Question about Cars & Trucks
Posted by Anonymous on
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
New users get to try the service completely Free afterwhich it costs $6 per call and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Blower Motor problem
Sorry but most that I can give would be generic as Pontiac Grand Prix are not that common in my country. I am assuming you are referring to the fan/blowers of the A/C unit.
Based on your description and from what little I know of the circuitry/wiring of current blowers:
1. the clicking sound would be a relay engaging and therefore the speed selector switch could be assumed to be operational since it can trigger the relay;
2. the day time running lights and auto night lights turning off when engaging the fan switch indicates possibly a common supply problem. This could be a wire or terminal in the fuse block. This common B+12 supply logically would be split into several including the fan blower fuse and the lights fuse. It is also possible that said terminal is corroded or has scorched marks preventing full flow of current or be disconnected intermittently;
3. since you have changed the resistor (presumably known and tested to be good) then the problem lies elsewhere possibly back to #2 above;
4. I would discount any ignition problem as it would be more engine related and has nothing to do with the fan/blower except that it share a common IGN B+12 which again points back to possibly #2; and
5. Though am not sure, but I think your car has also a blower motor control processor which also could be at fault.
I believe your best option would be to use a DVM to check for the presence of B+ supply to the fan motor while going through the switch settings (1 to 5). Thereafter trace back until you reach the resistor and its input of +12, go further back and trace it to the fuse holder and eventually to the common supply. You would have three (3) B+12, a) always ON; b) IGN ON; and blower switch ON.
Would appreciate a post back for any developments or results of your voltage checks.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Again, pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
Good luck and kind regards.
Thank you for using FixYa.
Posted on Jul 04, 2008
I had the same problem some time ago, lights would go on and off, odometer appeared to stop counting at times rpm gauge would work and then not... power steering would off and on work and head lights would blink on and off when in driving light mode (off position).. The fix for me was I had to have the dash computer replaced (about $500). After doing this around 50k miles ago all the gremlins seem to have remained gone.. Hope this helps
Posted on Jan 17, 2010
SOURCE: ignition switch to a 2001
no there is no lock position for the alero. if the key wont turn the key and or ignition cylinder may be worn out. try jiggling the key as you try to turn it. you may need to replace the ignition switch to repair this. when you do it will need to be programed to the vehicle. hope this helps
Posted on Jan 27, 2011
Tips for a great answer:
Aug 16, 2017 | Cars & Trucks
Dec 23, 2013 | 2006 Toyota Corolla Verso
Apr 11, 2013 | 1997 Nissan Maxima
Feb 28, 2013 | Cars & Trucks
Apr 27, 2011 | 1989 Toyota Camry
Dec 29, 2009 | 2004 Toyota Solara
Dec 16, 2009 | 2006 Chevrolet Cobalt
Oct 25, 2009 | 2009 Toyota Corolla
26 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!