Question about 2000 Chevrolet Corvette

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New radiator caused transmission problems

I had a mech replace the radiator on my 2000 vet. I drove it off the lot and within 15 miles had to call them to come pick it up bk the transmission was acting up. They checked it out and the clutches are burnt up. They are claiming it is not there fault and expect me to fix the problem. The car has 100,000 miles on it and i never had any problems with the transmission.

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If the trans is not cooled buy the new rad because of blockage or not circulating the trans fluid correrctly it would burn up the clutches .Sounds like you might have a defect in your new rad or clogged lines

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

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My 2000 ford contour drives alittle way then then stops like in neutral


From your description, I will assume you have an automatic transmission. I will assume also that you have checked the fluid level on the transmission dipstick, and it's okay.
One possibility is that the transmission fluid cooler (built into the car's radiator) is clogged, causing the transmission fluid to overheat and the transmission itself to malfunction. This usually will also cause hard shifting when hot. If this is the case, the radiator would probably need to be replaced, the transmission completely drained and flushed,and filled with new fluid.
Anything else points to an internal fault in the transmission itself. This calls for a good transmission shop to remove, repair, and reinstall the trans.

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Oil light comes on and then car overheats


i just had changed the oil in my wifes 2.7 2000 260,000 mile concord.
i got a very unhappy phone call about oil light on and over heating .
shop wanted $750 to fix . i drove it home no light till about 15 minutes into drive. checked oil it didn't even regester .waited a few minutes oil was back. ended up being the pcv valve was pluged and line to it had
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I bought a 2003 Honda Odyssey from Napleton Honda dealer in Rockford, IL. However, the transmission was gone within 3 months ( I drove only 2000 miles). The dealer is not taking any responsibility because...


WELL I BEEN TO SEVERAL CAR LOTS.I SEEN AS IS NO WARRANTY VECHICLES.IF SOMETHING FAILS IN 30 DAYS THEY WILL FIX IT.BUT IF YOU BUY AS IS VECHICLE.BEST TO GET EXTENDED WARRANTY.

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Transmission shifts hard after driving for 15 to 20 miles.


There is a possibility the transmission is overheating, probably due to clogged cooling lines in the radiator. The transmission fluid is pumped through hoses to the radiator where it goes through cooling lines built into the radiator for this purpose. If the flow of transmission fluid through these lines is restricted, the transmission will overheat, and rough/hard shifting will result. Unless you are experienced at this sort of thing, I would recommend you take the car to a good shop to get this checked out. At the very least, you will have to have the radiator replaced. At worst, you might have to replace or rebuild the transmission.

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Battery draining completely within 15 miles of driving


I had the same problem on my NEW Forester, dealer told me to check the litttle switch set far down on the top of the steering column. I had accidently turned it on while cleaning the car. It turns on some tiny lights that are used more in Japan and not easily noticed unless you are looking for them. Sure enough, that is what caused my battery to drain multiple times.

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3 Answers

Overheating


Going through the same thing with my 2000 2.7 l intrepid.

Thermostat, water pump, plugged radiator, blown head gasket? I tinker with autos, but on a very basic level.

My story and course of action (that you may be able to glean some ideas from)
I live in NW Indiana, and was on vacation on ease coast. Noticed water/antifreeze leaking from vehicle in a New Jersey Rest stop. Don't believe car was overheating at the time, but possible that I drove the car for up to a mile in this state.

Had vehicle towed to a local garage (Friday afternoon, so thought garage and not dealer was best option for geting back on the road asap).

Garage diagnosed water pump, and replaced it ($750 US). Said there was some antifreeze in oil, so engine flushed oil system, coolant, replaced oil filter, and refilled oil and coolant.

Car operated fine for 1 week of pretty hard driving (both local and highway driving, and then rather large hills in Maine). Then on way home, near Erie PA, car overheated on Toolway. Noticed overheating pretty quickly, within 1/2 mile.

Towed off of tollway, where refilled Coolant (added about a quart). Drove car around local town for 10 - 15 minutes, with no problems. No sweet smell from tailpipe (that would indicate possible head gasket leak), no antifreeze apparent on oil dipstick, and no visible coolant leak on or under engine, so drove on US 20 into Erie, going both 35 mph ;local, and 55 mph between-town driving. No problems. Stopped at place to eat in Erie, gave car a chance to cool down to check coolant levels. No leaks (external anyways) and coolant level where I left it.

Started again, and after approx. 3 - 4 miles of driving, car overheated (almost instantaneous going from normal temp to overheating (noticed it within a block). Overheated 1 block from Dodge dealer on Sun. afternoon. Let car cool down, ensured coolant full, and drove to hotel 2 miles away for night (no problems with overheating, but car may not have gotten back up to temp in those 2 miles- was approx 65 Deg Far ambient. Noticed that when the car does "act up" and heads for overheating, the vents blow cold, even though set for high heat.

Got to Dodge dealer the next morning. Dealer said no external leaks, and no mixing of oil and antifreeze (mixing could indicate blown head gasket). Diagnosed thermostat ($340 for parts and labor), and would be fixed in 3.5 hours. 8 hours later, dealer said finally had thermostat changed, but still overheating. Would try to reblead air out of the cooling system (air or air pockets in the system could cause overheating). Still no luck - car was overheating. So dealer said next thought would be partially plugged radiator. Plan- next morning, send radiator out for testing.

Well, radiator was sent out, and some gunk was found and cleaned from radiator
($225 US), but dealer said was not enough to be causing the problems I was getting. Next guess was to check the water pump, at $700 -$800 labor to see if it was defective. Dealer said, but I have not confirmed, that car would idle fine for unlimited time without overheating, but when took out for drive, it would overheat. The cooling fan was functioning properly.

Well, at that stage, decided to just tow car home, and fix there so I rented UHAUL truck and tow dolly ($350 US), plus the gas such a vehicle consumes.

Take to NW Indiana garage, and they say,

check water pump to see if defective ($650), replace water pump if defective, and if not defective, pull heads to inspect for blown head gasket (an additional $450 labor). Said exhause gases could be internally leaking into the coolant (because bad head gasket) and causing the car to overheat. Said may consider just putting in a used engine- may be cheaper. Well I know the previous owner, and the car was maticulously kept, so I say I need to think it over. Drove car home (about 2 miles) and coolant temp gage didn't budge an inch- coolant level was fine, so who knows what happened to it...

Checked from garage that replaced the water pump, and said it was a dealership new waterpump that was installed, with all new gaskets, and did NOT replace timing chain.

Go and talk to dad (aren't dad's great!). Dad has rebuild many motors in his day- was a millright who completly rebuilt from scratch Model A's , 1940's sedans, and some cars in the 1970s and 1980s. Successfully rebuilt 2 automatic transmissions in the 70s and 80s as well. Dad's getting up in age (mid seventies) so didn't want to burdeon him, just wanted his input. He said, consider water pump, but he seemed to remember a test you could do on the coolant to check for exhaust gases. After trips to 4 local Auto parts stores (some "fake" ones like Autozone, and a couple real ones), found a guy who knew of the test, and ordered one for me. So, for $40, hopefully will be able to see if there are exhaust gases in the coolant, indicating a blown head gasket.

Will have to make some decisions based on test results. Have about $1600 or so in car already. May try to do work myself- who knows!

Just trying to explain my overheating issues, and giving some insight into potential causes, and remedies that were explored in my case so they may be of help with you.

Sep 25, 2008 | 1997 Dodge Intrepid

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