Question about 2008 Jeep Liberty

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2008 Jeep Liberty

My 2008 jeep liberty won't start. everything else seems to work fine. we have no responce when we try to turn it on. Also the electric key entry doesn't work. We can lock it manually only. what can I do? It won't jump start either. sincerely, Kathy

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  • Contributor
  • 47 Answers

Possible solution - This happened to me and my battery was dead in my key fob and also I needed an ignition switch because a piece on it was broken which therefore wouldn't turn to start the engine.

Posted on Jun 01, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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JMMARRERO59
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SOURCE: 2002 jeep liberty power tailgate won't open without using a key

POSSIBILITY YOU LOCK MOTOR SEIZED.

Posted on Jan 19, 2009

seans46
  • 161 Answers

SOURCE: power locks on 04 jeep liberty not working

Most of the times on jeeps and all chrysler auto's they have a body control modual this is what controls your door locks , windows ect. It should be in the owners manual for all fuse location and identification. A shop with a scanner can check the door lock system for you. body control moduals go bad alot on all chyslers and if you buy one you need to buy it from the dealership they will program it . So check the owners manual for a fuse and then have the body control mod checked

Posted on Jun 02, 2009

  • 65 Answers

SOURCE: Jeep liberty 2002.....ignition key lock

Most commonly it is the key is worn out. If you have a spare key or your current one is not too badly worn, have a copy of it made and try it in the switch. You will have to have the copy key "coded" so it will disable the anti-theft system in order for the engine to start. If the new key doesn't fix your problem, you will have to replace the tumbler assembly.

Posted on Nov 20, 2009

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: 2008 Jeep Liberty Won't Start and Sentry Key doesn't work.

check battery connections especially the ground

Posted on Feb 05, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Install a 05 Jeep Liberty 3.7 in a 02 Liberty

BEFORE you put the engine in you must convert it with your old engine's crankshaft position ring and it's pick-up sensor. This ring can ONLY be changed with the engine upside down and out of the car. All rods must be disconnected, all mains are part of a cast saddle that must be removed, the front engine covers and all the timing chains must be removed, and finally the crankshaft must be lifted out and the ring must be hammer-unscrewed (impact screw driver, but I forget now if the taper-headed screws are allen, hex, star or phillips). DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME REMOVING THE HEADS. The ring is ENTIRELY different than the one the computer system on the 02 Liberty can recognize (this is what triggers your spark timing). Next is the magnetic pick up 'wheel' located on the front of the passenger's side of the over-head camshaft. This magnetic cup wheel triggers the '02 fuel injection system (don't un-magnetize it). Lastly, the '02 plastic intake manifold (w/ O rings for seals) for the '02 has an additional port, this is an easy swap-out. Mostly there are no gaskets- the finish is so fine they just use a factory sealer (comes in a tube). Buy it, it's cheap enough and it matches the factory's specs. Taking the engine back out/in is NOT fun, but with the engine on a stand, and with no time constraints it's managable (but still not fun). I made that exact engine swap myself and went through a lot of anguish learning all of this. By-the-by, these engines will NOT tolerate dirty oil. DO NOT EVER try and stretch out your oil changes, because they run really hot (due to the windage tray that prevents oil mist from coating the engine's internals) an ash will form and goop up the insides. The fine oil pick-up screen (drilled plate) will always clog up. If it's been a long time since the last change and your engine is still running fine, when you get around to putting in new high detergent oil it sorta un-sludges the goop and REALLY coats the pick-up. DEATH BY SUFFICATION. If you're ever at this point (no damage yet) I would suggest doing the oil change (before there's any knocking or signs the engine is failing) and I would do 2 more oil & filter changes @500 miles each; hopfully you'll dislodge the ash/sludge and get it out of the engine. Once damage has started it progresses very quickly- this engine is not very tolerant. Your oil will be gold color, and yet your enging will sieze because it can't 'get to it'. BEST OF LUCK- this is very do-able, but you might first investigate if you can swap out the engine management computor and wire harness and maybe avoid all of this above mentioned wrenching. No back ground info here, plus I didn't have access to the vehicle the 05 engine was snatched out of- sorry, and good luck again. One last bit of advice- I bought a zero miles engine from a National Highway Admin. crash/test vehicle. When I broke the engine down ALL the timing marks on all three chains were not aligned and had to ALL be set- I guess they might do that to prevent the parts from re-entering the 'system'? Or, some dumb s__t at the factory was new and/or pi__ed-off and this engine was just plopped in the donated/untitled crash vehicle rather than ripping it back apart and re-assembling it. The damn Jeep fired on the second crank and is running fine now (2 years later). Ciao4Now, Brian Fahey

Posted on Feb 22, 2010

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