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You may need a shop manual to get the wiring diagrams and test procedures.
The ac compressor gets power from several sources and those would need to be checked. The control on the dash, the low and high pressure switches, the relay, and so on.
If the compressor is ok, you should be able to jumper the clutch like you did and feel one line cold and the other line warm if freon is flowing thru the system.
there are 3 switches that control the operation of the ac compressor . There is a high pressure switch that will not allow operation if the head pressure goes too high ( excessive gas-blocked system-tx valve condenser fan not working )There is a low pressure switch that stops the compressor when the gas has leaked out and is insufficient A thermostat that will not register and so will not switch on the compressor and finally ac compressors will not work unless both the ac switch and the blower are switched on. Have the system checked out by an accredited ac specialists.;l
the compressor is protected by a pressure switch to prevent from damage of the compressor when ever the prion gas is leaking there no pressure on the system so the compressor will not engage check for the linking of the system
the ac clutch relay is the problem. It is located in the under hood fuse box. It is a $10 part. The relay will make a clicking sound when activated but the contacts inside are burnt causing no electrical flow to the ac compressor. Simply unplug and replace. The relay is labeled M/G CLT .
replace or blow out the cabin air filter as well. It is located behind the glove box. Instructions are in your owners manual.
The compressor on the air conditioner in my 2000 GMC Yukon XL went out last summer. Had it and the whole line replaced at a local air conditioning shop last fall. Used it little before cold weather. Warm weather this spring and no cold air. We could hear the compressor trying to kick in. The shop told us that the control console was bad and had to be replaced. They told us the part was on back order and did not know if they would be abel to get one any time soon. We took the Yukon into the local GM dealership. They told us that the high side fitting was bad and that the freon was very low and that they would have to deal with that first to check the system. Called back to the air conditioning shop and they said they had a console come in and they would put it in and check the high side fitting. I now have cold air and questions. Bought Yukon in 2005 used, had always had problem of not switching to cold air once the heater has been used. We were told changing the console should fix that. It has not changed. I feel like the console angle was a scam, that the system was just low on freon. Each shop was blaming the other for trying to scam me. And what can fix the heat to cold issue? If anyone has answers I would sure appreciate the knowledge.
OK, the requirement of Freon is 2 cans...as for the Cold/Hot problem, a little info first; the PCM controls the AC clutch (adjusts the IAC, Idle Air Control valve to speed up the idle when turning on the AC unit, and slows down the idle after turning off the AC unit), also the PCM controls the relay that cycles the AC clutch. My experience has been that the relay is "going South". This bad boy is in the fuse block in the engine compartment by the Air Filter box. The relay is an inexpensive item, and if you live where the AC unit is used frequently, I would recommend it being replaced every 3-5 years. Be sure to check with the mechanic to make sure he properly recharged the system, and if so, try these ideas.
If it blew cold air after freon added and 5 days later blew warm, you may have a leak in the system. Also check and see if compressor comes on if not you may have an electrical issue, relay for compressor,coil on compressor, etc.......
You were not clear, but I assume the compressor runs OK. If not, troubleshoot the electrical to the compressor. Did you replace the orifice tube while it was discharged for service? If not, then check the pressures. If low side pressure is high the tube might be plugged, especially if you truly had a bad compressor. In a properly working system the line should be cold on the evaporator side of the orifice tube when properly charged. If compressor runs, system properly charged and that line is warm then suspect a plugged tube.