How do i deactivate kill switch - 1993 Mercury Cougar

Did you try a new bulb ? Not a fuse ,
Interior Lamp Control
The BCM controls the function of the courtesy lamps. The IP fuse block BCM fuse supplies battery positive voltage (B+) at all times to the BCM inadvertent power output. Battery positive voltage (B+) is supplied to the courtesy lamps as described above. The BCM provides a ground path to the courtesy lamps from the theatre dim-1 and the theatre dim-2 outputs. The BCM activates the outputs when a door is opened or the courtesy lamp switch activates. The outputs are deactivated when the BCM detects that all of the doors are closed and the courtesy lamp switches are inactive. If the outputs are deactivated because of a door closing, the outputs are deactivated with the theatre dimming function. The theatre dimming function causes the lamps to fade out gradually over a period of 3 seconds. If the outputs are deactivated by a courtesy lamp switch, the outputs are deactivated immediately without the theatre dimming function.

Yes it is possible to do yourself but if it is linked to ecu you will need to get it plugged in

• 3 flashes - deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.
• • Flash code 3 - deactivator switch circuit failure
  • Central junction box (CJB) fuse 13 (20A).
  • Circuitry.
  • Deactivator switch.
  • Speed control servo.
  • Go To Pinpoint Test H .
  PINPOINT TEST H: FLASH CODE 3 - DEACTIVATOR SWITCH CIRCUIT FAILURE
• CONDITIONS DETAILS/RESULTS/ACTIONS H1 CHECK THE DEACTIVATOR SWITCH CIRCUITRY
  Speed Control Servo C122
  Measure the voltage between the speed control servo C122 pin 9, circuit 307 (BK/YE), harness side and the speed control servo C122 pin 10, circuit 57 (BK), harness side.
  
  • Is the voltage greater than 10 volts?
  Yes INSTALL a new speed control servo. REFER to Speed Control Servo in this section. REPEAT the self-test.
  
  No GO to H2 . H2 CHECK DEACTIVATOR SWITCH POWER
  Deactivator Switch C1025
  Measure the voltage between the deactivator switch C1025, circuit 10 (LG/RD), harness side and ground.
  
  • Is the voltage greater than 10 volts?
  Yes GO to H3 .
  
  No REPAIR the circuit. REPEAT the self-test. H3 CHECK CIRCUIT 307 (BK/YE) FOR AN OPEN Measure the resistance between the speed control servo C122 pin 9, circuit 307 (BK/YE), harness side and the deactivator switch C1025, circuit 307 (BK/YE), harness side.
  
  • Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?
  Yes INSTALL a new deactivator switch. REFER to Speed Control Deactivator Switch in this section. REPEAT the self-test.
  
  No REPAIR the circuit. REPEAT the self-test.

The 'Keyless Entry & Burglar Alarm System" is activated. You must 'Disarm' the system using the Keyless Entry Remove (Key Fob) to "Reset" the system. The reason the engine won't start is due to the burglar alarm - it has a "Starter Kill" circuit which is activated when the alarm is activated. The alarm must be DEactivated to DEactivate the 'Starter Kill' circuit.
Another way to start the engine is to get in the car, put the key in the ignition and turn it to 'ON" and wait 3 to 5 minutes until the emergency flashers stop/turn off. Afterward, you should be able to start the engine. NOTE: This does NOT reset the burglar alarm. It will go off again when you enter the vehicle without using the remote/key fob.

try disconnecting the battery this should reset the system

There is not a fuse for the CC itself, only the brake light fuse and the speed control deactivation switch ( on the top of the brake pedal lever ).

The deactivation switch is from fuse # 14, 10A.

Did you change the Stop / Turn bulbs to LEDs without the load resistors ? Usually the CHMSL ( Center High Mount Stop Lamp ) as a standard bulb is enough to keep the CC working, when doing LED Stop / turn bulbs.

The deactivation switch has the switch in the closed position to the PCM, when the brake is off.
Could also be this switch if the fuse tests good with a meter.

Check for power on both sides of the deactivation switch

Fuse #14 - Light Blue w/ Pinks stripe wire - deactivation switch - black w/ yellow stripe wire - PCM.

? Who said it wasn't? The alarm installers? That I wouldn't doubt. It sounds like the starter kill switch is causing the problem and that is part of the alarm. Locate the alarm then on the alarm locate the power wire, this is most likely mounted on the firewall. The mail power wire to the alarm should have a fuse on it between the power source and the alarm itself that you can remove. Removing that fuse will deactivate the kill switch. Never trust the Alarm installers answer since they make money by not having to repair their work it is always going to be something else causing the problem according to them. Especially if they think it may end up being a warranty issue.

Not unless yo had one installed with an alarm however, there is a neutral safety switch which will stop the engine from cranking if it either isn't connected, faults, or you try and Crank the vehicle without pressing the clutch in first. It's designed to keep you from cranking the motor while it is in gear. If you have an alarm installed and the engine will not crank or initially starts and then dies shortly after, try removing the in line fuse from the alarm power wire to deactivate the anti theft device that may have been installed in the ignition circuit.

an old trick!!sum older jeeps lock and unlock the door with the key both sides ! that use to deactivate a built in alarm

The sensor for the auto light switching is in the top of the dashboard on the drivers side. You can see the little slits for the opening through the windshield. Disconnecting it may deactivate it so that the headlight swith will be in control. In the meantime, simply quickly turning your parklights on and off after removing the key will kill the lights immediately, rather than the minute or so extra time.