Hyundai Santa Fe battery dies after 2 days with no use
I took the car to two dealerships already, and both say the battery is fine and there are no draws.
Every time I leave the car in the garage for 2+ days the battery goes dead. I believe it's something I'm doing wrong. Reason:
1) When I shut down the car, the battery goes dead after 2+ days of use.
2) I just recently shipped the car, and the shipping company had it for 15 days in a container. After it arrived, 15 days later with no use, car was working fine, no dead battery.
3) I left it in one of the dealerships for 4+ days, they said they didn't turn it on, and also no problem - battery working fine.
So that's why I think I'm doing something wrong. It's nothing obvious like leaving a light on, or a door open - believe me, I checked. Is there another common problem, like the glove compartment light, battery sensitive to cold, or anything that might be draining the battery that I'm not aware about? I think I'm doing the same mistake over and over without even realizing it. What other common things (stupid) people like me do that might be draining the battery?
BTW, the year of the car is 2008 - but I couldn't find this option in the menu :)
Re: Hyundai Santa Fe battery dies after 2 days with no...
Hi, I have had similar intemittent dead\low battery problems with my 2008 CDX+.
The garage could never find anything wrong with the charging system, battery or drain. I bought a replacement battery, jump start power pack, battery tester and battery charger, in total costing hunders of pounds in an attempt to resolve the problem.
I was on the point of selling it when one day I heard the roof mounted DVD player making noises when I hadn't switched it on (I never switch it on). After disconnecting it the car started perfectly for months. After reconnecting it the issue came back, however I could never recreate the problem at the dealership as it was intermittent, and they had it for days. Eventually the DVD player took in a disc and refused to eject it. This was enough to have it replaced under warranty. Unfortunately the new one took about 4 months to come in and I have never recieved my disc back.
The new DVD player seems to have helped, however I can still report that in the 6 months or so since fitting I have had one of the new overhead bulbs blow and the battery has been dead on 2 occassions. The last occassion was yesterday and we had driven the car fine the day before.
I now carry the power pack in the car at all times, however as this is my wife's car she is concerned about being stranded with our new baby. My thoughts have once again turned to changing cars (new diesel auto crv 2010?) which is a shame as the Santa Fe ticks the boxes in so many other areas.
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert who has answered 20 questions.
An expert that has over 10 points.
An expert whose answer got voted for 2 times.
Re: Hyundai Santa Fe battery dies after 2 days with no...
Car is under waranty and is true dhat hyundai and kia hawe problem with electrical so i think problem is dreiwer seat heater or under seat weiring take back to diller and let him chek seat or underlot of peaple posted all ower internet same probllem
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You need to remove your positive connection at the battery first. Now you connect one end of test light to battery clamp, and the other to battery. Make sure they have good contact. Test light will light up anytime there is a draw. The brighter the light, the more draw there is. Start by removing one fuse at a time and watch for light to go out, or at least dim quite a bit, and leave it out & record which one it was. The ideal way to do it is to remove all fuses, making sure light is out completely, then start re-installing them and watch for one that light comes on bright. That will tell you which circuit is causing the excess draw. If you think that will get you in trouble, or confused, just pull one at a time and if no difference in light, put it back in. Just leave those that make light dimmer, out, making sure you note where they go. That way if you have 2 or 3 with slight draw, (like radio, clock etc.,) but 1 with big draw, then you can zero in on that circuit as the culprit. Take's a little time, but it works.
If the code has been a misfire in the same cylinder every time, the problem is very likely the ignition coil for that cylinder. When the ignition coil first starts to go, the malfunctions will be sporadic and therefore difficult to troubleshoot. The ignition coil can be tested for resistance on both primary and secondary windings in the coil to prove it is failing.
clean all connections very good ( batt post connectors,gound wire from batt to frame/motor, also clean starter connections,and alternator connections) I know pep boys checked but you cannot properly check a battery unless it has a full charge!!!!! If it wont accept a full charge then batt is bad, If it charges to a full charge and fails a draw test the batt is bad. also when a draw test is done you can have the charging system checked also to make sure batt is recieving the proper charge input. all inexpensive checks, get it running and take it to a garage, 3 min test usually not even a charge most of the time. NOT A DEALER, and have them show you what they are doing. if you are a female have a male friend go with you or have it done. I dont care what anybody says!!!!!! When it comes to a inexperienced female, the DEALERSHIP,the REPAIR GARAGES will all try to get some kind of MONEY out of you before you leave their place of business.
I am using a o6 yaris sprint and hanent had that,,so something is on so draining the bat=boot light.interier light switched on on roof panel ,check door switches,=door open press in and light should be off,radio left on, look along this path and you should find it it could be a duff battery which isnt holding the charge so draining
o2 sensors will put your check-engine-light on. it is attached to the exhaust (closest to the motor)and rusts-out sometimes. you could try to fix it by buying the o2 sensor and use a socket-set to see if it loosens. i 'm not a mechanic but have had the issue, in the past, with the jetta II's and a 1997.the guys at vw dealers are great with info, if your a hands-on kinda guy/girl. mike420
The easiest way to find the draw is to take a volt/ohm meter and remove the positive lead and connect the meter in series using the amp meter selection. By series, I mean hook the black meter lead to the battery, and the red meter lead to the battery cable.
Check your amp draw. (make sure you remove the bulb for your under hood light and everything off and closed. It should be milliamps.
If you have a more than several milli amps, start disconnecting fuses on at a time and put them back until you find the circuit that is drawing down the battery. Once you find the circuit, then it gets down to finding out whats shorted or bad in that circuit.