Question about Cars & Trucks
That means that the fuell mix ignite before the spark comes from the plug.it gets two ignitions ,you see this many times in formula,
race cars,then you see huge flames comes out.if it happens onle one time.its 99 percent ok.but if it happens regular,you need to reset the (before igniotion ) correct.
Posted on Jul 07, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
it sounds like one of the mounting bolts-pins came loose or was not fully tightened.
the grinding noise could have been on the wheel or rotor depending on what came loose. probably the bang means its missing altogether now, DANGEROUS! do not drive.
have a tow truck bring it back and be there to look when they inspect it....
Posted on Jan 28, 2009
it is probally the hose from the turbo outlet that has split,they are dead common.remove the undertray and look and feel the pipe that drops down from the turbo and goes to the connecting pipe that runs along the front of the car.
Posted on Feb 20, 2009
Sounds to me like a very common problem has occured to your neighbor. If this is a SOHC engine, one of the valve seats in the number 4 cylinder has fallen out. I'm sure it has damaged the head and the piston. Stop trying to run it or you might blow a hole in the cylinder wall or break a rod or both.
Posted on Aug 07, 2009
You will want to find out if you are not getting spark or not getting fuel.
If no fuel, then bad fuel pump, plugged fuel filter, or bad fuel pressure regulator, or bad fuel pump relay.
If no spark, then bad crank sensor, or ignition module, or coil packs.
Posted on Oct 14, 2009
Hello, there are several things as likely to cause this problem, either spark or fuel.
The glowplugs are needed to make a Cold engine start. You can take a testlight to the glowplug wire of several cylinders and it should light when the engine is put to the Run position. The glowplugs get their power from a Coldstart Timer and it may have an additional relay.
The Coldstart Timer is the part which clicks and makes the lights dim when it is cycling. It also controls the dash indicator and makes the dash light work when the glowplugs are ready. The timer changes the amount of time it cycles according to outside and engine temperature. If you have noticed the "Ready" light vary its timing, the timer is working.
Say you have no spark at the glowplug wire, work backwards to the Coldstart timer and see if it is getting power. Power in, none out, bad timer. No power in, work backwards for a Relay or fuse.
Now if you have power at the glowplug, remove several and test them with Battery jumper cables. Put the NEG on the base and touch the POS to the stem. You can melt them if you overdo it. The longer it takes for the glowplug to glow, the worse it is. Once you find a good glower all tests are relative to the good one.
Fuel problem. If the glowplugs test out, check the fuel. Long start times can mean the fuel drained back to the tank and has to be pulled all the way up front. You can unscrew your fuel filter and see if it is topped off or empty. Then you need to test the lines from the fuel filter back.
It is also possible an internal Solenoid in the Injector pump is sticking. A light tap before starting can indicate this problem if it starts better after tapping the pump.
Thats about it. I hope you find my Solution useful.
Posted on Dec 02, 2010
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