Question about 1999 Pontiac Grand Am GT

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99 potiac grand am no brake pressure

Changed brakes, bled brakes at all 4 wheels (multiple times) changed master cylinder, changed rear wheel cylinders and still have no brake pressure. What is wrong with this car?

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  • Pontiac Master
  • 15,639 Answers

What order did you replace the items in

Posted on Apr 26, 2013

  • Stephanie Mitchell Apr 28, 2013

    Cv axle, front brakes, bled all brakes, master cylinder, bled all brakes, wheel cylinder, bled all brakes then changed the master cylinder again! And bled all brakes including abs unit. Still no brake pressure while ingnition is on.

  • Stephanie Mitchell Apr 28, 2013

    Found small fluid leak between (2nd) new master cylinder and booster, checked to see if their is supposed to be a gasket there and have found nothing about it. Could this be causing my loss of brake pressure? And how do I fix it??

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Is the brake booster going out?

Let me know what you find out. I get the same whoosh/pedal travel, and at this point have NO braking at all. I am also losing fluid nearly as fast as I can put it in if I use the brakes, but I can't find where it's coming out. I even drove on clean snow and don't see any fluid tracks...

Oddly enough if you are going to do it yourself, gmpartsdirect seems to have the best prices for OEM parts.

I am assuming that my rusted/pitted brake lines have failed me. Aaahhh the old money pit.

Posted on Jan 13, 2009

  • 836 Answers

SOURCE: My kid bought a 99

If the car has Drum style rear brakes, make sure the adjustment is good. It takes a lot of fluid to activate them.
PS. I assume you did bleed the rears.

Posted on Apr 12, 2011

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2 Answers

Abs light is and so is brake light


Hi Kathy, I'm guessing that you mean you've replaced the brake master cylinder. It helps to be as specific as possible, so we can help you in a specific way. Make sure that the brake fluid pipes connecting the master cylinder are sealing correctly. There must be no leakage from them at all. Fill the reservoir and keep it filled throughout the whole bleeding procedure by having someone topping up each time the level goes down. Begin the bleeding procedure at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and move one wheel at a time closer. The procedure is to push the pedal repeatedly to the floor and releasing to come full travel to the top of its movement. Repeat several times and while holding the pedal fully depressed to the floor open and close the bleeding valve on the wheel being bled before beginning the pumping action over. Once all wheels have been bled and you have reached the wheel closest to the master cylinder, if the pressure in the system is insufficient repeat the whole job until brake pedal pressure is normal. Look for signs of leakage on all four wheels in the event there is a leak on a wheel cylinder. The brake warning light should extinguish when the park brake is released and the ABS light when pressure is normal in the system, unless there is another separate fault. Finish up on the bleeding first and let me know how you get on. We'll tackle one job at a time. Regards John

Oct 14, 2012 | 1998 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

How do I bleed brakes on a dodge stratus 1998


  • PRESSURE BLEEDING
  • MANUAL BLEEDING
  • Print
    For vehicles equipped with an Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), please refer to the ABS bleeding procedure at the end of this section.
    The purpose of bleeding the brakes is to expel air trapped in the hydraulic system. The system must be bled whenever the pedal feels spongy, indicating that compressible air has entered the system. It must also be bled whenever the system has been opened or repaired. If you are not using a pressure bleeder, you will need a helper for this job.

    WARNING Never reuse brake fluid which has been bled from the brake system.


    MASTER CYLINDER

    See Figure 1
    If the master cylinder is off the vehicle, it can be bench bled.

    1. Secure the master cylinder in a bench vise.
    2. Connect 2 short pieces of brake line to the outlet fittings, bend them until the free end is below the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoirs.
    3. Fill the reservoir with fresh DOT 3 type brake fluid.
    4. Using a wooden dowel, or equivalent, pump the piston slowly several times until no more air bubbles appear in the reservoirs.



    0900c15280089cdc.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Fig. 1: Attach bleeding tubes to the master cylinder and position them as shown

    1. Disconnect the 2 short lines, refill the master cylinder and securely install the cylinder cap.
    2. If the master cylinder is on the vehicle, it can still be bled, using a flare nut wrench.
    3. Open the brake lines slightly with the flare nut wrench, while pressure is applied to the brake pedal by a helper inside the vehicle.
    4. Be sure to tighten the line before the brake pedal is released.
    5. Repeat the process with both lines until no air bubbles come out.
    6. Bleed the complete brake system, if necessary.

    If the master cylinder has been thoroughly bled and filled to the proper level upon installation into the vehicle, it is not necessary to bleed the entire hydraulic system.


    PRESSURE BLEEDING

    When bleeding the brakes, air may be trapped in the brake lines or valves far upstream, as much as 10 feet from the bleeder screw. Therefore, it is very important to have a fast flow of a large volume of brake fluid when bleeding the brakes, to make sure all of the air is expelled from the system.
    On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
    On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel

    1. You should use bleeder tank tool C-3496-B or equivalent, with the required adapter for the master cylinder reservoir to pressurize the hydraulic system for bleeding. Make sure to follow the manufacturer's directions for using a pressure bleeder.
    2. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
    3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn or more to get a steady stream of fluid.
    4. After about 4-8 oz. of fluid has been bled through the brake system and an air-free flow is maintained in the hose and jar, close the bleeder screw.
    5. Repeat the procedure at all the other remaining bleeder screws. Then, check the pedal for travel. If pedal travel is excessive or has not improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Be sure to monitor the fluid level in the pressure bleeder. It must stay at the proper level so air will not be allowed to re-enter the brake system through the master cylinder reservoir.
    6. Once the bleeding procedure is complete, remove the pressure bleeding equipment from the master cylinder.


    MANUAL BLEEDING

    See Figure 2
    Proper manual bleeding of the hydraulic brake system will require the use of an assistant.
    On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
    On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel


    0900c15280089cdd.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Fig. 2: With a clear plastic hose in a container of clean brake fluid, open the bleeder screw at least one full turn

    1. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
    2. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-4 times, and hold it down before the bleeder screw is opened.
    3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn. When the bleeder screw opens, the brake pedal will drop.
    4. Close the bleeder screw. Release the brake pedal only AFTER the bleeder screw is closed.
    5. Repeat the procedure 4 or 5 times at each bleeder screw, then check the pedal for travel. If the pedal travel is not excessive, or has not been improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Make sure to watch the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. It must stay at the proper level so air will not re-enter the brake system.
    6. Test drive the vehicle to be sure the brakes are operating correctly and that the pedal is solid.

    May 31, 2012 | 1998 Dodge Stratus

    1 Answer

    I have changed the rear rotors and brake pads, bled the brakes after putting itall back together. Seemed to have brakes but then shortly thereafter they are like a sponge. Last time I tried bleeding them...


    Hi, bleeding your rear brakes with engine running, you should get enough pressure out of the lines to squirt 3-4 feet. In other words, good pressure. If all you get is a trickle, you probably have a bad master cylinder. Just because its full of fluid, does not mean the seals arent shot. If you have bled them in order, left rear,right rear,left front,right fornt and have bled them enough to get fresh fluid out of each one without achieving good solid pressure at all wheels, replace your master cylinder. There is a proportioning valve, but usually it will affect only one wheel when going out, usually the left rear.
    Brake pedal height comes from the rear brakes, so if you have bad pressure there, you will never get a good pedal. Eventually with a bad master, your brakes will go completly out..Mike

    Jun 20, 2011 | 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Truck

    2 Answers

    2000 mercury cougar.....no brake paddle we replaced master cly,booster......what can it be


    did you bleed all of the air from the master cylinder before you installed it, this has to be done. also when replacing the master cylinder, all 4 wheel cylinders will have to be bled, in order to get all of the air out of them. while doing the wheel cylinder bleeding , you will have to make sure that the master cylinder doe's not run out of brake fluid, check it each time you bleed a wheel cylinder , add brake fluid to the master cylinder each time or when it is getting low. hope that this has helped you.

    Apr 16, 2011 | 2000 Mercury Cougar

    1 Answer

    I changed a weel cylinder on the drivers side and changed the breaks and the drums got fluide out of the new cylinder but the breaks will not come up when i start up the car


    have you bled the brakes after you changed that wheel cylinder? if not, then that's your problem. you need 2 people to bleed the brakes, and start at rear drivers side. then rear passenger side and then drivers front wheel. make sure you have a large container of brake fluid before you start.you will find the bleeder valves on the rear wheel on the inside of rear wheel at the top of wheel, jack it up, use jackstands for safety, crawl under the car and look at the top of wheel for a small bleeder valve. have someone inside the car pump up the brake pedal until they feel the pedal come up with pressure applied.hold pressure on pedal,open bleeder valve on wheel.you will see a small ammount of fluid come out, tighten the valve back and repeat the process again until you see a steadt stream come out. when you see that move to other rear wheel and repeat that process again. after you get that one bled, move to passenger front wheel and repeat that again,remember to tell your helper to keep pressure on brakes until youtighten the bleeders,if not you're wasting time. you helper will have to pump the brakes up on each time and hold pressure on pedal until you have each bleeder tight or else it will **** air into the brake and thats the reason you'll have to bleed them,because when you replaced that wheel cylinder,you let air into the whole braking system. if this doe'nt help,please repost you question on process of bleeding brakes and fixya.com will be happy to assist.

    Dec 30, 2010 | 1997 Saturn SL

    1 Answer

    Changed front brakes on 2000 grand cherokee, bled brakes, and pedal seems spongier than normal


    You still have air in the brakes,start at the master cylinder,then the rear,right wheel,left rear,and right front,then the left front.Make sure the calipers are releasing completely ,if they are not,then a brake hose could be bad.

    Feb 04, 2010 | 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee

    1 Answer

    Footbrake on r/h rear wheel on 1999 corolla not operating at enough pressure. changed brake shoes and wheel cylinder and bled out the system


    Is the wheel still able to be spun with it off the ground and the brake applied? If that's the case check all the other wheels. It's possible that one part of the master cylinder is bad and could cause both wheels on the same axle to not brake or diagonal wheels to not brake.

    Oct 04, 2009 | 1999 Toyota Corolla

    1 Answer

    Changed front pads now pedal is spongy,but stops fine


    Check for wheel cylinder leaks at rear wheels. Next master cylinder.

    Jun 11, 2009 | 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan

    1 Answer

    Spongie brakes


    Gravity bleeding doesnt usually work real well.

    Get a clear jar of some type, and a piece of 1/4 inch vacuum hose about 18 inches long. Put about 2 inches of new brake fluid in the container.

    Start at the passenger rear wheel, losen the bleeder, slide the hose tightly over the open bleeder, the other end in the jar where you can see the hose end.
    Fill master cylinder reservoir.

    Pump brake no more than 4 times, watching the hose end in the jar for bubbles. After 4 pumps, check reservoir, refill. Pump 4 more times. Watch for bubbles. Check reservoir, pump 4 more times. If you see bubbles at any time, then keep going through the above steps until you stop seeing bubbles.

    Go to rear wheel, tighten bleeder. Go to driver rear wheel, and do the same thing, although this time it won't take but 4-6 pumps to purge any air.

    Go to passenger front, repeat.
    Go to driver front, repeat.

    Do not recycle any of the fluid.

    Jan 28, 2009 | 1991 GMC C1500

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