Question about Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
put the back of car on jack stands and secure the front tires so it does not roll and then remove the bolts off the back of the caliper there is normally two one at top and one at bottom and spray it with some kind of oil for rust and make sure you have the right size socket before you try to loosen them and once caliper is off and the old pads removed take one of the old pads and squeeze the piston on the caliper back in by using a "C" clamp and also remove some of the brake fluid from the master cylinder before you do this put the new ones back on and check the brake fluid and make sure it is full and then pump the brakes to make sure you have a good pedal also put some "No Squeak" brake stop on the back of the pads so they don't squeak they will have that where you buy the pads from
Posted on Mar 01, 2009
Replace rear rotors on 04 liberty.
Remove tire & wheel
Remove brake caliper, tie up out of way.
Back off e-brake shoe adjustment.
Remove factory spring clip from lugs (2places)
This is the crude part....
After attempting to pull off disc/drum with puller....I got pretty sick of it. Understand this is in the Northeast with lots of salt on the roads in winter. Needless to say there is a ridge of rust around the inside edge of the e-brake surface. Any more pressure and I was afraid of damage to the e-brake shoe asembly. I then took a small grinder with a cut off wheel and cut the disc thru (used space where caliper usually sits). Also cut nearly through the face between 2 lugs. You can't quite get thru the back corner at the disc. Since the material is cast iron it will crack when you drive a wedge in the slot cut in the disc. This opens the housing around the shoes and it slides off easily. The cutting operation took less than10 mins, alot less than the puller with hammer assist!
I know this is a bit "unorthodox" to say the least, however the object is to remove the old junk disc safely and as quickly as possible, without harming the e-brake parts inside.
Install new parts in reverse order, new pads go in easy after squeezing the caliper piston back with a c clamp as is the normal procedure.
Posted on Mar 22, 2009
yeah they will say that and it may be your last choice but I know it is in the front of the engine and you need a long extension and ratchet handle and a claw type filter wrench to get it. Worth investing in if your going to do it all the time yourself. but prob not for one time.
Posted on Apr 06, 2009
Check your fuse thats a new vehicle so you might want to let the dealer look at it if its not a fuse. It should still have dealer warranty
Posted on Aug 15, 2009
I recommend that you temporarily install (or make it permanent if you wish) a mechanical pressure gauge. this will allow you to read the actual oil pressure, eliminating the possibility of a bad gauge or sender (yours is electro-mechanical.) If actual pressure still drops at that rpm I'd remove the pan and check the pump screen for obstructions.
Posted on Nov 07, 2009
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