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Starter relay ground

Starter, after turning the ignition switch, spins, but do not snap to motor.Have no idea where,or if is some "starter motor relay"...

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  • Alfa Romeo Master
  • 21,873 Answers

Usually if the starter spins but does not engage the flywheel, the problem is the flywheel or the bendix drive in the starter. The starter gear is supposed to extend to meet the flywheel when the starter spins.

Posted on Apr 24, 2013

Testimonial: "Thanks. But I had already starter motor out of car,everything is working. I checked wires and the same.. I changed battery (about low voltage),fuses are ok too ,still the same. So problem must be with some relay.. And diagnostic snow my nothing !!! "

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ajkill
  • 2035 Answers

SOURCE: cannot get starter to turn engine over with ignition switch,pulled relay out and ran a hot wire to starter side of relay and starter engaged.

Then check the key switch may be defective or the fuse might have blow out...............

Posted on May 30, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: H2 Hummer

Today 11-12-08 my 2003 H2 Hummer would not start. Checked battery it ischarged. Cables tight. Tried to start with portable booster pak. No go. Tridto jump start with my wife's Suburban. Still no go.
When I turn the switch I hear a single click and that is it. No engine turning over. While trying to start with key the headlights go out. Out of ideas, Will take to Chevy garage in am. Will post solution.

Posted on Nov 13, 2008

skotkolr
  • 558 Answers

SOURCE: Starter relays does not operate. Cannot turn starter

Clutch pedal rely switch, like brake light switches can go bad.
Have a great weekend.

Posted on Apr 17, 2009

  • 82 Answers

SOURCE: 20 amp ignition fuse keeps blowing

I'm curious, does this vehicle have an alarm/remote starter? If so I expect the installer didn't wire it correctly ... it was an all too frequent issue, with inexperienced installers we had .... I would first suspect any add-on device first (if any) ... In answer to your question ... I know it does have a relay (Starter solenoid is a relay and built onto the starter) As far as it being a relay or the IGN switch ... I'm skeptical.

Posted on May 05, 2009

jigsaw_9077
  • 308 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 ford focus no power to starter moter i can

The mechanic should check on the wires and fuse going to the starter motor and the spare parts . since when you test the starter motor and seems no problem to it ,it means that the problem is in the other spare parts connected to the starter motor .check the alternator if it is good and functioning well. The solenoid you also have to check it to be sure because it is very much connected to the starter motor .those spare parts that are worn out or destroyed , you should replace them .

Posted on Aug 28, 2009

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?Had a new starter and new battery put on my 1999 Chevy Tahoe.. we by it starts sometimes and sometime it don't..what could the problem be


I'm assuming just by the fact you had a new battery and new starter that sometimes when you turn the key to the start position , nothing happens . Is your vehicle a automatic transmission ? When it doesn't start have checked for battery voltage at the starter solenoid S terminal ? Is there B+ voltage at pins 30 & 86 for the starter relay ? Pin 86 while cranking the engine or trying to crank the engine over . Pin 30 check with key on . Try moving gear selector to neutral . Videos on youtube for basic automotive electrical testing . How to voltage drop test starter motor circuit Find a wiring diagram at www.bbbind.com
Starting System Circuit Description
Voltage is applied at all times to the ignition switch from the IGN A fuse 6 through CKT 242 (RED). When the ignition switch is turned to the START position, voltage is applied to the CRANK fuse 8 through CKT 5 (YEL). From the CRANK fuse 8, voltage is either applied to the clutch pedal position switch (M/T) or the transmission range switch (A/T) through CKT 806 (PPL). When either the clutch is disengaged (M/T) or the transmission is in park or neutral (A/T), voltage is applied to the coil of the starter relay through CKT 1035 (PPL/WHT). Since the starter relay is permanently grounded at ground G105 through CKT 150 (BLK), the starter relay energizes.
Voltage is applied at all times to the starter relay contacts from IGN A fuse 6 through CKT 242 (RED). When the starter relay energizes, the starter relay contacts close, and voltage is applied to the starter motor solenoid. Since the starter motor solenoid is permanently case grounded, the starter motor solenoid will energize two coils. The pull-in winding coil energizes in order to pull the starter motor solenoid contacts closed. When the contacts close, a plunger on the contacts causes the pull-in winding coil circuit to open. The hold-in winding coil then holds the starter motor solenoid contacts closed. Voltage is then applied to the starter motor from the battery through CKT 1 (BLK) and the closed contacts of the starter motor solenoid. Since the starter motor is also permanently case grounded, the starter motor will run until the ignition switch is moved out of the START position. When this happens, a spring in the starter motor solenoid moves the starter motor solenoid contacts and the plunger back to the rest position.

Jan 07, 2017 | 1999 Chevrolet Tahoe

Tip

Trouble-shooting your Isuzu starter..


Basic operation of a starter:
Your engine's starter motor is an electrical motor that is used to rotate the engine in order to get it to fire up. This motor draws a large amont of current from the battery (in the order of 70 Amps and up). In order to supply power to the starter a solenoid is used, it acts as a switch between the battery and the starter motor. This solenoid also engages the starter gear with the engine's flywheel and disengages it once the engine is started. Because the circuit for the solenoid also draws a heavy current a further relay is needed to control it.
The diagram below shows the electrical layout of the starting system.
  • i : Battery
  • ii : Starter relay(located in the relay box in the engine compartment)
  • iii : Starter solenoid
  • iv : Starter incorporating solenoid and motor.
  • v : Engine
  • vi : Battery earth cable
  • vii : Engine earth cable
  • viii : Ignition fuse
  • ix : Starter fuse
  • x : Solenoid to starter supply cable
  • xi : Ignition switch
  • xii : Starter motor
When the ignition(xi) is turned it supplies power from the battery through fuse (viii) to the starter relay(ii).
The starter relay activates and supplies power to the starter solenoid(iii) via fuse (ix)
The starter solenoid activates and connects power from the battery to the starter via a short cable(x) between the solenoid and starter motor. This allows the starter motor to turn.

General trouble shooting.
Turn the ignition off.
1/ First you need to check that the fuses are intact.
Keep the ignition off. Place the vehicle in Neutral. Chock the wheels and engage the parking brake.
2/ To prove the starter motor, connect power from the battery positive to the cable (x). This must be done with jumper cables. Touch the jumper cable to the connector on the back of the solenoid where cable (x) connects. Take care not to short circuit the jumper cable to the engine or vehicle body. It can be a tight fit and might not always be possible. If you hear the starter motor spin then it is working along with the engine earth cable. If not, connect the negative lead of the jumper cable between the battery and the starter motor body or any other bare piece of metal on the engine and put the positive lead on cable (x) again. If the starter motor does not spin it needs to come out for repair/replacement. If it spins check both the battery earth cable and engine earth cable and repair where nescasary.
3/ Once the starter motor has been proved move on to the solenoid. Remove the thin wire from the solenoid. Using a small piece of wire, connect battery positive to the connector where you just took off the wire. The solenoid should kick in and the starter motor will turn the engine. If the solenoid does not kick in, remove the starter for repair/replacement of the solenoid. If the solenoid kicks in then replace the starter relay.

If the starting circuit still does not operate the fault will be in the wiring. This needs reasonable expertise and if you dont have a voltmeter handy is not advised.
Bear in mind on automatic transmission vehicles there is an additional switch (Mode switch) wired in between the ignition switch and the starter relay. This switch is on the transmission itself and if faulty will not allow the starter to operate even if steps 1 to 3 were successfull. The same goes for the anti theft/immobiliser system.

fd042ff.jpg
The following is specifically for Isuzu Trooper and Rodeo :
  • i : Battery
  • ii : Starter relay(located in the relay fuse box in the engine compartment designated X-17)
  • iii : Starter solenoid
  • iv : Starter incorporating solenoid and motor.
  • v : Engine
  • vi : Battery earth cable
  • vii : Engine earth cable
  • viii : 10A Starter fuse C-1(Fuse box: LH footwell on LHD vehicle, RH dash on RHD vehicle)
  • x : Solenoid to starter supply cable
  • xi : Ignition switch
  • xii : Starter motor
  • xiii : 80A Main fusible link FL-1(Relay fuse box)
  • xiv : 50 A Key SW fusible link FL-2(relay fuse box)
  • xv : Mode switch(A/T only - mounted on the side of the transmission) and for 6 cylinder manual transmission engines this is the clutch start switch mounted on the clutch pedal.
  • xvi : Anti theft system
  • B2 : B2 on ignition sitch
  • ST : ST on ignition switch
db79612.jpg


How to wire a relay

on Sep 17, 2010 | Isuzu Trooper Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Lots of power, dash lights up but no ignition power to starter, relay changed, neutral start switch changed, fuses good.


Well, looking at the schematic, there is the IGN A (Fuse 6) in the under-hood fuse block feeding power to both the ignition switch and to the NO contact of the starter relay. Turning the ignition switch to the START position sends this voltage thru the CRANK (Fuse 8) in the instrument panel fuse block and thru the PARK/NEUTRAL position switch, thru the starter relay coil to ground. This should activate the Starter relay and pass voltage to the starter solenoid to ground, activating it. One the starter solenoid activates, batter power is sent to the starter motor, activating it. If, as you say, the fuses are good, the starter relay was replaced and is good, and the Park/Neutral position switch was replaced and is good, then then only items left are the ignition switch itself, the starter solenoid/motor, or the wiring of the circuit.

Mar 12, 2015 | 2000 GMC Yukon XL

1 Answer

1999 GMC Sonoma 2.2L will not start.


What is wrong????????? That would be a guess on anyones part here ! Testing the electrical circuits involved would be the proper way to diagnose this no start problem ! Using a volt meter an wiring diagram to check voltage at different point's in the starter circuit . voltage drop testing ! Plus knowing how the starter system works !
Starter Circuit Operation
Voltage is applied at all times to the ignition switch from the IGN A fuse through CKT 42 (RED). When the ignition switch is turned to the START position, voltage is applied to the CRANK fuse through CKT 5 (YEL). From the CRANK fuse , voltage is either applied to the clutch pedal position switch (M/T) or the park/neutral position switch (A/T) through CKT 806 (PPL). When either the clutch is disengaged (M/T) or the transmission is in park or neutral (A/T), voltage is applied to the coil of the starter relay through CKT 1035 (PPL/WHT). Since the starter relay is permanently grounded at ground G102 through CKT 150 (BLK), the starter relay energizes.
Voltage is applied at all times to the starter relay contacts from IGN A fuse through CKT 42 (RED). When the starter relay energizes, the starter relay contacts close, and voltage is applied to the starter motor solenoid. Since the starter motor solenoid is permanently case grounded, the starter motor solenoid will energize two coils. The pull-in winding coil energizes in order to pull the starter motor solenoid contacts closed. When the contacts close, a plunger on the contacts causes the pull-in winding coil circuit to open. The hold-in winding coil then holds the starter motor solenoid contacts closed. Voltage is then applied to the starter motor from the battery through CKT 1 (RED) and the closed contacts of the starter motor solenoid. Since the starter motor is also permanently case grounded, the starter motor will run until the ignition switch is moved out of the START position. When this happens, a spring in the starter motor solenoid moves the starter motor solenoid contacts and the plunger back to the rest position.


Starter Voltage Drop

How to voltage drop test starter motor circuit

Jun 23, 2017 | 1999 GMC Sonoma

1 Answer

Seat ibiza start


yes it could be just a wiring, fuse or relay problem. Most common is the starter relay in the fuse box, or a bad ground somewhere. If the relays, wires, grounds are all good, might just be the starer solenoid that is faulty, or the starter motor itself. In both cases nowadays, you will need to remove the starter to test either the solenoid or motor. Also might be a good idea to check if voltage gets the the relay in the fuse box when you turn the key, as contacts in ignition switch can be faulty. Just remove starter relay in fuse block and check the right pins with a voltmeter while a friend turns the key in the ignition. Hope this helps :)

Dec 31, 2013 | 1996 Volkswagen GTI

1 Answer

I have a 2003 Saturan Ion that won't start


Hi, this is what you should do when your car won't start. Diagnosing a no-start condition requires a logical approach to figuring out what might be preventing your car from starting. First, if the engine won't even crank over when you turn the ignition to START, your car obviously won't start.
When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

If the engine fails to crank, there is a fault in one of the components in the battery/ignition/starter circuit. Check it out.....
  • Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
  • Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
  • Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
  • Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
  • Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
  • Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
  • Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
  • Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
  • Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
  • Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Dec 02, 2010 | 2003 Saturn ION

1 Answer

Changed starter...new battery....lights and radio work nothing happens when turn the key.


Starter Fuse? Possible failed ignition switch. Loose Cables on battery or starter. Starter not grounding properly. Bad starter Relay? Use Voltmeter check voltage going to main starter wire while someone cranks the motor if not power check power to starter relay while cranking if no power suspect ignition switch.

Sep 06, 2010 | 2001 Chevrolet Venture

1 Answer

I have a 1997 grand prix. Most days it starts. once in a while it will not start. You can sometimes rock key back and forth quickly and it will catch. But most of the time odly enough wait over night and...


When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Jul 14, 2010 | 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix

1 Answer

My car does not start or turn over. The radio works and so does the fan.


When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Jul 14, 2010 | 1995 Suzuki Sidekick

2 Answers

Engine will not turn over. lights, horn, everything else works, no clicks, no nothing, but it will not turn over.


You're describing a no rotation issue and not a no start issue correct? If you dont hear/feel the starter relay clicking, it eliminates everything in the circuit to that point meaning the ignition switch, Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) (you don't have a neutral start switch unless you have a rare manual transmission), ground input from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to the starter relay coil, and starter relay are good. Based on what you've said that leaves the primary battery cable from the battery to the starter, and the wire from the starter relay to the starter solenoid contact on the starter. Have you checked their continuity? One more voltage to check at contact 30 (input volts from battery to starter relay contacts) on the starter relay socket. Should see 12vdc all the time.

You should check the battery. The true test is a load test. Does jumping the battery using jumper cables make any difference? If it starts, change the battery. I take it to check the starter you jumpered the solenoid contact on the starter to the battery correct? Have you tried wiggling the battery cables as you turn the key? They can corrode and fail internally. Are the engine and chassy ground connections clean and tight?

Jul 14, 2010 | 2004 Dodge Caravan

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