Question about 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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Vacuum leak on the left side of the plenum on the 5.2, there are three vacuum ports. one goes to the brake booster. one goes to the EGR valve control. where does the third one go? I capped it after finding a fitting broke (which I could not tell if it was an elbow or a cap). It ran worse.

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  • Jeep Master
  • 17,970 Answers

According with the 5.2L V8 Engine Service Manual, you need to check this diagram...
vacuum leak - 3d3b8a20-1092-4619-a154-7aae41ea5210.gif
Zoom image link HERE

Hope this helps.

Posted on Apr 30, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: I have a 94 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo that stalls

Are you able to pull a trouble code from this vehicle by cycling the key on-off-on-off, then leasve it on and count the flashes given by the engine light in the dash???

Posted on Jan 17, 2010

  • 172 Answers

SOURCE: engine light on.engine read out

Well, it is most likely a vacuum leak *somewhere*. Open the hood, look around carefully for any cracked, broken, or disconnected vacuum lines (these are usually about 1/4 inch in diameter, black rubber hoses, sometimes 1/8 inch diameter rigid black plastic tubing). Often one or more goes to the firewall to control the a/c dampers, make sure that the air comes out of the defrost vents, the dash vents, and the floor vents according to the knob settings, if not, look for the engine to dash hose.

Posted on Sep 01, 2010

  • 557 Answers

SOURCE: Hi, My 96 jeep cherokee

You have a vacuum line off somewhere, or the egr valve is leaking at idol, or you have manifold vacuum hooked up to the egr valve, make sure the vacuum line going to the egr valve has no vacuum at idol, only during acceleration.

Posted on Oct 19, 2010

  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: Knocking noise. Overheated engine, warped heads,

overhaul

Posted on Oct 20, 2010

  • 2309 Answers

SOURCE: I think my 99 grand cherokee power brake booster

replace it , may as well do it before it quits altogether

Posted on Nov 05, 2010

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2004 Nissan frontier. Bypass hose replaced by a mechanic that had to remove the intake plenum. Now the check engine light is on. EGR is not getting vacuum. Brake booster looses vacuum when off.


It sounds like a vacuum leak either at the intake plenum or intake manifold, or egr valve.You might check all the vacuum lines to be sure they are all connected. But if it was not doing that before the mechanic worked on it I would take it back to him and say fix it. The check engine light is on because there is a vacuum leak and it's causing the egr valve and booster to not function properly.

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I have ran in to this before as an engine performance and emmission technician.
Sounds like the problem is in the brake booster area is leaking vacuum (air) in to the engine causing a major missfire due to a lean condition. The best way to check this with the engine off and cool so you dont burn your hands. Remove the big vacum hose that goes up to the brake booster and plug the vacum port to the engine. Make sure you get a good seal on the plug and no air is sucking down when engine is running. After that start the engine and make sure it is running smoothly, apply the brakes and see if the engine remains running smoothly. 99.999% of the times the issie is with booster tht when you apply the brakes you allowing vacuum to leak in to engine.
Replace booster and hose with new, do not go to junk yard . By tge way the brake pedal will be stiff because it needs vacuum to make smooth so dont alarm your sekf while testing it.
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2002 dodge durango dies when i turn corner and stop lights


Sounds like the idle speed controls are not working, the Vacuum system is losing pressure when you use the Brake booster or the EGR valve is not closing completely.

At first, upon reading your problem I noticed the turning and stopping can cause the fuel to slush in the tank, but once settled it should be mixed and available for the fuelpump, eliminating fuel starvation or contamination as the problem.

But when you are in a corner turn or braking at a light you can have your foot on the brake pedal with an automatic transmission. This can vent the Vacuum out of your motor if the Brake Booster is bad or if there is a Vacuum leak in the intake or Vacuum lines or solenoids you are overtaxing the system when applying the Brake booster.

So there are simple Vacuum gauges which can be attached to the engine to measure the Vacuum available. One tool may be available in the free tool loaner programs the autoparts stores have.

A bad EGR valve can have a broken diaphram leaking Vacuum. A dirty EGR can disrupt vacuum in the intake if the valve does not close tightly causing a problem at idle.

As I mentioned, the idle speed controls are suppose to give a minimum base idle speed. The onboard computer in your vehicle adjusts the timing and fuelmix to provide that. A throttle position sensor sends a signal to make the other parts work. This part can be checked with an Ohmmeter by unplugging the power connector and measuring the resistence as the throttle is opened and closed. It should smoothly increase resistence.

I am curious about the outcome of this problem and hope my solution is the best one for you.

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Where is the brake booster vacuum line on the 89 toyota camry?


Booster line will attach to back side (firewall side ) of booster chamber.

Should find a metal elbow coming out of the booster chamber that the vacuum line will slip over.

When you look at the booster chamber from the front, the location of the line should be at approx. 9 o'clock (as if looking at a clock dial)

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Where would i install a vacuum gauge on a 1994 3.4l v6? The fitting at the back of the motor is about impossible to get your hand in between the plenum and intake.


REMOVE POWER BRAKE BOOSTER HOSE ON THE INTAKE.BUY A SMALL PIECE OF THE SAME HOSE TO POWER BRAKE BOOSTER.PUT IN ON POWER BRAKE BOOSTER VACUUM PORT AND BUY A REDUCER SO YOUR VACUUM GAUGE HOSE WILL FIT.THEN CRANK CAR UP CHECK ENGINE VACUUM.

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My guess is a vacuum leak. When you brake, additional vacuum is needed to run the brake booster, causing a stall. I had this problem, and the vacuum leak was someplace else, not in the booster, though it could be there too. Check all the rubber vacuum connectors, the PCV and EGR valves and air intake mounting.

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Car starts but only runs about 5 seconds


scan it.to see if the camsensor or crank sensor also egr valve.working.make sure egr valve not stuck open.if all is good.your fuel pressure low.change fuel filter check fuel pressure.if fuel pressure good.you got a intake manifold leak or broke vacuum line .check power brake booster vacuum line.if look good remove brake booster check valve.blow through it.if you can replace it.if not its okay.a bad or dead fuel fuel injectors will cause engine to stall out.

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I have a 1994 Town Car EVTM, Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual. I no longer need it and will sell for $10 including shipping. Let me know.

As for the hoses:

  • a black hose goes from the intake to a vacuum manifold with eight ports.
  • the next 2 ports go to the PCV through a "T"
  • the next port goes to the check valve for the a/c system. The check valve has two ports coming out. One for the reservoir and one to the heater control panel.
  • the next port goes to the automatic park brake release switch (I think on the steering cloumn base.)
  • the next port on the vacuum manifold has a red plastic hose going to the EVR, EGR Vacuum Regulator. A green hose comes out of the EVR and goes to the EGR Valve.
  • the next port has another red hose that goes to the FPRC (fuel pressure regulator on fuel rail?)
  • the last port goes to a check valve and then on to the brake booster.

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1 Answer

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Have u checked for vacuum leaks or poss leaking EGR valve? use carb spray around the upper intake manifold where it bolts to the lower manifold, spray vacuum lines where they are connected to the engine vacuum ports, the idle speed will change if u hit a leak, as far as the EGR valve goes see if it gets hot at idle, if it does it is leaking, if all checks ok replace the O2 sensor, but i suspect u will find a leak at the upper intake plenum.

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^ Turbo Cars have Lots of Vaccum, Where did you ever get this idea from. I have personally converted 10+ Turbo Buicks to Vac brakes.

Make sure the check valve is okay at the booster. but it does sound like you have a bad booster.
Also, did you change the brake pedal to a Vac brake pedal?
They are not interchangeable.

Also, you should not have drilled the plenum, you can get a vaccum block to replace the plastic one on the top of the plenum with a vac brake port.

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