Question about 2008 Jeep Liberty
My 2008 jeep liberty won't start. everything else seems to work fine. we have no responce when we try to turn it on. Also the electric key entry doesn't work. We can lock it manually only. what can I do? It won't jump start either. sincerely, Kathy
Possible solution - This happened to me and my battery was dead in my key fob and also I needed an ignition switch because a piece on it was broken which therefore wouldn't turn to start the engine.
Posted on Jun 01, 2014
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Most of the times on jeeps and all chrysler auto's they have a body control modual this is what controls your door locks , windows ect. It should be in the owners manual for all fuse location and identification. A shop with a scanner can check the door lock system for you. body control moduals go bad alot on all chyslers and if you buy one you need to buy it from the dealership they will program it . So check the owners manual for a fuse and then have the body control mod checked
Posted on Jun 02, 2009
Most commonly it is the key is worn out. If you have a spare key or your current one is not too badly worn, have a copy of it made and try it in the switch. You will have to have the copy key "coded" so it will disable the anti-theft system in order for the engine to start. If the new key doesn't fix your problem, you will have to replace the tumbler assembly.
Posted on Nov 20, 2009
BEFORE you put the engine in you must convert it with your old engine's crankshaft position ring and it's pick-up sensor. This ring can ONLY be changed with the engine upside down and out of the car. All rods must be disconnected, all mains are part of a cast saddle that must be removed, the front engine covers and all the timing chains must be removed, and finally the crankshaft must be lifted out and the ring must be hammer-unscrewed (impact screw driver, but I forget now if the taper-headed screws are allen, hex, star or phillips). DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME REMOVING THE HEADS. The ring is ENTIRELY different than the one the computer system on the 02 Liberty can recognize (this is what triggers your spark timing). Next is the magnetic pick up 'wheel' located on the front of the passenger's side of the over-head camshaft. This magnetic cup wheel triggers the '02 fuel injection system (don't un-magnetize it). Lastly, the '02 plastic intake manifold (w/ O rings for seals) for the '02 has an additional port, this is an easy swap-out. Mostly there are no gaskets- the finish is so fine they just use a factory sealer (comes in a tube). Buy it, it's cheap enough and it matches the factory's specs. Taking the engine back out/in is NOT fun, but with the engine on a stand, and with no time constraints it's managable (but still not fun). I made that exact engine swap myself and went through a lot of anguish learning all of this. By-the-by, these engines will NOT tolerate dirty oil. DO NOT EVER try and stretch out your oil changes, because they run really hot (due to the windage tray that prevents oil mist from coating the engine's internals) an ash will form and goop up the insides. The fine oil pick-up screen (drilled plate) will always clog up. If it's been a long time since the last change and your engine is still running fine, when you get around to putting in new high detergent oil it sorta un-sludges the goop and REALLY coats the pick-up. DEATH BY SUFFICATION. If you're ever at this point (no damage yet) I would suggest doing the oil change (before there's any knocking or signs the engine is failing) and I would do 2 more oil & filter changes @500 miles each; hopfully you'll dislodge the ash/sludge and get it out of the engine. Once damage has started it progresses very quickly- this engine is not very tolerant. Your oil will be gold color, and yet your enging will sieze because it can't 'get to it'. BEST OF LUCK- this is very do-able, but you might first investigate if you can swap out the engine management computor and wire harness and maybe avoid all of this above mentioned wrenching. No back ground info here, plus I didn't have access to the vehicle the 05 engine was snatched out of- sorry, and good luck again. One last bit of advice- I bought a zero miles engine from a National Highway Admin. crash/test vehicle. When I broke the engine down ALL the timing marks on all three chains were not aligned and had to ALL be set- I guess they might do that to prevent the parts from re-entering the 'system'? Or, some dumb s__t at the factory was new and/or pi__ed-off and this engine was just plopped in the donated/untitled crash vehicle rather than ripping it back apart and re-assembling it. The damn Jeep fired on the second crank and is running fine now (2 years later). Ciao4Now, Brian Fahey
Posted on Feb 22, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Dec 08, 2015 | 2005 Jeep Liberty
Apr 26, 2013 | 2008 Jeep Liberty
Mar 16, 2013 | 2002 Jeep Liberty
Jan 17, 2013 | 2002 Jeep Liberty
Mar 27, 2012 | 2006 Jeep Liberty Limited
Mar 03, 2012 | 2007 Jeep Liberty Sport
Oct 07, 2017 | 2005 Jeep Liberty
Sep 19, 2010 | 2008 Jeep Liberty
Feb 05, 2010 | 2008 Jeep Liberty
427 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: