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No power, dash or hazards hiace van

I have zero power/lights/click. terminals are new, battery good 13.4 V on multimeter. cables all connected. fuses good, fuseable link good...cant find the problem! recently(3 days previous) had new terminals put on, but they didnt clean the wires and crimped on new heavy duty(unnecessary) terminals. they also sprayed a blue anti corrosive. is it possible the spray is affecting the connection? if so how can i remove it to check? where else could the problem be?

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Hi indigo you can remove the blue anti corrosion spray by removing the terminal and scrubing it with a wire brush also the hiaces have a main fuse in what looks like a white box attached to the positive wire close the battery that has fuses that look like strips of metal that if they are broken the power is cut to the vehicle. It usually takes a short circuit to blow the fuse but i have seen a few blow out of the blue.
Good luck i hope this helps

Posted on Jun 15, 2017

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I turn the key and nothing no lights on dash battery is good and fuses!!


Check for power to the ignition switch via test light or better a multimeter, could be a blown fusible link, usually housed in engine bay , or faulty ignition switch...
Work your way forward from the battery, testing power to and through all fuses, connections.

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Changed the battery and alternator on my 2006 tundra still not charging. Runs 30 min. And dies . Any help ?


Go through the basics.
1 Make sure the alternator is charging (operating properly) by measuring the voltage between earth (battery negative) and the live terminal. It should be greater than 13 volts, less than 15V.
2 Make sure the regulator is being excited. Most modern alternators need to have the dash light working in order to send a minute current to the alternator regulator to kick it into life. If the dash light is out, (fused) the alternator won't work.
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4 Wiring issues may include but is not limited to:
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I have a 2012 Dodge Grand Caravan with the 3.6 pentastar. I have the battery light on on my dash and with my scan Guage connected to the obd2 connector inside the van it's showing 12.3 with the van...


Your charging system is not working correctly. Unlike most other vehicles, the alternator in yours does not have a built in regulator circuit. Some troubleshooting must be done to find the defective component. Most of this can be done with the vehicle still assembled.

First, check that you don't have a blown fusible link. In most newer cars, these will be in the underhood fuse panel, and look like giant fuses. If good, you will read very nearly zero volts and zero ohms when measuring between the positive battery terminal and the alternator output terminal. If either measurement doesn't read zero, find the loose connection, bad wire, or blown fusible link.

Next, check the ground connections to the engine, battery, and car body to make sure you don't have a bad wire or connection somewhere. Again, measure voltage and resistance between the negative battery terminal and all associated grounding locations. For a quickie test, you can rig a jumper cable between the battery negative terminal and the alternator case. If there is a spark when you make the connection, you have a bad ground somewhere.

If your battery is well connected to the alternator, the problem may lie in the control circuit. Most Chrysler alternators have two control wires that control the field coil. Some control the battery current and have constant ground supplied, and some have battery voltage applied and control the ground current. To test, disconnect the control connector and measure the voltage of both terminals with the ignition in the "off" and "run" positions. Make a chart of each terminal and its corresponding voltage.

Start the vehicle and measure both terminals again. If the terminals tend to be zero volts, except when the vehicle runs you have voltage on one terminal, you have a system where the computer controls battery voltage. If the terminals tend to be 12 volts when the ignition is on, then one terminal goes low when the engine runs, the computer controls ground current. If the voltages of one terminal change but not the other, this suggests a bad computer.

To do a go/no go test of the alternator unit, you can connect the control pins on the alternator with the control connector disconnected. Simply connect jumper wires to the two control terminals of the alternator. Connect one jumper to a known good ground, leaving the other jumper loose. Connect a voltmeter to the battery terminals or to the output wire on the alternator. Start the vehicle and briefly connect the second jumper wire to the positive battery terminal while watching the voltmeter. While the jumpers are both connected, the battery voltage should rise dramatically.If it doesn't, this suggests a bad alternator.

If all this sounds too complicated or dangerous, a good mechanic can perform a similar diagnosis in under an hour with definite results. Good luck.

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I have a 2004 Kia Sedona. It will not start.


Hi Michelle, if this is a fully charged new battery fitted then the problem is the connection from the battery, check the earth strap is making a good contact on the chassis and the terminals are connected correctly and making a good contact with the battery posts!

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I pulled my van into a friends house yesterday, turned off the engine and then lost power to everywhere. Nothing works anymore and of course won't start up


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