Question about Porsche Cars & Trucks
1999 porsche bosxter
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If you have a socket you are willing to destroy, Find a socket that is as close to the size of the lug nut, but not bigger. Whack it on with a hammer, use a socket wrench (with enough leverage) to remove the lug. Locking nut: Find a socket that is about the same size as the lock nut, follow steps above. **This only works with the star shaped lock nuts and the ones that "key" goes into.
Posted on Mar 09, 2009
Ok, here's what I would do, and I've done a few ;-) First of all I have to ask, sorry; beg and plead with the previous owner to have another look, go to the dealer and see if they have a way of getting a code or a box in the shop full of random keys you can try (I have this at my shop), scour the car for every nook and cranny...everywhere, some people hide them.
If all of this fails, you need to go to Sears or any auto / tool store that sells sockets individually. Buy a handful of 1/2 inch drive 12 point sockets, you can return the ones you don't need. You want one that almost slides onto that keyed head of the wheel bolt, but won't. You will also need a BFH (big frickin hammer), a small sledge works well, a 6"-1/2" drive extension, a 1/2" johnson bar as well, not a ratchet handle, but a bar with a pivoting 1/2 stub on the end.
The first step, with the car on the ground, take the proper wheel wrench and TIGHTEN all the non-locking wheels bolts another 1/4 turn, or as much as you reasonbly can. The idea here is to take some of the tension off the one you are about to remove.
Now, put the socket that doesn't quite fit, on the 6" extension and put that on the johnson bar. Place this on the keyed socket as if you are going to remove it. Get a good position so that the johnson bar has some room to travel counter clockwise toward the ground. If possible, a good johnson bar will allow you to pivot it back toward the wheel, you want to keep the torque center-line inline with the wheel bolt if you know what I mean.
Now get a helper, one that has used a hammer before. Have him hold the 6" extension with one fist, and beat on the end of the johnson bar with the BFH, driving the extension and socket toward the wheel bolt. As he is striking it, you are supporting the bar and ever so slowly trying to undo the wheel bolt.
The combined effect of the over-tightened wheel bolts and the shock to the keyed bolt, while you drive the splines of the 12 point socket into the key's slots, will allow you to feel it release in increments as your helper hits the end of the johnson bar and extension.
I hope I explained this well enough, it has worked many times for me and after you have done the first one, the others go fairly well. I should probably make a youtube vid for fun.
Let me know how it works out.
Posted on Mar 29, 2009
the method which Ive done and is a Backbreaker is turn if off with vise grips , but Im strong . the general way is find what manufacturer made it and find out if they make a replacement key for it and buy one . An inter net search will usually result in wheel lock types.
Posted on Jul 11, 2009
Assuming the car battery is ok (if not, buy a male to male cigarette lighter at the auto store and connect to another car until charged enough to unlock the doors...but don't try to crank the ignition!). The trunks won't open if the battery went dead with the alarm set because arming the alarm physically locks the releases.
Sounds like the key code is switched off because you replaced the key fob battery. Try unlocking the car manual with the key in the door lock. Then switch the ignition on to reactive the keyless entry. If this does not work, you might also try pressing the fob unlock button with the key in the door lock until the dash led flashes.
Posted on Jul 09, 2010
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