Question about Cars & Trucks
What is coolant level,if is OK.Could be thermostat.Top house go back to engine should be thermostat.
Posted on Apr 25, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2000 isuzu Rodeo wont start
Could be your neutral safety switch, or it's not all the way in park. Broken or loose wires in the starting circuit. Inspect all wires and connectors at the battery, starter solenoid, and ignition switch. Or your starter pinion is jammed in the ring gear. Remove starter and inspect. Last but not least, your engine is seized. You don't want that one. Good luck.
Posted on May 22, 2009
umm...Where do I start? First thing you should have done is to replace the radiator cap. You could then self test the thermostat by placing it into a pot on the stove (Think its supposed to open @ about 195 degrees) If all hoses look good...Check the oil...any discoloration? Bubbles? Is the Oil higher than the 'Full' mark on the stick? This could be an indication of coolant in the crankcase, which frequently means blown head gasket. Oil ok? Check the radiator over flow...Any oil traces inside? you know...that infamous oil rainbow that developes when oil comes in contact with water? If you had a mechanic do all this stuff for you, I am shocked (and dismayed) that he didn't perform a hydrocarbon test on your radiator to see if emissions from the engine are present in your radiator...Over heating can be a great indicator of a cracked block or head...or of a compromised gasket. Its not always so obvious at first, but very obvious once its to late. The gentleman with the air bubble solution, sounds pretty brilliant to me.. This sounds like classic head gasket to me. Any white smoke coming from the tail pipe after warmed up? If so...and vehicle not worth new engine or head job..They have some pretty amazing liquid head gasket repair solutions out there. Lastly...The heater core...When you run the heat, are you smelling 'sweet' radiator odor? Is the defroster actually fogging up your windshield?, if this is the case...You can bypass the core by inserting a coupler between the supply and return hoses...This would stop the over heating...unfortunately it would stop all heating (Inside the vehicle) until it was replaced. Pull your spark plugs...are they fouled? Check cylinder compression...any cylinders low? All this could contribute to your vehicle overheating. Go back to Mechanic and have him pressure test radiator, work from there. All I can think of off hand...Hope this can help you.
Posted on Dec 18, 2009
with my experiance on these engines it's usually the upper outlet hoses running from the heads into a t then into the upper radiator hose they are pain to replace but 3 out of 3 of my v6 isuzu's have had the same problem you'll have to pull off the theromstat and the coil pack the hoses are very small and run from the end of the heads one on each into a t then into the radiator hose just under the housing
Posted on Dec 26, 2009
This has to do with the Auto's Computer system and should ONLY be done by a Factory Rep who knows what he/she are doing. not a home mechanic chore!!
Posted on Jul 16, 2010
It's located just under the driver side door, and then behind the outermost frame bar. The new one will denote which direction to install it. I recommend grabbing some rubber sheathed hose clamps from the store while you're there.
First locate the bleeder valve on the fuel rail.
It's just underneath the plastic cover on the engine, follow the silver rail that runs across the front and goes back on both sides, it's on the right side, just under the left-side blue refrigerant valve cover. Open the cover (black) and be sure to have a rag under and on top of it as you use a screwdriver to release the pressure on it - just push the pin in the valve. Air will come out, then a little gas, so be ready. Replace the cover.
Open your gas cap. Now the pressure is off of both sides.
Use the clamps to close the lines going into it, in and out. Clamp them about 3 or 4 inches from the filter, to leave yourself room to work.
Remove the bolt on the mounting bracket, it will take a socket to get it, as salt and other road juices will have rusted it pretty well since the last time it was changed. Please don't try to use an adjustable wrench, unless you really want to punch the underside of your car.
Factory hose clamps, self explanatory. Vice grips are good for this.
Use the vice grips to gently wrench the hose from the filter. This will take some work, it's on there very tight from the existing pressure in the lines. just don't clamp them so tight that it might tear them. Just hand tight and wiggle back and forth.
When it comes off, gas is going to spill out, be ready. Quickly replace the filter and replace the factory hose clamps, remove yours, and remount it in the bracket.
Close your gas cap!
Start your car a few times to get the pressure back in the lines, and you're all set.
Posted on Aug 15, 2010
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