Question about 2004 Ford F150

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After you change brake pads on a 2004 F150 and put everything back together do you have to "bleed them" or do you just get in it and go? Or do you have to pump the brakes? Just not sure

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  • Ford Master
  • 1,209 Answers

As long as you do not open the system to where it can get air into it you should not have to bleed them, but you will want to pump them to get the pads back against the disks before you put the truck into gear or you will be pumping like mad until you do.

Posted on Apr 27, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: 1987 F150 Spongy Brake Pedal

CHANGE THE PROPORTIONING VALVE. IT IS BAD. THE PRICE IS 345.00 AT FORD. WHEN YOU DO YOUR BRAKES MAKE SURE THAT YOU OPEN ALL YOUR BLEEDER ON ALL BRAKES

Posted on Nov 28, 2008

chuck943
  • 783 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 focus brake & ABS light on

Ok the reason I ask is that will help to pinpoint the concern. See ABS system when you first turn the ignition on will do a self test on itself,light turns on for a few seconds then turns off if everything proves out. Then when you start driving once you reach about 12 mph it will activate the pump and perform a 2nd self test.If everything is ok light stays off,if it see's a problem it turns on the light and disables the ABS.
Since yours comes on after you start driving then problem is most likely a wheel speed sensor concern. Since you just did a rear brake job and the problem started after this I would say it is one of the rear sensors.You need to look at the sensors and make sure the sensor and ring look ok and that you didn't get grease or dirt in the teeth of the sensor ring or maybe bent the end of one of the sensors and make the gap larger between sensor and ring.

Posted on Feb 21, 2009

Molson02536
  • 3854 Answers

SOURCE: having trouble bleeding brakes on my ford f150 4x4

1 Siphon off the old brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir under the hood.
2 Fill the reservoir with new brake fluid (don't reuse old fluid as it holds moisture and will corrode your brake system).

3 Start with the brake farthest from the Master cylinder, usually rear wheel, passenger side. Pull off the rubber cover on the bleeder valve. Attach the aquarium air line to the nipple on the bleeder.

4 Have your assistant pump the brake pedal up and down 3-4 times, then hold the pedal down fairly hard.
5 Open the bleeder, let fluid flow out through the air line into a waste container. (preferrably a clear bottle so you can see any air bubbles escaping the system). When the fluid stops and your assistant's foot hits the firewall (brake pedal all the way down), close the bleeder valve immediately!
6 Go to step #4 above and drain more fluid out of the bleeder valve until clean fluid comes out. Check the master cylinder every time and top it up as necessary. This procedure uses lots of fluid.

7 Now move to the rear brake on the driver's side. Go to step #4 and repeat the same procedures above until clean fluid comes out of the bleeder valve and no bubbles.
8 Next is the front brake, passenger side, same procedure. Then the drivers side and the same procedure.
9 When finished check for any leaks, remount rubber covers on the bleeder valve nipples. Remount all wheels, re-torque lug nuts after 50-100 miles of driving.
10 Start vehicle and depress the brake pedal. It should feel much less spongy than before this procedure. If not, there is air in the system, start over. Bleed everything again.
Note: if you assistant releases the brake pedal before you can close the bleeder valve then air will be introduced into the brake lines. This is no good! Before you start tell your assistant you will tell him/her PUMP, HOLD DOWN, RELEASE commands.

That's it, you're done. Congratulate yourself on saving some cash instead of handing it over to a mechanic.

Posted on May 13, 2009

udesh99
  • 97 Answers

SOURCE: air in the brake line ,bleed brakes ,replace pads

Please Check Fluid flow Divider Valve & Servo Unit.

Posted on Dec 22, 2009

  • 506 Answers

SOURCE: rear brakes on 2006 f150 need changing

There should be two bolts that hold the caliper to the axle assembly. Remove these two bolts and slide the caliper off. At this point check the rotors for abnormal wear or grooves. Depending on how many miles you have on them I would replace them regardless. Before you insert the new pads into the caliper I like to use a C clamp and a piece of flatstock to force the pistons back to their original location. If you don't do this you will not be able to fit the caliper over the rotor. Before installing the caliper if you did buy the new rotors use some brake cleaner to remove any of the cosmoline oil that they are shipped with. Remember to chock your front wheels or use jackstands if you have enough. Good luck!

Posted on Feb 13, 2010

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Hi Patrick I'm Peter a Master Mechanic of 30 .Yes and if you are having to ask that it may be a good idea to have someone else do it or have a friend that is experienced to walk you through it. I am not being mean but you can get easily hurt or even killed if you do not have the required experience. The tires have to come off and the vehicle has to be properly set on stands not the car jack. Car jacks slip all the time and cars fall. The caliper then has to be removed and the old pads slid out and the new ones installed. There is a special tool you use to press the caliper piston slowly back into the caliper so that when you put the caliper back on it will easily slide over. Once everything is back together and tightened then you may have to bleed the brakes. Some vehicles with ABS brakes have to have special computers hooked to them to cycle the ABS pump. Standard brakes you have a little different procedure. Hope this helps you be safe.

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IF the hand brake activates through the caliper piston unit and it was necessary to screw the piston back in to fit the new pads then you will have to readjust the hand brake .. The may be a bleed nipple on the abs unit . It is not necessary to run the engine to bleed the brakes. IF you used a clamp to push the piston back in then there may be crap in the master cylinder that is affecting the operation of the non-return valve at the outlet of the master-cylinder.

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bleed your brakes to check if rear brakes are still working. after bleeding, check your brake master if it puts pressure equally to the 4 brakes.

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