Question about Cars & Trucks
Removing & installing u joints in a 1/2 ton , 4 wheel drive pickup ?
I'm all for the do it your selfer and I know this is probably not what you wanted to hear, however, unless you have the toolset specificly designed for this job and a free standing hydraulic press and the expertise, you may want to consider taking your driveline to a driveline shop where this is about all they do. They will also balance the unit for you at the same time they R&R the universal joints.
Posted on Apr 29, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
if you have air conditioning you will need to take it to a garage and recover the r134, you will need to remove the dash to allow you to remove the heater box, it's an ugly job, I've done a dozen or so and can do it in about 6 hours now, the first time it was closer to 11 hrs, good luck
Posted on May 15, 2008
SOURCE: I have a 1979 Chevrolet
Remove caliper and nut to axle should come of with a little help of a rubber hammer. Knock bolts out from the front and drive new ones in from the back. You can use a lugnut with the flat side down to help pull them in and a hammer to help. Hope this helps.
Posted on Dec 26, 2008
SOURCE: abs problem on 2001 4
I have this same problem with my 2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD. I found a recall on a website that said there were 1,353,718 other trucks with this same problem (no, that's not a typo). Do not ask the people at Chevy to uphold to this recall because I was turned down when I informed them about the problem. Anyway, the explanation for the problem is the wheel speed sensor mounting surface has rust and corrosion (especially in areas who have roads that get salted a lot) on it that moves the actual wheel speed sensor away, creating the thought of an icy condition. If you or a mechanic has the area cleaned, the sensor will go back to its original position, thus fixing the problem.
Posted on Jan 23, 2009
Replace the push button selector assembly. Common failures. If that isnt the problem then the encoder motor on transfer case has failed. Try switch first.
Posted on Mar 29, 2009
SOURCE: upper and lower ball joints
Jack the truck clear of the ground and let the wheel assembly hang. After you remove the tire place your jack under the lower control arm so it's firm. Remove the cotter pin, if you have one and loosen the big nut almost off. Wedge a "pickle fork" between the control arm and the spindle and give it a belt with a hammer until the ball joint pops. Raise the jack so you can undo the nut easily and separate the control arm and spindle.
The upper ball joint is riveted or bolted in. Grind the rivets or use a cold chisel and remove the ball joint. Clean up the area with some sandpaper, dirt , loose rust, etc.and put the new joint in. Put the spindle back on using the jack if necessary and put the nut back on and tighten.
The lower ball joint is pressed in. Tie the spindle out of the way and brace the lower control arm with some blocks or the jack if you have to. A few whacks with a hammer should pop the joint out. Clean the hole out lightly, just to remove loose rust and dirt. Put the ball joint, minus the grease fitting ,,in the hole and use the jack with a block of wood, to put it in place.You may have to fiddle with the spindle to make sure it is lined up. I've never had any trouble using a 1ton trolley jack and the weight of the truck to put the lower ball joint back in. Replace the nut and grease fitting.
The new ball joints will probably come with cotter pins, use them. Make sure the new joints are tight or they will wear the holes in the spindle. Don't forget to grease the new joints. Hope this helps.
Posted on Jul 14, 2009
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