Question about 1997 Mazda MPV
I have Been burring up distributor caps, It stared over a year ago, code tripped for random misfire, and I replaced everything, and about 3 moths later the code tripped and I pulled the cap an router and they where burned, the next few lasted about a month each , last I replaced the distributor(the coil is built into the distributor) but it still burned up the cap within a month. I then replaced again ,and the cap burned up within about 10 minutes of driving, and the distributor got so hot that the plastic plate at the bottom(below the rotor) split. I tried replacing the cap again and it burned up in the driveway. I though I might have a faulty distributor, so I sent it back and got a new one, same problem. I checked all the grounds replaced the battery cables, I have continuity back to the computer, I finally swallowed my pride an took it to a shop who told me there was just too much play in the aftermarket parts(he said it was wobbling), and had me replace the cap and rotor with dealer parts, they burned up in about 10 minutes of idling in the driveway. I cant see any wobble when I have some turn it, I have a feeling its something electrical but I have no Idea where to go.
Most likely the ignition coil or its resistor (the resistor might be [an intergral] part of the coil.
Posted on Apr 28, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Wont Start
Have another look at your plug wires, and make sure that you have them in the right order. As you probably know, if the firing order is wrong, you can have problems. That is somewhere for you to start, anyway.
Posted on Jan 08, 2009
Drive it into a dark place, or wait till dark. When it's running poorly, see if you can see any spark flying around. It sounds like plug wires.
Posted on Mar 04, 2009
Hello, It sounds like an engine ignition control module gone out or a coil. They get hot and quit working after a short period of time, cool off then work again till they get hot.
Is the ignition system pointless electronic or does it have points? Are you getting any fire at all now to the cylinders? Does the tach in the vehicle show any RPM's during cranking? Do you have voltage at the positive side of the ignition coil? Does the coil meet the ohm ratings for that years vehicle ignition? Does the vehicle have oil in it so the oil pressure sensor allows the engine to run, this may not be an option on your particular vehicle? You can check most of this out with a volt/ohm meter. Check your voltages before starting the vehicle, during running and after it quits to see where the loss is. Just don't get near the center tap of the coil or you will get a rude awakening and/or serious injury. Good luck, RAC
Posted on Apr 18, 2009
SOURCE: hesitation during acceleration
could be the type of plug you are using.I was told only to use ngk plugs.I recently put bosch plugs in my mazda 3 and the check engine light came on and it started missfiring.
Posted on May 03, 2009
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