bolts or new bolts with integeral washers. Be sure to loctite the threads as well to prevent them loosening up. Wiggle turn the input shaft to double check it isn't bound up and then just put it back in the car.
It sounds like a pain and it can be, but, it's easy after you do a couple thousand. Just like falling off a log. Hopefully you just have to do it once.
Posted on Nov 13, 2008
That is alot of work. It would **** to have a mechanic paid to do this but unless you are pretty good with a wrench and have a hoist and such then it wouldnt be worth your time. Normally what is required for something like this is supporting the vehicle on jack stands and removing both front tires. Once front tires are removed you would then have to remove the axles which includes the brakes/rotors and what not. Once the axles where removed you would unbolt the transmission and remove it. Now the problem is if the engine is supported by a mount that bolts to the transmission you are going to have to support the motor with a hoist or jack until the transmission is installed. All in all it isnt really alot of work if you know what you are getting yourself into and have all the stuff you are going to need ie jacks/hoists/plenty of tools and a good weekend. Also remember all the small stuff that might need to be unbolted to clear the transmission
Posted on Mar 20, 2009
I know that GM dosen't have a fill/check tube on several models. They use a plug on the side of the unit (like on stickshift transmissions) I'm sure there would be a similar item on your transmission otherwise after a rebuild, there would be no way to refill it. If it's a small leak you could try using a good sealer/conditioner such as Lucas, which may help you a lot.
Posted on Jul 17, 2009
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