Question about 1993 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 98 chevy s10 blazer turn signal
Unplug the turn signal relay from the fuse box and start you engine. Does it still make that noise?
If yes... Put the relay back in, that is not the problem.
If No...Then the relay could be bad, replace it!
PLEASE RATE THIS SOLUTION! Thank You Very Much!
Posted on Nov 25, 2008
have one person in the blazer pumping the brake pedal and then hold to the floor, crack the bleeder then tighten, release pedal, repeat till all air is out one side at a time, if this does not work then your ABS unit is bad witch if u follow your lines from your master cylinder u will find a black box with a motor on it, or the master cylinder itself is bad, it also can cause u to have no pedal, replace the master cylinder first, most likely cheaper.
Posted on Mar 11, 2009
Oh boy I just finished one in a 92 and let me tell ya its no fun at all. Typical bolt up pattern for the trans and torqe converter, but due to lack of space you will need to remove the entire exaust from the manifold, undo it from the catalytic converter, remove the converter, removing the front inner fernder wells makes this much easyier access. Now after the drive shafts and exaust and all the other fun stuff has been removed, you need to undo the frnt raiator support body mounts and all the body mounts but the back. using a good solid jack and a board wide enough to distribute the force, jack the body up away from the frame about 5 to 6 inches. The reason for all this si that the top 2 tranny mount bolts usualy will not back out of their holes without hitting the firewall as they unthread. Having the cab jacked up also makes it easier to undo the tranny lines and brackets that are hidden up under the body where they are hard to get to. Another biggie is to take the transfer case out first seperate from the trans because only the front crossmember holding the trans is easily removed. The rear one will hold the tail of the tranfercase and your trans will still be pressed against the engine if you dont do this making it impossible to lower the trans even with everything unbolted. Dont forget to undo the converter bolts,3 of them in these, and if you dont have electronic 4wheel, undo the transfer case linkage via the one large bolt with the grease fitting on the top of the trans. Make sure if you dont have push button 4 wheel that the new trans has the same boltholes for the linkage plate for the tranfercase shifter as ones that came with eletronic shift are essentialy the same, but dont have these bolt holes tapped in them. Once you get it all together, dont forget to reset your detent cable that runs to the throttle linkage or you will fry the new trans. Good luck, hope this helps.
Posted on Mar 15, 2009
Pitman arm requires a pitman arm puller, and a tie rod seperator or "pickle fork". Remove the cotter pin on from the joint on the pitman arm and center link, then remove the nuts from both ends of pitman arm. Use the pitman arm puller to remove the pitman arm from the steering gear, then use the tie rod seperator to remove the end from the center link. Reinstall and retighten nuts, do not leave out the cotter pin.
Idler arm will require tie rod seperator. Remove the cotter pin from the end at the center link, use the tie rod seperator to seperate the joint there. Unbolt the idler arm from the frame, and remove. On reinstalling remember to install a new cotter pin. It would be best to have the front end alignment checked after replacing these parts.
Posted on Apr 08, 2010
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