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Ignition points Can the laddie start with no condenser.its fitted with luckas distrubutor

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Most any gas engine will run without a condenser, but not for long.
The condenser "stores" the voltage when the points open and close. This prevents the points from being burned up quickly. Without a condenser the points will be cooked in a few days.

Posted on Apr 28, 2013


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1969 chrysler 55hp outboard no spark

1. unplug the ignition cord from disrubutor ( in the center) try a start and check it if there is any ignition. If there is spark , the problem could be in distrubutor cap, there is a coil in it with spring, coil can be short to touch to dispensing reel. Or check for the platin adjustment.

2.Check the ignition coil's eletricity. There are 3 cables on it. I the center it goes to distrubutor. An the other two marked with the numbers ( mostly 1 and 15) 1 is negative side and the 15 is positive. And then turn the ignition swith don't start the starter.Check for if there is any eletricity. If there is no check the fuses.

Jun 13, 2014 | 2000 Ford Taurus

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How to set ignition timing

Hi Eric, Vehicles fitted with distributors using points (contact breakers) and condensers, which I believe is the case with your vehicle use a dwell angle setting. Initial setting is carried out with a feeler gauge. After replacing points and condenser, turn the engine until the rubbing block on the points is at the highest point against the distributor cam (at the centre of the distributor). Set the gap at 16 thousands of an inch or 0.45 mm. Inspect the front crankshaft fan belt pulley to identify the timing marks. Paint a white mark onto the pointer (fixed to the timing cover) and rotate the engine by hand until you see the timing scale on the crankshaft pulley. mark with white paint at 10 degrees BTDC and align the pulley to the pointer and set the points in the distributor (by releasing the locking bolt of the distributor body) to be at the exact point when it begins to open. Replace the cap and connect a stroboscopic timing light, start the engine and let it idle at normal idle speed and reset the ignition timing to the same marks painted with white paint. Don't forget to take all safety requirements seriously as you will be working on a running engine. Regards John

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Hi Horton, Are we dealing with a car using a carburetor and points and condenser ignition system? If so the fuel filter is usually fitted in the engine compartment, between the pump and the carburetor, but sometimes it can be in the fuel line before the pump. Its usually about an inch and a half in diameter and three inches long. Its usually translucent white plastic but can be metal. If your vehicle is spluttering and misfiring irregularly it will probably be caused by defective points and condenser. Replace them and set the gap to 0.45 mm and the ignition advance to 10 degrees BTDC. The Celica was hot during its day. Regards John

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Which way should the distrubutor point in a 89 gmc truck

If you line up the timing marks on the crank pulley, you have a 50/50 chance of the number one cylinder being at top dead center. If it is, the rotor points to the number one plug wire.

Jul 21, 2012 | 1989 GMC Sierra

1 Answer

Engine randomly cut out while driving or idiling,,, sometimes starts right back up other times takes a couple minutes... Cause?????

Hi Steven, I would think of replacing the the points (contact breaker) and condenser (capacitor) Theses are inside the distributor and revealed by removing the distributor cap. Remove the holding clips or screws (I don't remember which) and then lift off the cap and rotor arm. remove the cables connecting to the condenser and points. Remove both points and condenser and replace both and reconnect the electrical cables. Turn the engine by hand until the contact breaker is fully opened by one of the cam lobes on the center shaft and then adjust the gap to point four five millimeters. Rotate the engine again by hand until the points close and then with the ignition turned on but not cranking check you have spark by opening the points with a plastic tool. Once the spark is confirmed turn the engine to the timing marks (Please confirm ignition timing but I believe it is 6 degrees before Top Dead Center. Turn the engine so that the timing marks align at that setting and then set the points by loosening off the distributor body and rotating it so that the points are just about to open but are still closed. Tighten everything up and refit the rotor arm and cap and start the engine. For a more accurate setting of the distributor timing use a strobe timing light after initial start up. Always attend to the ignition timing before attempting any carburetor adjustment. Regards John

Apr 23, 2012 | 1984 Ford Mustang

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1974 225 runs good off idle dies when put in gear P. Lee

if it have a old type distrubutor with points and condenser I would put in a new condenser because they will let motor run at idle but when you try to drive it won't work.

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2 Answers

How to determine if a condenser is still functional.

The ignition condenser is needed for good coil saturation and is directly related to the voltage output of the coil, the weaker the ignition condenser is, the weaker the spark will be from the coil.

The signs to look for when replacing the ignition points are burnt or pitted contact surfaces at the breakers, and for a worn down rubbing block. (where the points contact the cam lobes inside the distributor)

The only things that you can do to prolong the life of the ignition points is to make sure that the rubbing block on the ignition points and the distributor cam lobes are properly lubricated with die-electric grease, and make sure that the dwell angle is properly set. (you would need a dwell meter to set the ignition points properly)

The only reason that the engine would stall from the ignition points is because either the condenser burned out, or the rubbing block wore down and the ignition points closed up. (The ignition points should open and close to provide a primary signal to the coil, if they do close up, you can get home by using a piece of a match book cover to set the gap for the ignition points, it is approximate enough to work well enough to get you back home if stranded from closed up ignition points)

I hope that this was helpful to you in any way.

Apr 27, 2010 | Isuzu Pickup Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1966 ford f100 inline 6 cyl 300\r\engine turns

Make sure that the primary wire between the distributor ignition points and ignition coil is not damaged anywhere and grounding the circuit out. This is not a ground wire.

Replace the ignition points condenser, if this is shorted your points will never be able to work. With the condenser removed, use an ohm meter to check the resistance between the end of the condenser wire and the condenser caseing, there should be infinite resistance or an open loop, but it should not show any kind of a connection between the two, or it is grounded or "shorted to ground" and it will prevent the ignition system from working.

Are the ignition points adjusted properly? They have to open and close to send a dwell signal to the coil.

Connect a test light to ground and on the NEG. (-) side of the coil, have someone crank the engine and look for the test light to flash, the test light should flash indicating a dwell signal or coil pulse. (Do not use the POS. + side of the coil for this test, because you will not get a dwell signal).

If no dwell signal, then...

1. Turn off ignition and remove the distributor cap and turn the engine over until a high spot on the distributor cam lobe is on the rubbing block on the ignition points.

This is the fully open position for the ignition points and where they need to be to set them. and if you do not know the feeler gauge size, or the dwell angle to set your points at (according to manufacturers specifications), then tear off a piece of a match book and place it between the two point breakers.

2. Loosen the point hold down adjusting screw and move the base of the points with a screwdriver (look for adjusting nothches), until there is a light drag felt pulling on the match book. For the newer GM's up to 1974, just use a 1/8 allen wrench to obtain the same light drag on the match book.

3. Remove the matchbook and there should still be a small gap between the point breakers, rotate the engine and you should see the points open and fully close.

4. Pull the coil wire out of the distributor cap and ground the end of the coil wire well or you might get shocked.

5. Have someone crank the engine and re-check for a dwell signal, you should also see a blue-white spark flashing between the point breakers as they open and close.

If you now have a dwell signal then replace the distributor cap back onto the distributor and the the coil wire back onto the distributor cap, the engine should now start.

If you did not grease the rubbing block of the ignition points with die-electric grease when you installed them, then the rubbing block on the points will wear down prematurely, the points will close down, and the engine will no longer start.

If you crank your engine over and the ignition rotor turns clockwise (looking down at the rotor) then you need to put the die-electric grease along the right side of the rubbing block edge (looking down at the points) so that the grease is trapped between the points and the distributor cam lobe, and the distributor cam lobe can pick up the grease. (Grease the left side of the rubbing block edge if the ignition rotor turns counter-clockwise). Only use die-electric grease.

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1 Answer

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The ballast resistor only weekens the power to the contact points while the engine is starting after that the secondary wiring "is" a built in resistor. I suggest you use the ballast or you'll be changing a lot of point sets.Just out of curiousity, why would you want to convert back to an older and proven obsolete type system?

Aug 25, 2009 | 1979 Ford F 350

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