Question about Mazda B-Series Truck
How to fit wheel bearings
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Rear wheel bearing diagram
The bearing is pressed in so you will have to carry the hub to a machine shop to have the old bearing pressed out and the new bearing pressed in once you have the hub off the car.
Process to remove hub is as follows (from the 1990 Miata Service manual)
Remove rear wheel, rear wheel brake caliper assembly (suspend with a rope), and disc plate.
Check for rear hub play with a dial indicator, if excessive play either tighten the locknut or remove hub and replace bearing.
To remove bearing bend up the locknut stake and remove axle nut - torque is between 159 - 217 ft pounds.
Now remove the hub, retaining ring, rear wheel knuckle, wheel bearing (if loose), dust cover.
Replace with new parts, locknut, dust cover, knuckle bushings and hub bolts (if worn).
Take knuckle with wheel bearing to machine shop and have old bearing pressed out and new bearing pressed in.
Assembly is reverse of the above.
I have personally found that by the time I pay a machine shop to do the removal and reinstall of the bearing and take my time into account it is less expensive to pay a good shop to do this work for me.
DIY information at Miata.net
Posted on May 10, 2009
SOURCE: Front Wheel bearing removal
If it is a hub assembly you dont remove the bearing, its replaced as one piece. If the parts store sold you just the bearing you WILL NEED a press. There is no trick, you will only ruine the hub and bearing.
Posted on Feb 08, 2009
Take off the wheel, then the brake caliper, noow you have the roter. in the center is a cap, the center cap, this comes off by pruing it off with a screwdriver. Inside that a retaning pin, take that out, then a nut cover, and nut with grooves in it from where you took out the pin. It is good to mark about where it was so when you put it together, you will not overtighten it.
Take that nut off, then you should be able to take off the whole assembly, bearings and all. If this is a sealed unit, you have to but a roter that will have the guts already inside it. make sure you clean off all of the old grease, you are going to replace critical parts, so you need new grease for them. Also make sure your spildle is not grooved, if so haw bad, you might replace it to if all gualled up.
on a sealed unit you just reverse the steps from taking it off.
if not you have to knock out the old races in the caliper, the one side by a wide screwdriver and hammer, there are pullers, but from the way it sounds, it is in there tight. Just be carefull not to kill the sides and rotate it around when doing this. once it is out, do the other side, find a socket that size, one thak will fit in the race almost to the edges and beat it out. now make sure the caliper is in a flat surface, and use a blanket or something toi avoid knicking the thing.
once both are out, just reverse the process, grease the inside just a bit and when you put the race in use a socket that is the size of the race, and beat it in evenly.grease your bearings, make sure you do one side at a time, and putting them back on the spindle is a cake walk compared to what you just have done.
hope this helps
Posted on May 26, 2009
I have a 1995 Geo Tracker 4WD with the same exact problem,However I did some research . You will need to go to the Kent Moore Website which makes specialty tools and look up Wheel bearing socket "J-37763" I saw the picture of it and it looks like there are 4 small rounded teeth/tabs. Unfortunately get ready to spend some money - cost is about $70.00 not including shipping/handling
I hope that this Info. helps - Jim H.
Posted on Jul 22, 2009
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