Question about Cars & Trucks
If the brake booster fails, you will not have power assist and it will take a great deal of foot pressure to make the vehicle stop.
Posted on Apr 25, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It would be extraordinary for a technician to recommend a booster and a master cylinder with no previous mention from you of a possible problem in this area. In other words, the technician had no business looking at the m/cyl or the booster, unless you told him that your braking was deficient.
Here is what REALLY happened: Somewhere, I'd bet, your brake light came on, and somebody "topped off" the master cylinder, to shut the light off. Now, please understand that the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir DROPS PROPORTIONALLY to the wear of the brake pads. When the tech replaced the front brake pads, he obviously had to squeeze the caliper pistons into the housings to allow the insertion of the new pads. This action forced the brake fluid from the now-compressed caliper pistons BACK into the master cylinder, and it sprayed out from under the cap, coating the cylinder and the booster. Tell that repair service that you do NOT need a booster and a master cylinder, THEY caused the problem with the fluid being everywhere. I am confident that I just saved you a significent amount of money that you do NOT need to spend. Have a great day.
Posted on Dec 29, 2008
SOURCE: Need Break Booster Replaced
The brake booster/ naster cylinder is located on the firewall on the drivers side of the vehicle. The master cylinder has a resivour (sp) which has a cap and holds brake fluid. The brake booster is right behind that, the master cylinder is bolted right to the booster. The booster looks like a big circle about 10 to 12 inches round and usually 4 to 6 inches thick. It will have a vaccum hose coming off the booster and going to the intake manifold. The master cylinder with have hard lines coming off it which are brake lines. Hope this helps.
Posted on Mar 25, 2009
i would check front and rear brakes if rears are drum brakes i would inspect springs and hardware making sure everthing is conected and in place also make sure they are adjusted properly in the front and if rear disc i would make sure to grease caliper slides these allow caliper to move and its important that all moving brake parts are free push caliper pistons in alittle to see if they are sized or not booster is ok and most of the time when master goes it will leak where it meets booster and you will have a low brake pedal or no brakes
Posted on Mar 31, 2009
AWD disabled from a sensor unit in rear differential that senses high temp. This thing is over $300. Whine is from fluid. Need to change fluid. This versatrack fluid is about $40 per bottle and you need 3 bottles. Thumping noise is from loose rear knuckle bushings. These are part of the entire rear knuckle assy. and you must replace complete knuckle.
Posted on Jun 22, 2009
if it is analog, it is similar to the Grand Prix's. google 2002 Grand Prix odometer fix, you will find the solution there
Posted on Jun 30, 2010
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