Question about Cars & Trucks
You don't say if the starter just spins real fast without turning over the engine. If so, the starter drive needs replaced.
Posted on Apr 28, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: '87 Iroc fuel port injection.
The pump is in the tank. Empty the tank, disconnect the filler and vent tubes, and remove the straps that hold it under the car. Take the strap bolts off the rear end and the front should just slide out. Have a jack ready to help lower and roll out of the way.
Posted on Aug 06, 2008
I i were you i would check the ignition. it sounds like you are only connecting some of the time. And yes it is very normal to hear the fuel pump kick on when you turn the key to the on position.
Posted on Jan 08, 2009
SOURCE: i was having problems with
I have worked on quite a few chevys and can tell you what I've found to work with this type of problem. When you replaced the starter, did you tug on the fusable links that connect to the solenoid to see if one of them was burned and loosing power? There are two or three short pieces of fusable link attached to wires that power the fuse block and other electrical circuits at the solenoid / battery cable connection that will stretch when you pull on them if they are bad. If they are, then you won't have power for the fuel pump, relays and other circuits to make the truck start.
If one is bad, cut the wire behind the link connection and put a **** splice and piece of wire on it with a ring terminal,and connect it to the solenoid. Turn on the ignition and listen for the fuel pump to buzz. The fuel pump is controled by the ECM and makes the pump turn on for 3 seconds to prime the system with fuel before starting the engine. One of the wires on the solenoid with a fusable link does this. If this works, your done.
If the truck won't crank when you try to start it, check the "S" terminal for power with a test light while someone turns the key. The "S" terminal on the solenoid comes from the ignition switch, to the neutral/backup / clutch switch to the starter. You'll have to check every point in between these for power to locate the problem. One bad connection or part will keep the starter from getting power to the "S" terminal. You can use a screw driver to test if the starter is working by touching the two terminals together.
While your under the truck, look at all the wires in the harness for any chafing or rubing, I once found a wire that rubbed through and was causing the problem.
Hope this helps, Craig
Posted on Dec 20, 2010
If you have Coil- on -Plug you haven't found the bad one yet
Your not always going to get a code that is correct
I would buy the injector from you, as I'm sure that wasn't it,
unless you have an air leak around it
You want no vacuum leaks,a near new EGR Valve,no
air induction tubing leaks
Clean the MAF Sensor with CRC MAF Cleaner
Clean Throttle Plate--CRC Throttle Body Cleaner
You did put anti-sieze on those spark plugs, if not
How old are the O2 Sensors
More than 80,000 mile,replace the front 2 with OEM
Specific Make--Bosch or NGK etc and not some
cut & splice universal type
Posted on Feb 01, 2011
Had a problem like this before and it was the computer..But you could faintly smell something like burnt wires..The computer should be down by the kick panel on the driverside..See if you smell anything on that side
Posted on Sep 08, 2011
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