Question about Cars & Trucks
Car started jerking on the interstate so I pulled over. It shut off and now it won't start at all. Changed my fuel pump and it still won't crank. Any other solutions???? My car is a 2001 nissan altima
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
When you changed your fuel pump did you also change the fuel filter? If not, that would be the next logical step. While you have it disconnected you can also check to make sure the fuel pump is pumping the fuel.
Posted on Aug 18, 2011
SOURCE: cranks over but won't start
Don't no if i can solve your problem but can you hear the fuel pump work for about 3 sec.s after you turn the ign. key on. If so then you should be getting fuel. If not you may have a blowed fuse or bad fuel relay. Sometimes its worth the cost to replace pump, relay , fuel filter , when the pump goes out. I had a truck that burnt up two fuel pumps before i done this. If your getting fuel, be careful not to miss up a plug wire but pull one off and put a old plug on it, lay it on or ground it to metal of the car, not close to something that will start a fire and have someone turn the motor over and you watch to see if it sparks. If it sparks I don't no anything else besides jumped time. Try this at your on risk but its just a few simple things to try. From one person with auto problems to another
Posted on Sep 09, 2011
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My name is Ben and I'm your guru, i.e., mentor, an influential teacher or popular expert: a management guru. - origin from Sanskrit, 'weighty, grave', for today.
As you evaluate my advice and suggestions, there are a few things you must keep in mind:
• I did not diagnose your problem and am therefore only able to evaluate what you tell me. For example, if you ask me a fuse location, that doesn't mean that I can tell you the reason why the fuse blew.
• A thorough diagnostic approach involves the use of technical equipment, such as voltage meters. scanning equipment and other sophisticated devices.
• Lastly, fixing one problem can very easily reveal a problem with something that you might consider unrelated. However, you must keep in mind that I can only evaluate and suggest based on the information that you provide.
Subject: Vehicle will not start
Your description of the problem: 1988 nissan 300zx won't start it gets fire, and fuel, cranks but won't start it has been sitting up for couple years but would't start is why I purchased the car I replaced the plugs, previous owner said he thought it was a fuel problem, but pump works, new f/filter new fuel rail, hose and clamps .
Discussion: Late model vehicles are highly computer controlled to reduce emissions, maximize fuel economy and improve consumer comfort. The various control systems in vehicles are interrelated and controlled by multiple computers that constantly monitor vehicle performance through a myriad of sensors located throughout the vehicle. Based on information received, the computers adjust the vehicle performance through a series of valves, switches and motors. You must use a scanner to unlock the information stored in your car's computer. Your 300Z is OBD -1 compliant.
A Scan Tool can be used to read and erase trouble codes, display, record and play back LIVE diagnostic data and perform other tests allowed by the vehicle maker. Scan tools that cover vehicles 1982 to present are available at your local auto supply dealer.
You don't indicate any diagnostic tests to date. A dealer or your local mechanic will charge $100-$200 to perform a diagnostic scan. However, AutoZone will sell you one for less than $30. Anyone who tells you that a modern vehicle can be diagnosed without a scanner with the problems you have set forth is merely guessing. You car has a computer and memory and probably knows exactly what the problem is. That on-board computer is just waiting for you to ask, "What's wrong". All of the suggestions cited below will require the use of a code scanner or a code reader.
This is how your problem is solved in my shop. Out of the box, I'd say that you have a problem with the fuel management system or one of the system sensors that is causing the on-board computer to make adjustments as best it can. However, there's a good chance that it's something simple and inexpensive like a camshaft position sensor or a bad fuel pressure regulator.
This is where you'll start.
Difficulty: Moderately Challenging
Start with the pre-check:
Do a Thorough Visual Inspection
Do a thorough visual and "hands-on" underhood inspection before starting any diagnostic procedure! You can find the cause of many problems by just looking, thereby saving yourself a lot of time.
• Has the vehicle been serviced
recently? Sometimes things get
reconnected in the wrong place, or
not at all.
• Don't take shortcuts. Inspect hoses
and wiring which may be difficult to
see due to location.
• Inspect the air cleaner and
ductwork for defects.
• Check sensors and actuators for
• Inspect ignition wires for:
- Damaged terminals.
- Split or cracked spark plug boots
- Splits, cuts or breaks in the ignition
wires and insulation.
• Inspect all vacuum hoses for:
- Correct routing. Refer to vehicle
service manual, or Vehicle Emission
Control Information (VECI)
decal located in the engine compartment.
- Pinches and kinks.
- Splits, cuts or breaks.
• Inspect wiring for:
- Contact with sharp edges.
- Contact with hot surfaces, such as
- Pinched, burned or chafed insulation.
- Proper routing and connections.
• Check electrical connectors for:
- Corrosion on pins.
- Bent or damaged pins.
- Contacts not properly seated in
- Bad wire crimps to terminals
-Lastly, check for water in the fuel. Pour in a can of Heet and a bottle of injector cleaner.
Check the entire fuel delivery system.
DO NOT RUN OUT AND BUY ANYTHING YET! This was only the opening act.
All of the above systems are monitored by the Engine Control Module/ Powertrain Module (a.k.a. on-board computer). A diagnostic scan retrieves any inform related to the malfunctioning parts and tells you precisely what is wrong. Perform the scan diagnostic now.
Be guided by the scan diagnosis and the problem should be fixed.
Start the car and perform another scan. The reason we rescan and repair non-related codes after the engine is running is because sometime false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, e.g.,if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is okay with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.
I know that the above is wordy but I wanted to do more than just tell you that your problem is complex.
All the best,
Posted on Sep 22, 2011
there could be a number of reasons why. Many factors must come together for an engine to successfully start. The energy flow sends a spark from the battery into the electrical components of your engine. The air flow pulls in air, filters particles from it and mixes the clean air with fuel in the carburetor or fuel injection system to trigger the small charge that forces the engine to start. The fuel flow pulls in the gas, filters impurities from it, and sends it to the right component.
Read more: car obd2 diagnostic tool
Posted on Aug 06, 2012
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